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Wild lab

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Old 12-30-2004, 03:10 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: the Great Plains
Posts: 351
Default RE: Wild lab

Doc E, I don't think he wants to hear what he should have done before the dog is one year old...he is asking what to do now that the bad habit has already formed. I'm sure he knows that a mistake has been made somewhere in the past, and now he needs help fixing it. Maybe it is a "training problem," but I assume that is why he is asking for help. Yourmove, sometimes pups need to be pups, and it can be hard getting a hold on them, but it is far better in the long run so that someone doesn't get hurt or angry about their car, or close-minded about hunting dogs. I'm not sure how old you are becuase your profile isn't filled out, but I'll assume you are old enough to make a little money. If you can fork it out, buy a shock collar. You'll have to be very careful for it to work...you can really mess up a dog, and some dogs probably can't handle a shock collar at all. However, if done right, the success can be worth the costs. Only use it for one bad habit at a time, and don't use it to teach, only to reinforce. Try this: get a friend to help you out. Walk the dog on a leash up to your friend and set the dog up to want to jump. When he does, tell him "off" and pop the leash quite hard...I mean take the dog right back to his feet. Try it in the kitchen, too, with food on the counters. Stand at the counter with you foot on his leash, and when he jumps, the leash should yank him right back down....say "off." Now, once the dog understands he shouldn't jump, give him a good reason() not to jump by doing the following: let him wear the shock collar for a while (an hour or so) and then take him to the club. This way he forgets to associate it with anything that happens later. When he approaches a car or person and starts to jump, hit the button just as his feet come up off the ground. Don't say a word to him and he will think that jumping is what causes the shock. Some dogs will disobey becuase they think you aren't the boss, and the shock collar has a way of getting them to listen real close. After doing this the first time, set him up again and this time give the command and hit the button as he jumps. He will then associate the command, the shock, and what he already knows he shouldn't do, which will begin to come together after about two or three times. When cars are coming, say come, and if he goes to jump instead, hit him with the collar and say "off." He should get it down before long to where he won't even chase a car. The collar allows you, in a way, to have a long leash. I have successfully trained an obstinate pup the "come" command using collar reinforcement after much yard work and leash work. After being certain my pup knew what "come" meant, and after having him do it many times willingly, it was time to use the collar. You see, he would not come on command when in the woods or off the leash. He knew what I wanted, becuase he'd done it many times on a leash, but he knew that off the leash, he was faster and basically in control. I put the collar on him and let him wear it some before using it, then I told him to come. When he didn't, I started the shock, and then he quickly started my way. If he vears off, you just zap it again. When he came on in, he got a piece of bacon (a very rare treat). He quickly realized that if he didn't come, something "dangerous" happens, and that if he does come, he is rewarded with a treat and my praise. It used to be that the thrill of running around and disobeying was a better choice than my praise, but it is safe to say that, after getting buzzed a few times, he'd rather have my praise than keep going. The key was to be patient and praise him every time he came to me, even if he had to be zapped in the process. The worst way to teach a dog to come is to punish him when you catch him....why on earth would a dog want to come if there is a potential punishment? Consistent reward for coming matched with the consequence of being shocked when not coming was the key. He never had a clue that I was the one shocking him. He simply thought that something "got him" if he didn't listen up. He is turning into quite a manageable dog and he handles well, but I had to do it correctly. Careful handling and letting the dog know who is in charge on a consistent basis is the key. With my pup, it took a shock collar, but I don't think every dog needs one by any means. However, when used very carefully, they can give a dog plenty of reason to obey their master. Praise and reward are effective, but only if the dog sees the reward as a better option than the consequence. Otherwise, some dogs would rather choose the consequence. Good luck, and Doc E is right about the importance of getting a good handle on your dog. However, you still have time to make up for bad habits, they just may be a little harder to correct. I will mention here, though, that there is no substitute for making sure the dog knows you're dominant. You have to show them this physically, sometimes, by eye contact, standing over them, handling them, letting them watch you eat dinner before feeding them (wild k-9's have to wait for the dominant pack leader to eat before they can have anything), and whatever other means are necessary. I had to "growl" and shake my dog's scruff a little when he was a pup, just like his momma would have done, to show him not to treat me like a chewable littermate.
SWOSUMike is offline  
Old 12-30-2004, 06:28 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Central Ohio OH USA
Posts: 172
Default RE: Wild lab

I highly sugest in enrolling in local obedience classes. Esablishing control now will better your relationship in the future.
There is nothing better than hunting with a properly trained well mannerd gundog.
TreestandEd is offline  
Old 12-30-2004, 07:25 PM
  #13  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Colville WA USA
Posts: 1,974
Default RE: Wild lab

ORIGINAL: SWOSUMike

Doc E, I don't think he wants to hear what he should have done before the dog is one year old...he is asking what to do now that the bad habit has already formed. I'm sure he knows that a mistake has been made somewhere in the past, and now he needs help fixing it.
I have given him my advice on what needs to be done NOW -- (as well as in the past -- but the past is past), so he needs to work on it NOW.

Since the proper training wasn't done "before", there's no reason it can't be done "now".............. that was the gist of my posts.

His question was "will this wear of by the age of two"..................My answer is "No it won't,,,,, without proper training".
Doc E is offline  
Old 12-30-2004, 07:43 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,148
Default RE: Wild lab

Field Trial type labs can be pretty hyper, and NO they don't grow out of it. A lot of the pointers will "settle down" after a year, labs don't, being a more "immature" dog is in their makeup. It's one of the reasons you can train a lab to do what you can do. If you tried to put a pointer through a lab type training, you would destroy him mentally. You need strict obedience or you will never have a dog worth owning. He also probably needs daily work. The sad fact is a lot of guys don't realize that many field type labs needs as much or MORE exercise than the pointers or continentals. Labs can also be DESTRUCTIVE AS HELL if they are bored or have no outlet for their energy.


Fortunatley for me, in the winter up here. a few hours running around in -10 takes the edge right off my lab and he chills out after chilling out pretty well!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AlaskaMagnum is offline  
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