txmarshmonkey

Forgive me, because theseare probably a very newbie tuning questions.

Wouldn't your bow be tuned, IF,....
1. your knocking point and rest were lined-up accurately.
2. your arrows are properly spined for draw wt. and head wt.
3. you shoot the same wt. BH's as field pts.
4. you don't torque your bow while shooting.
5. everything is in-line when you release.

How can a BH shoot differently than a field tip when the arrow is leaving the bow straight? IF the wind is not a factor.
It just seems to me that if you line up your knocking pt and rest, then your bow should be tuned. Why would you have to paper tune? If it's all lined-up and your not shooting accurately, then you must be torquing something.

Am I way off base here?

I have this weird urge to do the paper tuning thing and all that, but I'm shooting good and I don't notice any weird arrow flight. I kinda feel guilty because I haven't ever tuned my bow. The shop set it up for me and so far it's been working.

Someone tune my weird thoughts, please.

DaveC

I'd say if your broadhead tipped arrows are landing where you want them to then there is no need to go backwards and paper tune.

Usually when you put your fixed blades on you then realize everyting wasn't as perfectly tuned as you thought it was. At least that seems to be my case lately.
The larger the head, the more perfect everything needs to be imho.

Paul L Mohr

How would you know all of those things you mentioned were right without shooting the bow, which is basically tuning it. Sometimes you can eyeball or measure things and get it close. Sometimes it's right on. Depends on how close you were picking your arrow spine and how good your form is. Often times you need to touch things up a bit by shooting the bow and adjusting things to conform to how you shoot or to respond to the set up you have.

If you are happy with the way it is shooting I would not mess with it. Paper tuning is only the begining, not the end. You set everything initially by eye or by measuremeants. Then shoot thru paper to see if anything major is wrong like spine or some sort of contact. It will also show form or grip problems. You have to be able to shoot pretty well to begin with to paper tune.

After that you group tune or tune with broad heads. Sometimes you will have to change things from where they were when you paper tuned. I normally just skip that step and go right to group tuning.

If your broad heads group well and impact where you want them to I wouldn't dink with it. It is tuned. From the looks of it your shop did a good job of setting it up and you have pretty decent form.

Quit worrying about it and have fun shooting.

Paul

txmarshmonkey

Thanks fellas!

UncleNorby

Depending on the exact bow you have, there are things that can go "out of tune". Cam synchronization for example. You may or may not see signs of this by looking at arrow flight alone.

Single cam bows are supposed to be better at staying "in tune", but I've read they can need a tune up once in a while. I don't have one though. My bow is an old Hoyt with wheels, andI tune it by making sure the wheelsroll over at the same time, by comparing the positions of bushings inboth wheels relative to the limbs. I adjust it by twisting (shortening) or untwisting (lengthening) the idle strings. Once the wheels are timed, there istiller to think about. Mine is supposed to be tillered to about 1/16" or 1/8" less on the lower limb than the top limb. You adjust that with the limb bolts. Then it boils down to arrows, rest, plunger, sights, etc.

BobCo19-65

In a perfect world, yes.

And I would add that the best possible tune that you could get fromfrom a compoundbow would be a tune where you areshooting through the exact centershot of your bow keeping in mind your individual form and equipment. Not all bows and archers can achieve this though. And the tune can only be as good as the shooter tuning the bow.

Rack-attack

Because an arrow NEVER leaves a bow straight...........It is flexing like mamba dancer.

That flex can and will cause the broadheads to catch wind and skid. This may only happen as soon as it leaves the bow but it will be enough to cause a slightly different impact point than field points.

What a bow is at rest in not what that bow is at full draw and is not what that bow is during the dynamic of the shot. The cable rod side pressure will alter dynamic center point from static center point.Your grip can also do the same. Many forces working in a split second that cannot be accounted for when the bow is sitting in a vise

ijimmy

You are going to have to learn to tune your bow yourself , You are the onlyone who can do it , someone else cant do it for you . If you read eastons tuneing guide it says to start with paper tuneing , and then go on to the next step , which would be broadhead tuneing for you . If it was a strickly target bow it would be fine tuneing . I skip the paper tune and go straight to broadhead tune , but thats me , deferant things work for deferant pepole . Archery is alot of trail and error .

nodog

Perhaps the shop tuned it.

buggieone

When you add wings to the front of a dancing arrow it always has a steering effect!!
HAVE WINGS WILL FLY!!