D.Parsons

The point Mr Ranch is if you have ever had bowhunter's class
you should know you should never take a Qutering too shot!
There is to much bone in the way and even if you do get the
shot placement right the quatering to shot make's the arrow
exit thru the guts.Un less it is placed at the base of the neck there is no shot!aNY BROADHEAD which exits thru the guts will have gut's pluging the lower hole! Every pack of new replacement blades i get for the muzzy's
have shaven the hair off my arm. If they won't don't hunt with them.
I still did not get the head's you prefer out of all that ink!

BobCo19-65

Yes, we agree. If you want an authority on how heads do slice through an animal, I would point you to Dr. Asby's studies. Most of his findings show two bladed, single side sharpened (like a razor blade) grizzly's go throughgame about the best. His studies are based on actual game. I also agree that I can getMuzzy bladessharper on my own then whatare out of the packet.

They are one tough reliable head though that will probably not fail mechanicallyif heavy bone is encountered (as shown by the cast iron test). It seems they are one of the standard headsto rate other heads by (just ask 5-shot). Can't go wrong with them.

Iwould disagree withyou though about the CORRELATION of blade sharpness and and having intestines plug up the hole.
First, because of the location in the anatomy ofdeer, I would see no logical reason to purposely put an arrow through the intestines evenon quartering shots. Intestines are located behind the stomach and are in the back half of the deer. Ifthe deer is quartered away too severely, you will not be able to take out both lungs (and hit intestines). Quartering to, head on,rear shots should not be taken.
Second, if a deer is hit through the intestines or stomach, it is very common to have the holes plugged. But this does not neccessarily happen exactly at the shot. It happens more from the deer moving/running/walking and working the matter through the hole. Or from the inerts moving inside the animal, not lining up the wounds of the stomach/intestine and the exit wound. This is a common reason of a great blood trail to start becoming sparse.

ranchand99

WHEW SOME real diehard muzzy shooters here![8D]
Gimp you're right,but when I was a beginner I didn't know any better.I wouldn't expect any other beginner to know any better either.When 99% of newcomers buy broadheads they screw them on,and go shooting,so with that in mind I recommend heads that are already sharp.As much as there is to learn with archery....I'm sure we want them to have to also learn how to properly sharpen blades.I say if you want to sharpen blades you make that decision when you feel like you are ready to take it to that level.As much as broadheads cost nowadays they should be sharp from the factory.That's just like saying you would like to buy a new truck,but you'll put the motor,and transmissionin yourself.It's a package bro,It should be ready to go out the box.

Soilarch,You have a nice theory,but ponder this.....GenerallyI doshoot heads around 1 3/16"-1 1/2".I have never shot a broadhead under 1 1/8" diameter.Whichis a smaller diameter than the vanes..BUT those RM ti's slice all the way through.[:-]So,broadhead diameter being smaller than vane diameter has nothing to do with it.IMHO.It is the sharpness.Some of the heads that have gut pulled have 1 3/16"-1 1/2" diameter.

Again...
Thunderheads...cut...1 3/16"
RM ti'...cut...1 1/8"
snyper..cut...1 3/8"

shockwave..no cut..1 1/4"
rocket steelhead 125..no cut...1 1/4"
muzzy..no cut..1 3/16"

I was more disappointed in the shockwave than the others.NAP makes awesome blades,but what it comes down to is the grade.It is knife grade..where as thunderheads,and spitfires are diamized..surgical steel.

Finally Mr.Parsons,You're exactly right!I have never had bowhunters class.There's no such thing here.I am self taught.I learned by reading books,and looking at anatomy charts.I know where to place my shots.Did you know you can spine a hog,by hitting him a hair high in the center of the shoulder?It's because his head is so low to the chest cavity.Sir...you can make a double lung hit,and still come out bad.You may only clip the back of the off side lung,but you can do it.

I have said before,and will say again.I have had certain brands that are sharp,and cut all the way through without pulling intestines on 1/4 to shots.I have over 160 hog and deer kills to date.1/3 of them being with bow.I am not a rookie.I have cleaned in excess of 200 animals.I know the anatomy of my quarry.

