ButchA

Thanks....

The100gr Magnus Stingers are now my primary broadhead. They flygreat and with so much power, theyactually penetrated right through the "Black Hole" target, and poked out about 8" on the backside!

Mybow (Patsy) is a classic old bow.... Ain't the fastest thing out there.... ButI love it and am comfortable with it, and it works. I remember a bunch of people on here helped me "guesstimate" the fps that it shoots. With all the calculations and arrow weight and KE and whatnot, the rough estimate was about +/- 230 fps on a good day. That's still fast enough for me. Accuracy and shot placement are more important to me than a bow shooting 9000 fps.

Butch A.

ButchA

UPDATE....
Hey again,

I went up to the bow shop with my old PSE bow earlier. I asked if they had time to quickly check the nock point, the rest, etc... "Sure, no problem, be right with you..." was the response.

Long story short, they put on a T-square that clips to the bow string. The rest is setup right and aligned perfect. So is the nock point. But to make sure, they grabbed a spare 2315 arrow and nocked it. The "prongs" of the TM Hunter rest were making the 2315 sit just a microscopic hair low - I mean, not even a 1/64 of an inch. The guy said to not worry, but then he took an allen wrench and just barely nudged it. So now, everything is absolutely perfectly aligned, straight, square, and true....

I told him the story with the 125gr Thunderheads and also about the new 100gr Magnus Stingers and how they each fly. He agreed that NAP broadheads are a teeny bit heavier than advertised, but since the Stingers fly so well, use them and go bag a deer this season!

Thanks to all who replied!!

Butch A.

Paul L Mohr

You can't tell by measuring it. That is a decent way to start, but no way is it the final adjustment. That is why you broad head tune, or bareshaft tune. It will let you fine tune the set up a bit more to your actual shooting style, arrow, and bow. There is no one measurement for every bow.

My advice would be to go with the 100 heads and leave it alone since it shoots well that way. However if you were actually going to fine tune it better I bet changing your nocking point very slightly would fix it. You could even do it with your tiller probably. Like I said, with your set up I wouldn't bother though.

The final tuning usually has to be done by you, not someone else.

I actually show that arrow as being kind of weak at that length for your set up. So it might be the lighter tip that is helping it. You could drop a few lbs of draw weight as well to check that.

If you could actually run an arrow thru a chrono and give me the speed and weight of the arrow I could get it more accurate. It's deffinately not too stiff which is why the tip change may have effected it.

Paul

ButchA

Thanks... That is exactly what I am going to do.

I learned a ton of information over the weekend from this site, surfing the internet, and from the guy at the bow shop. (i.e. tuning a bow for broadheads - even though they are the same grain as field tips - because99 times out of a hundred, they will fly different.)

If I was to stick with the 125gr Thunderheads, then I'd have to adjust the nock point a hair and/or my sight pins to get the Thunderheads perfectly zeroed in. But then if I wanted to goof around with target practice with field tips, the field tips would be off.

Since I found the 100gr Magnus Stinger and have it aligned vertical with the bow string, it absolutely perfectly flies like my 125gr field tips. No maintenance required!

The guy agreed and told me that there isn't any more performance features or enhancement that I could tweak out of such an old bow. It's set and will stay set and will keep on shooting 2315's forever. I should just keep on keepin' on with 125gr field tips and the 100gr Magnus Stingers and bag a big one this coming season! [8D]

Translation: If itain't broke, don't fix it...

Thanks again!!

Butch A.

burniegoeasily

I quit using thunder heads. I use to use alluminum arrows with thunder head 125s and would have to mix and match to find which heads like which arrows. I swithced to carbons 5 years ago, still using thunder heads and still had problems.The next year I switched to muzzy 3 blades, slick tricks, andalso different mechanicals (steal heads and spitfires all in 100 grain) and never saw problems with any of them, that is with few exceptions. I liked the proformance with thunder heads but seemed like I was always having to play with them to get them to fly right. Some would fly low, while others flly high, right, or left.

burniegoeasily

Something else to think about, If you push your knock up to get a slight high tear in paper, you will have a little more leay way with arrow weights. Id test your set up through paper first, as it sounds your nock might be a little high. Id try to push it to the point of getting a slight high tear.

burniegoeasily

I can relate. I have my old 86 hoyt excel and love it. I have gone through many bows and never stuck with one, other than my old excel. I bought a brand new razor tech when they cam out, but ended up leaving it at home most of the time, taking the old excel. I think I might give the old girl a rest this year. I just built a bow that I really like. I think it just might take the place of my old excel, that is for the next 20 years