Centre shot
10-22-2005, 09:26 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4
Centre shot
Howdy all,
I assume this is all correct,
To find the center shot, take a piece of masking tape and place it just above where the limb meets the riser. Measure the limb and place a small mark at the center of the limb. Make another mark 3/16" inch to the left of center, and then do the same for the next limb. With the arrow on the rest, line up your string along the marks. When the string is aligned with the marks it should bisect the center of the arrow shaft if it does not adjust your rest accordingly.Then move the arrow to adjust? My problem with this is,the string is centered on the top limb with a pulley but on the bottom limb it is off center a little because the way the cam is made. The cam lays to the left of center.How do I do this.
Thanks all
I assume this is all correct,
To find the center shot, take a piece of masking tape and place it just above where the limb meets the riser. Measure the limb and place a small mark at the center of the limb. Make another mark 3/16" inch to the left of center, and then do the same for the next limb. With the arrow on the rest, line up your string along the marks. When the string is aligned with the marks it should bisect the center of the arrow shaft if it does not adjust your rest accordingly.Then move the arrow to adjust? My problem with this is,the string is centered on the top limb with a pulley but on the bottom limb it is off center a little because the way the cam is made. The cam lays to the left of center.How do I do this.
Thanks all
10-22-2005, 11:40 PM
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
RE: Centre shot
No.
Most all bows have the string off center on one limb or both as you noticed. Some companies compensate for this by machining thier risers offset or like Mathews does hang their limb off to one side of the riser more than the other.
If you want to find the true centershot then you need to get one of the many different tools made for this task.
Another way to do it is to if you got a yard stick, or any other long straight edge, place it on the side of the riser (where the accessories attach) and measure the distance from the stick to the arrow at the string and then adjust until the point of the arrow measures the same.
Yet another way is to just eyeball it. Nock an arrow and looking from the rear align the string of the top limb so it bisects the center of the limb right where the two tips come together to form the solid part of the limb. Adjust the rest so that the string, center of the top limb at the top, and the tip end of the arrow are all aligned.
Actually if you are right handed it is good to go ahead and have the arrow pointing slightly left of center (looking from the rear) because you are almost guaranteed to torque the bow to the right a bit.
Most all bows have the string off center on one limb or both as you noticed. Some companies compensate for this by machining thier risers offset or like Mathews does hang their limb off to one side of the riser more than the other.
If you want to find the true centershot then you need to get one of the many different tools made for this task.
Another way to do it is to if you got a yard stick, or any other long straight edge, place it on the side of the riser (where the accessories attach) and measure the distance from the stick to the arrow at the string and then adjust until the point of the arrow measures the same.
Yet another way is to just eyeball it. Nock an arrow and looking from the rear align the string of the top limb so it bisects the center of the limb right where the two tips come together to form the solid part of the limb. Adjust the rest so that the string, center of the top limb at the top, and the tip end of the arrow are all aligned.
Actually if you are right handed it is good to go ahead and have the arrow pointing slightly left of center (looking from the rear) because you are almost guaranteed to torque the bow to the right a bit.
10-23-2005, 06:45 AM
#3
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,981
RE: Centre shot
i agree. i think its good to have a close starting pt, and then walk back tune your bow to find your center shot. depending on how appropriate your arrows are for your bow, and how proper your grip and release are will go a long way in determining how close to center you actually need your rest.
10-23-2005, 08:28 AM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cornwall, Pa.
Posts: 1,720
RE: Centre shot
Probably the best way to find center shot is to bare shaft tune your bow with the arrows and tip weight you intend to shoot. Many of the tools offered to find center shot do so when the bow is relaxed. This can establish a rough center shot, but when the bow is at full draw many factors take place that will alter the center shot established when relaxed. Limb twist, cam tilt and riser movement will alter the reference you had at rest with the center shot location at full draw. Take your time and bare shaft tune. This will establish a true center shot with the arrow and tip combination you choose.
Good Hunting…
Good Hunting…
10-23-2005, 08:49 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,175
RE: Centre shot
what is the best way to bare shaft? do you shoot through paper at a certain distance. do you use the same arrow to shoot each time to keep consistancy the same? i use the tool that goes in the limb allen screws with the rubber tubes attached. i was told single cam bows that using the measure off the riser method isint good.
10-23-2005, 06:52 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cornwall, Pa.
