Do I need to adjust my tiller?
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD USA
Posts: 235
Do I need to adjust my tiller?
I think my brand new Patriot it 'out of tiller' - if that's what you call it...
The distance from the limb pocket to the string on the top limb is about 3/16" LONGER than the distance from the bottom pocket to the string.
Do I need to adjust something - ? If so - HOW??
Is it as simple as turning in one limb or the other?
Thanks!
Aim small miss small
The distance from the limb pocket to the string on the top limb is about 3/16" LONGER than the distance from the bottom pocket to the string.
Do I need to adjust something - ? If so - HOW??
Is it as simple as turning in one limb or the other?
Thanks!
Aim small miss small
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami FL USA
Posts: 208
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
Huntmup,
To check your tiller you need to stretch a string axle to axle of the bow form a reference line. Then measure the distance from where the limb meets the limb pocket to the string. This is because on certain one cam bows the idler wheel is not the same diameter as the cam. Then make the proper adjustments with you limb bolts, just be sure to loosen the limb bolt locking screws if the bow is equipped with them.
Aim Hard!
Edited by - FLHunter on 09/23/2002 10:19:03
To check your tiller you need to stretch a string axle to axle of the bow form a reference line. Then measure the distance from where the limb meets the limb pocket to the string. This is because on certain one cam bows the idler wheel is not the same diameter as the cam. Then make the proper adjustments with you limb bolts, just be sure to loosen the limb bolt locking screws if the bow is equipped with them.
Aim Hard!
Edited by - FLHunter on 09/23/2002 10:19:03
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD USA
Posts: 235
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
Thanks FLH -
I'm assuming the cause of tiller mis-adjustment is just as simple as someone not keeping the turns on the limb equal -
But what is the effect?
What happens if your tiller is out of ajustment?
And what is 'out of adjustment'? Is the 3/16" I mentioned a big deal? Where do problems start appearing?? Surely there must be some tolerance before it starts adversely effecting performance..??
Thanks!
Aim small miss small
I'm assuming the cause of tiller mis-adjustment is just as simple as someone not keeping the turns on the limb equal -
But what is the effect?
What happens if your tiller is out of ajustment?
And what is 'out of adjustment'? Is the 3/16" I mentioned a big deal? Where do problems start appearing?? Surely there must be some tolerance before it starts adversely effecting performance..??
Thanks!
Aim small miss small
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami FL USA
Posts: 208
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
Hunt,
I could be as simple as keeping the limb bolt turns equal, but there are differences in limbs. If one limb is weaker than the other the stronger limb is doing more work. In setting up your bow its good to know that you have equal tiller as a starting point for tuning the bow. The 3/16" measurement you are mentioning may or may not be out of tiller!!! Without the use of the datum line we don't know unless your owners manual states how to measure the tiller otherwise. I would call the manufacturer or your dealer to confirm the procedure they suggest. The datum line method is a very accurate method of getting the correct measurements.
As far as performance gain or loss it depends on the bow design. Many archers tune their tiller to help them hold on better in the shot and improve their grouping. There actually is an advanced tuning method called Tiller Tuning which starts at equal tiller. Most archers probably shoot their one cams at equal tiller.
Aim Hard!
I could be as simple as keeping the limb bolt turns equal, but there are differences in limbs. If one limb is weaker than the other the stronger limb is doing more work. In setting up your bow its good to know that you have equal tiller as a starting point for tuning the bow. The 3/16" measurement you are mentioning may or may not be out of tiller!!! Without the use of the datum line we don't know unless your owners manual states how to measure the tiller otherwise. I would call the manufacturer or your dealer to confirm the procedure they suggest. The datum line method is a very accurate method of getting the correct measurements.
As far as performance gain or loss it depends on the bow design. Many archers tune their tiller to help them hold on better in the shot and improve their grouping. There actually is an advanced tuning method called Tiller Tuning which starts at equal tiller. Most archers probably shoot their one cams at equal tiller.
Aim Hard!
#5
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
I just measured my Patriot from limb pocket to string and came up with the same result as you did.
Then I put a string from axel to axel and both measurement where the same.
So I would not worry about it. Its just the difference between the cam and idler wheel size.
Then I put a string from axel to axel and both measurement where the same.
So I would not worry about it. Its just the difference between the cam and idler wheel size.
