Easton Guide after paper tuning???
09-06-2005, 06:48 PM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Norman OK USA
Posts: 3,318
Easton Guide after paper tuning???
This is how I see it. If I paper tune and get bullet holes, then adjust using the easton method, isn't that counter productive? Just my thoughts, what do you think?
09-08-2005, 08:06 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
RE: Easton Guide after paper tuning???
It depends. Paper tuning is to see how the arrow is leaving the bow, and passing through the peper at that particular distance. You should actually shoot through paper at several different distances. I usually figure 3', 10' and about 15'. This tells you if your arrow is still flying true a little farther down range. You may have other issues such as arrow spine, FOC problems that don't show up till the arrow is farther down range. If you are tuning with broadheads you need to see if they are aligned with the shaft or the fletching is doing it's job steering the arrow. These things don't show up shooting through paper at close range. And make no mistake about it, downrange is where the action is whether it be hunting, 3D or target shooting.
Paper tuning is a starting place. Bare shaft, walkback or other methods are a better indicator of what the arrow will do downrange.
Paper tuning is a starting place. Bare shaft, walkback or other methods are a better indicator of what the arrow will do downrange.
09-08-2005, 11:51 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Too close to Chicago
Posts: 3,337
RE: Easton Guide after paper tuning???
Yep.
Paper is a good start, but this year I've found that shooting bareshafts and tuning with broadheads can really show you small errors that can affect flight in a big way. Theycan iron out all the wrinkles you'd never even know were there if you stopped tuning after paper.
With perfect bullet holes in paper, my bare shafts were hitting almost a foot off at 30 yards. Fletched fixed blade broadheads did better, but were still off several inches at the same distance, and were inconsistent.
After playing with several settings and making many small changes, I finally got it dialed in just perfect last night as the sun slipped over the horizon. I'm amazed at how the tiniest of adjusments can make of break your arrow flight and group size. My final adjustment was 1/4 turn of my limb bolts, and BAM! the change was immediate. Suddenly the bare shafts stopped planing, and the broadheads were hitting a 2 inch target at 30 yards. YES! Even my field points were tighter. It all makes a difference.
You can't change anything without it affecting something else, and the key to fixing problems is in being aware they exist. That means using more than one method ot verify that things are just right.
Paper is a good start, but this year I've found that shooting bareshafts and tuning with broadheads can really show you small errors that can affect flight in a big way. Theycan iron out all the wrinkles you'd never even know were there if you stopped tuning after paper.
With perfect bullet holes in paper, my bare shafts were hitting almost a foot off at 30 yards. Fletched fixed blade broadheads did better, but were still off several inches at the same distance, and were inconsistent.
After playing with several settings and making many small changes, I finally got it dialed in just perfect last night as the sun slipped over the horizon. I'm amazed at how the tiniest of adjusments can make of break your arrow flight and group size. My final adjustment was 1/4 turn of my limb bolts, and BAM! the change was immediate. Suddenly the bare shafts stopped planing, and the broadheads were hitting a 2 inch target at 30 yards. YES! Even my field points were tighter. It all makes a difference.
You can't change anything without it affecting something else, and the key to fixing problems is in being aware they exist. That means using more than one method ot verify that things are just right.