Posts: 1,720
RE: Centre shot
There is a very good reference on bare shaft tuning on Easton’s web page. The basics of bare shaft tuning is to shoot a fletched arrow at say 15 yards to start then shoot a straight arrow with no fletching at the same target. When the bare shaft impacts inline and just below the fletched arrow, you’re sided to side, or center shot and nock set/rest height are also established.
10-23-2005, 07:34 PM
#7
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
RE: Centre shot
Bare shaft tuning or any other tuning has absolutely nothig to do with a bows center shot. A bow has a dead center spot and that's it, period.
Now when you indtroduce the human factor to the bow, the place, left or right of center, that you get the best tune will almost always change. This is because every person holds and anchors differently and almost no one holds a bow perfectly straight. We all torque the bow to some degree. However, the bows center shot position has not changed. It is and always be in the same place. You just have to determine how far left or right of that spot that you shoot the best.
Bare shaft tuning comes after you set center shot to get a starting point.
The tool that you describe that attaches to the limb bolts is definetly not the best tool to use if you want to find the absolute dead center position. AS you stated originally the cams are not center of the limbs.
Easy Eyes (same people that make the arow wraps) makes a laser that you attach to your riser. Line up the laser with the string at the nock and then twist it to align the laserwith the tip of your arrow. This is the most accurate tool made for finding center shot but it will cost you.
Golden Key makes a simple but effective tool called the TRU CENTER GAUGE.
Now when you indtroduce the human factor to the bow, the place, left or right of center, that you get the best tune will almost always change. This is because every person holds and anchors differently and almost no one holds a bow perfectly straight. We all torque the bow to some degree. However, the bows center shot position has not changed. It is and always be in the same place. You just have to determine how far left or right of that spot that you shoot the best.
Bare shaft tuning comes after you set center shot to get a starting point.
The tool that you describe that attaches to the limb bolts is definetly not the best tool to use if you want to find the absolute dead center position. AS you stated originally the cams are not center of the limbs.
Easy Eyes (same people that make the arow wraps) makes a laser that you attach to your riser. Line up the laser with the string at the nock and then twist it to align the laserwith the tip of your arrow. This is the most accurate tool made for finding center shot but it will cost you.
Golden Key makes a simple but effective tool called the TRU CENTER GAUGE.
10-25-2005, 10:47 AM
#8
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location:
Posts: 289
RE: Centre shot
You can rock the bow backward and forward and see if the arrow lines up with the bowsrting and the cams and get just as close to center as any of the so called tools will get you.
But the optimum position for the windage of an arrowrest is not always going to be in the centerline of the bow at rest.
There will always be variable of draw weight, cable guard tension, and arrow spine just to name a few.
The correct position for any rest should be determined by shooting the correct spine arrow for the bow at 10-20-30yards. When the arrows all hit the same vertical line at all distances its set right.
This isn't rocket science.
The lazers and fancy tools are good for getting people out of the shop as rapidly as possible but they are not the best way to set windage.
Good luck hunting! >>>------------>
But the optimum position for the windage of an arrowrest is not always going to be in the centerline of the bow at rest.
There will always be variable of draw weight, cable guard tension, and arrow spine just to name a few.
The correct position for any rest should be determined by shooting the correct spine arrow for the bow at 10-20-30yards. When the arrows all hit the same vertical line at all distances its set right.
This isn't rocket science.
The lazers and fancy tools are good for getting people out of the shop as rapidly as possible but they are not the best way to set windage.
Good luck hunting! >>>------------>
10-25-2005, 11:27 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 7,571
RE: Centre shot
Here is a way to find the centershot without taking the bow in and having it set with a laser. You'll need two (it's easier with two) small levels. You will also need to support both ends of your bow limbs and let the riser hang freely. I use a press, but you don't need one. Next, get an arrow and put the heaviest point that you have on it. I use a 185 grain head. Now make sure that the riser is perpendicular to the floor. Check with the levels on a few different points. Most of the times I will use the point where the limbs (back) connect to the riser.Connect the arrow to your nock and let it hang freely. Move your rest appropriately. This is the centershot of your bow (or very close to it) at rest. This is a great starting point for tuning. Also, make sure that the arrowlines upto the arrow rest wholes drilled in the riser for the up/down alignment. If your bow has two wholes, I'd draw a line between the two right across the riser.
