marmax

I have a 04 patriot at 74#. It likes the 3-blade muzzy for some reason. I like the 4-blade but the Patriot prefers the 3-blade. I'm using XX78's and a trophy taker rest. When I do my part they all hit the mark.

Kraton

Well not much help from the pro shop, I guess I am the minority on this being all the newer Patriots have no problems. He says I need to keep trying different broad heads and wants to sell me a drop away. Now I am all for a drop away but all he will push is the Trophy taker. ( I'll have to do my research on that one)

I don't know , I don't have money to just buy 10 different packages of broad heads and hope i find one that flies. think I will lean towards a drop away and tune from there. maybe my limbs will break AGAIN and I can get a new bow..LOL

gibblet

man, dot that thing in at 20 yards with your broadhead of choice. then go back to 30 and use your 20 pin and aim at a dot near the top of your target. if your arrows are going left of what you're aiming at move your arrow rest a little right, or vice versa if they are going right. then go back to 20 and dot it in again by moving only your sight. then back to thirty. when they are falling directly below what you're aiming at you'll have found your center shot. then shoot a horizontal line across your target from 20 yards. if all the arrows are within 1" of that line, great - you're done. if not put 1/8 turn in your bottom limb bolt and try it again. if it fixes it - you're done. if it gets worse then take that 1/8 turn out and take an extra 1/8 turn out of you bottom limb. that should do it. it could take up to 1/4 turn, but when you're shooting a good horizontal line you're done. after that your broadheads will be flying great - except they are very sensitive to mistakes during the shot process and wind. who cares if they are a couple inches off from your field pts? i don't. what you want is your broadhead tuned to you, and that's how to do it.

JeffB

Mine were 2002 models (and technically should have been a bit harder to tune than latter models)

You could do *far* worse than a TT drop away. Excellent rest.

BTW, also check for idler lean and adjust your split harness if neccessary.

Kraton

Jeff, could you elaborate on that????

JeffB

OK here's a laundry list of things to do

1) Make sure your cam timing is correct. If you are shooting with the poundage baacked off this can make broadhead tuning more difficult with a single cam bow that has less than optimal nock travel ( I don't know what year your PAT is, but the 2003/2004/5 models are better for nock travel than the 2002s). It's not impossible however.

2) Idler lean.2 schools of thought. Some folks want the string to track straight off the idler at rest. Others want it tracking straight at full draw. IF the string is coming off at an angle you can adjust either side of the split harness to to bring things back in line. I set the idler at rest, not at full draw

3) Arrows. Your spine seems OK. I don't think you would have an issue. Make sure you are shooting with plenty of helical (not offset) fletch. If you must use an offset to get it clear your nondropaway, then use a BIG fletch. 5" feathers or vanes. At the speeds you are shooting, you need all the stabilization you can get.

4) More arrows. Make sure you have STRAIGHT arrows. Carbon arrows are RARELY straight enough for great accuracy with fixed blades at high speeds unless you are using the premium super straight shafts.

5) Even more arrow stuff: Inserts. They MUST be in straight. At those speeds there cannot be ANY wobble of the broadhead. Use a tool like the Montec thing or the "Sand stone" from Easton ST Axis arrows to ensure the shaft is squared off properly. It also helps to do this on the nock end.

6) Make sure you are shooting a loop, and not off the string.

7) I would really recommend the drop away. This way you can some serious helical on the arrows. If you go that route, contray to what you might think, you want the rest to stay up for quite a aways instead f dropping instantly.Becauseof the nock travel, the arrow i pushed down and then back up If the rest drops too quick this causes all kinds of havoc..as the arrow crashes down....it needs a bit more guidance/direction.

As I said, at 290 FPS on a single cam with some nock travel, and shooting fixed blade heads there is NO margin for error in tuning or shooting form. Personally with that kind of energy and at those speeds I would shoot a mechanical to add some forgiveness when actually hunting and things are not perfect.However you still need toget the arrow flght and arrow issues solved first, as a poor flying mech is bad news, no matter how much speed & energy is involved.

Exact details of your setup would help.

Kraton

Thanks.

DaveC

Jeffb, you are a plethora of knowledge!

And just to think all of that savy was going to go to waist[&:].

I think this post may have helped me nail down an issue I've been having, thanks!

JeffB

Nah..thats the gravy going to my waist!

ijimmy

OOP'S , I ment to say 360s , glad you caught it jeff , I forgot about that with the ce arrows , the number not corrolating to spine . I used to shoot a patriot single , the first year they came out , nice bow , and it did stack fixed heads with fieldpoints . I shot magnus 100 grain heads , and 4" feathers on an offset , could not get muzzys to fly with that particular setup .