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD USA
Posts: 235
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
I love this board!
Thanks a ton for the info.
I'm going to remeasure using the line & I'm going to contact BowTech too
Thanks for all the great info!
Aim small miss small
Thanks a ton for the info.
I'm going to remeasure using the line & I'm going to contact BowTech too
Thanks for all the great info!
Aim small miss small
#7
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Liberty Indiana USA
Posts: 382
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
If you do need to adjust the tiller, then what is the best way so as not to affect the draw weight? The guy from mathews says don't worry about tiller on my bow as you just bottom the limbs out and back them off to your draw weight. But if you have had someone work on your bow who is to say they made an equal number of turns. Just a thought.
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
Quite frankly, I don't trust any manufacturer to get limbs matched close enough to just bottom out the limb bolts and then back 'em off and trust that tiller will be right. Always measure it.
Also, what you're talking about is static tiller, and you want to get it set even for a starting point.
What's important though, is dynamic tiller...how those limbs bend during the draw and aiming cycles. If you sight on a target before drawing, then see the pin move up or down off the aim point when you draw, your dynamic tiller needs to be adjusted. If the pin pulls up, take a little off the top bolt and/or add a little to the bottom. If it pulls down, do the opposite. Keep adjusting until the pin stays level during the draw. (If you can't draw straight back while holding the pin on target, that's a good indication you're overbowed.)
It makes for easier tuning, easier aiming and better accuracy when the limbs are balanced instead of fighting each other under the tension of being drawn.
Edited by - Arthur P on 09/24/2002 09:37:59
Also, what you're talking about is static tiller, and you want to get it set even for a starting point.
What's important though, is dynamic tiller...how those limbs bend during the draw and aiming cycles. If you sight on a target before drawing, then see the pin move up or down off the aim point when you draw, your dynamic tiller needs to be adjusted. If the pin pulls up, take a little off the top bolt and/or add a little to the bottom. If it pulls down, do the opposite. Keep adjusting until the pin stays level during the draw. (If you can't draw straight back while holding the pin on target, that's a good indication you're overbowed.)
It makes for easier tuning, easier aiming and better accuracy when the limbs are balanced instead of fighting each other under the tension of being drawn.
Edited by - Arthur P on 09/24/2002 09:37:59
#10
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Do I need to adjust my tiller?
You could have two limbs absolutely perfectly matched to each other and still wind up with an unbalanced situation.
Consider your hand position on the grip and where you feel the most pressure when you draw. Do you get a lot of the heel of your hand into the grip, get even pressure across the palm or do you get most of the pressure up near the top of the grip?
Most bows do not have the pressure point of the grip exactly halfway between the limb pockets. It's a bit below center, which causes the bottom limb to react stronger than the top limb. If you're feeling a lot of pressure on the heel of your hand, then you're making that bottom limb react even stronger.
If you adjust the dynamic tiller properly, you'll feel the pressure more evenly across the hand instead of on the heel of the hand or up on the web of the thumb. That's what you want on a bow that's designed to be shot low wrist, like most all of them are today.
Bows are designed with the grip placed differently in relation to the limb pockets. Some are closer to center, others quite a bit below center so they can center the arrow in the bow. Then, hardly anyone is going to grip a bow exactly like anyone else does. There is no one tiller setting that is perfect for every bow and every shooter. That's why setting the static tiller dead even is simply a starting point.
Consider your hand position on the grip and where you feel the most pressure when you draw. Do you get a lot of the heel of your hand into the grip, get even pressure across the palm or do you get most of the pressure up near the top of the grip?
Most bows do not have the pressure point of the grip exactly halfway between the limb pockets. It's a bit below center, which causes the bottom limb to react stronger than the top limb. If you're feeling a lot of pressure on the heel of your hand, then you're making that bottom limb react even stronger.
If you adjust the dynamic tiller properly, you'll feel the pressure more evenly across the hand instead of on the heel of the hand or up on the web of the thumb. That's what you want on a bow that's designed to be shot low wrist, like most all of them are today.
Bows are designed with the grip placed differently in relation to the limb pockets. Some are closer to center, others quite a bit below center so they can center the arrow in the bow. Then, hardly anyone is going to grip a bow exactly like anyone else does. There is no one tiller setting that is perfect for every bow and every shooter. That's why setting the static tiller dead even is simply a starting point.