leow

I shoot a pse laser magnum express produced in the early 90's. I shoot 2117 arrows with my 31-32 inch draw topped with 125 3 blade muzzy. I don't use sights and am starting to get tired of insitnctive shooting. The old man doesn't belive in sights or all the new stuff so i'm alittle lost when it comes to the new bows and sights,rests,carbon arrows, etc... the main question is if i stayed shooting this bow could i go to carbon arrows to increase speed. what size should i use. i think 400. My draw weight is 55-65 depending on time of year. I'm really looking for a new bow though. i want something that will shoot 20-25 yards quickly and flat. The bow i got now shoots great at 15, but after that the deer can move alot. Any bows you would suggest to a finger shooter without sights, but will work good with sights also if that's what i decide to do.

Arthur P

Any compound will work good with or without sights. Most of today's bows are much shorter than what you're used to, so that could be a problem for you. At your draw length, you really need to stayover 40" axle to axle or it's likelyyou'll have to change from a 3-finger release to a 2-finger release. Try to avoid the high letoff bows and go with 65% letoff.

Martin makes three bows that I'd suggest taking a peek at. The Cougar Elite, RazorX Elite and the Shadowcat Elite, all 40" or over with Nitrous cams.

Also, I seriously doubt the 400 spine range arrows will be stiff enough for you. Especially with modern cams and fingers release. I'd go to 340's.

BF1947

First I have to ask how big you are. What is your wingspan? You say your drawlength is 31-32 inches. Well, which is it. It's not either/or. To have anything close to a 32" drawlength you'd have to have a wingspan of about 78", assuming you're shooting fingers; 80" if you plan to shoot a release. Measure your wingspan and divide it by 2.5 to get close. If you will shoot fingers then add an inch to this.

Now that this is done let's figure out some bows. Without naming particular bows you want something with at least 38" axle to axle (A2A) length; preferably longer. A brace height of at least 7" and closer to 8" is even better. A bow that peaks at 60# is plenty for any whitetail or other animal walking this continent, and is more in line with what you are shooting now.

You can go to a shop to look at some bows and/or check some manufacturers" websites to see what they offer. Then go to the shop and see what they have. Don't be surprised if you don't find many longer bows. The latest rage is short and light, which isn't the best IMO.

Check out www.Martinarchery.com

Carbon arrows will definitely help you pick up some added speed, possibly as much as 30fps. There is nothing wrong with using some of the gadgets (sight and such). Regardless of what some may think archery and bowhunting in particular is not a GAME. If something such as a sight and stabilizer can help you shoot more accurately then so be it. You owe it to the animals you hunt to be as accurate as you can be. Believe me, there are very few people who can shoot instinctively with any consistency, and those that can either do a lot of practicing or just have a knack for it.

Lastly, if deer are jumping the string on you it's not because your bow is slow. It's because your bow is noisy. They react to the noise by preloading their leg muscles to run. This makes them drop to go. Get the bow more quiet than it is.

Anymore questions?

leow

thanks. My spread from finger tip to finger tip was 72. i measured my bow axle to axle and it was 49''. i went to a bow shop this summer and he said my draw length was 31.5''. this bow is really weird. I've never seen a bow with a 33'' draw. i'm 6ft 200 so i'm not small by any standard. My old man was one of those people that could hitanything instinctively, with the same bow i'm using today. At 25 yards he couldbreak nocks consistantly. I know it's not the bows fault, so i think i'm going to go with sights. i had shots at many deer this year, includingnice bucks, but was so afraid to shoot and wound the deer. This was the second year i've passed on really easy shots.

Arthur P

Instinctive shooting is all about confidence. For that matter, so is shooting with sights, but even moreso with instinctive. If you think you might miss, you will miss. So you were totally right to pass on those shots.

If you get a new bow, try shooting it for a week or two without the sights before jumping onto the sights bandwagon. The flatter trajectorymight make it just as easy for youto bust nocks at30 yards as it is at 15 with your current bow.

I don't know how you shoot, but if you shoot split finger, I highly recommend trying 3-under. Anchor with the middle finger to get the arrow up closer to your eye and gunbarrel down the shaft to aim. You'd be amazed at how accurate you can be like that from 30 yards and under.

Paul L Mohr

The shop said YOUR draw length was 31.5 inches, or the bow was set to that length. There is a difference. If you are shooting your dad's bow chances are it doesn't fit you. Compound bows are fairly individual things in how they fit the archer.

If you want to try some sights go get yourself some cheap 3 pin fiber optics and slap them on your bow. Then sight it in. Just anchor the same way you did and set the pins at the distances you want them. Most use 20,30, and 40. I wouldn't bother with a peep if you have been shooting instinctively and do pretty well. I doubt you will need one unless you want to target shoot.

If it's possible post of pic of you drawing your bow and someone will let you you know if your bow is way to long or not.

Paul

leow

i know that bow is too big. It's old and the draw length is not ajustable. the 33 inches of draw is alot for anyone. i'm looking at buying a new bow after after this spring turkey season. i'm looking at the reflex excursion, or the reflex grizzly. The grizzly has a short brace height, but it has an axle length of 38. the excursion has an 8 inch brace height, but short axle to axle. i would like to keep shooting instinctive, but i know i need a new bow that fits well. I drew the excursion a while back and fell in love. i got my draw length from one of those small recurve bows with the long arrow marked in inches.

BigJ71

If your wing span is 72in you should be at about a 28-29in draw length. I would get to a good pro shop and get measured. Have fun and pick out a bow you like and feels good to you.

BF1947

Draw length, draw length, draw length; the first consideration and most important about a compound bow. If you can't get it right then nothing else about the bow matters. Listen to these guys.

BigJ12 is pretty close. You should probably be 28-29", 29" being max unless you got arms like a monkey. Here's is the big rub about going to a "good" proshop---how do you know when you've found one? Especially if you're rather new to archery.

The answer is not all that hard. We just told you the numbers you should be looking for. The other thing to look for is a bow that can be adjusted for draw. Some use modules that change 1" at a time. Others have a rotating module that may cover 3-6", depending on the bow. Martin, Hoyt, and Browning are a couple I can pull of the top of my head.

C'mon guys. There are some others.

JOE PA

Not sure, but your draw length is probably shorter than 31.5" If you want to keep shooting with fingers, but want a bow that gives you some performance and speed, I would suggest you look at a Darton Tundra. They are 40" ATA, 7.5" brace, yet shoot at 312 IBO. You will be shooting heavier arrows than that for hunting, but will still get good performance. Mine is set at 61# and 29.5" draw, and it's putting 415 gr. arrows out at 265 fps. If you are on a budget, I would think the PSE Dakota would do all right. They are 41" ATA, 7" brace, and 303 IBO speed, for aroung $250 new.