I will tell you a deer may not look quartering,but may very well be,and have had my share of deer move upon release.I have had them turn towardsme to run when the feelthe arrowentering their body.

Since you asked my preferences I will tell you..

Fixed..Rocky Mountain Titanium 100gr,Thunderhead 100gr
Mech...Rocky Mountain Snyper

They all are sharp out of the package.They will not let you down.They will cut all the way through.They all fly consistantly,however I would recommend the Ti's for bows over 260fps.The smaller 85gr thunderheads fly very well with fast bows,so I have been told.I have not tried them yet.As you know,smaller diameter heads fly better at faster speeds.It's been fun.

A final question..Are you trying to convince me or yourself?

walks with a gimp

To answer the original question again, I'll state that Muzzy 100 grainers are good heads

BobCo19-65

ranchand99, I'm really not sure you know what you are talking about concerning shot placement and heads being the sole culprit ofpulling intestines out exit wholes. That may be a good topic to start though.

Although I can get the Muzzy's sharper then what the come out of the package, IMO they are still plenty sharp and I wouldn't worry at all with hunting with them (out of the pack).

ranchand99

Muzzys are good heads.I have seen better,and worse.[8D]I love how you guys are so diehard for your equipment choices.No hard feelings right?

BobCo19-65

Of course not (hard feeling), and FWIW, I do respect your opinion on the head. What I guess I questioned more were other coments made.

Best of luck with whatever head you feel confortable and confident with, that's what it's really all about.

walks with a gimp

It's just that I have about1 1/2dozen of the Muzzys between the wife and I in our case and on hunting arrows that get used over and over and over in the last 10 years or so. That's a good thing about the Muzzys, you don't need to buy more unless you loose some

To sharpen them better than factory only takes a Lansky and a minute or two for each head. Then you KNOW that it will cut like a surgeon's instrument. The Slick Trick heads I bought to try out weren't sharp at all by my standards but they were after I got done with them. The ST's shoot the same as my field points though, probably better than the Muzzys

ranchand99

OK guys I'll quit messin' with ya'll.You seem like some good guys.Gimp there are some heads that I really like,but they are not sharp worth a toot out the package.I love the design of the shockwave,but the baldes are dull.Won't even cut paper.I was disappointed with them,because of what I have come to expect from NAP after using the thunderheads.

Don't you guys agree almost all new hunters usually take them out of the package screw them on,and then shoot at an animal?

Arthur P

Sad but true, I'm afraid. [&o]Bowhunter education still has a LOT of work to do. Even then, there arepeople out in the woods that have been through bowhunter ed and just ignoreeverything they were taught. They shouldn't be let out of the house without a leash and handler.[>:]

I very much prefer the old standby's, Magnus and Zwickey, that you HAVE to sharpen before you go hunting with them. Over the years, it's just gotten to be part of my pre-huntritual, sitting down the night before hunting with a glass of wine, a file and a honing stone.It relaxes me so I MIGHT can get to sleep when I go to bed.

But, for replaceable blade heads, I like Muzzy a LOT better than Thunderheads for a couple of reasons.

I don't like broadheads that fall apart in my hands when I unscrew them from the arrow.Makes me think they might not hold together when they hit a deer, especially if the tip has vibrated loose.Muzzy's don't fall apart. T'heads do.I know, I know....T'heads have killed all kinds of critters reliably for many years. Still, I can't use something I don't have COMPLETE faith in and I've always got that nagging little doubt about T'heads.

I like honing the Muzzy Trocar tip to a razor edge, which turns it into a cut on contact broadhead. That T'head point is just a cone with a few small facets ground into it. It's strictly a punch point. Slice vs punch. I go for the slice.

Yeah, the T'heads are almost always sharper out of the packagethan the Muzzy's but, while I'm honing that tip, it's no biggie todress up the edges of the blades witha swipe or two of the diamond hone at the same time.

Muzzys aren't perfect but they are a darn good head.