H80Hunter

Shooting a Bear TRX at 67#, 29 inch draw shooting Gold Tip XT Hunters 5575 with 100 grain tips. Also, I use a whisker biscuit rest...

First of all, can anyone give me some good advice on correcting these multiple problems? I have a loop tied on and everything is set so I can move the rest slightly to adjust for the slight high tear, right? Also, I can shoot a lighter point to effectively stiffen the spine right?

H80Hunter

I tinkered around with the rest, and focused on my grip and am now getting consistent bullet holes from 2-7 yards. I will leave well enough alone. But for the experts, please tell me, my grip could produce a left tear couldnt it? I am not experiencing a fluke am I?

Paul L Mohr

How do you know there is anything wrong with it? Some tune for that exact result as a matter of fact. You don't have to have a bullet hole in order to have a good tune. Paper tuning is a very basic method of tuning and just the first in the list. I don't even bother with it half the time. You can eyeball things and get pretty close usually.

I would not put alot of effort into getting perfect bullet holes when you are just going to refine the tuning more by either group tuning, bare shaft tuning or broad head tuning. I would leave it where it is and see how it shoots, a half inch tear is nothing really.

Try some bareshaft tuning or start tuning with broad heads if you are going to use them and touch things up from there.

What model TRX do you shoot? The longer ATA bow shows those arrows as being fairly good on spine, but the 32 inch model (TRX32 perimeter quad) shows them being weak. That would make a difference on how easy it would be to tune.

Download eastons tuning guide and look thru it. I would move on to the next step of tuning and follow what it says to do. Let us know what happens.

Paul

BobCo19-65

Absolutely.

Paul L Mohr

Well you typed your own response while I was typing. I had to take a few phone calls while doing it, so it took me a while.

Yes grip can cause problems paper tuning, or with any kind of tuning actually. Usually it show up as left or right problems but could possibly show up as up and down as well. You can't tune any better then you can shoot. Most people don't shoot well enough to tune a bow as well as they think it should be.

In my opinion shooting thru paper is a good way to check your form or if you have contact issues. That is why someone else can not tune your bow for you. They might be able to get it close, but in the end you are tuning the bow to your shooting style and arrow.

Paul

H80Hunter

Thanks for the help guys--

Last time I shot I did the walk back tuning, where I shot a group from 20 and then backed up to 40 and it was good. That said, would you guys say that the bow is tuned pretty well? It groups really well and I plan to shoot expandables so provided they shoot accurately, I am going to leave it as is and work on my form and shooting.

Its the 36" ATA model btw and the arrows are 28" long if that matters for computing spine.

Also, what would the FOC be of a 28" GT with 3 blazer vanes and an EZE Crest wrap with a 100 grain point? Thanks

Paul L Mohr

Sounds good to me. I would try a few of the heads you intend on shooting and see how they fly. Even mechanicals have a some windplaning to them. You can tie the blades close so they don't open in the target if you want.

I would say if you are going to mechanicals vrs fixed blades to experiment with bare shaft tuning if you want to touch things up a bit better.

What you have sounds like it should work pretty well though.

Paul

BobCo19-65

Well said. Try a few different one's with different weights.
I'd keep the FOCbetween about 9% mimimum and 15% max.