Coyote hunting tips for a beginner
02-04-2014, 04:58 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 2,568
A reprint for a Magazine.
Coyotes are clever--but successful calling isn't rocket science.
Author: Craig Boddington
Volumes have been written about calling coyotes. There are indeed many tricks to the trade. And in any form of calling--from ducks to deer to turkeys to predators--there are no absolutes.
Not all stands are going to produce. Even if you do everything right not all individual creatures are going to respond, and those that will respond may not respond at a given time on a given day.
But in order to produce those volumes of material about calling coyotes it is necessary to create some sort of mystery regarding the process. It's really quite simple. In order for calling to produce a shot there are just three basic ingredients: You need a stand that is positioned so that a coyote can hear you call; you need to produce a sound that will make a coyote quit whatever else it is doing and come to investigate; and you must be positioned so that you will see the animal before it sees you and be able to take a shot. Let's examine these three basic concepts in greater detail.
Choosing the Stand
The difficulty in choosing a calling site or stand depends largely on the relative density of the coyote population. In much of the West coyotes are so endemic that there isn't much finesse involved, but this rule is absolute: If there isn't a coyote around to hear you call, then you will not get a response. You can choose your area based on concentrations of tracks and scat, and of course by hearing the coyotes howling.
The exact location to call from is trickier. A coyote might come from any direction, but you must choose your stand based on the most likely direction. The wind must be in your favor, not necessarily in your face but never blowing from you toward the area where you think there might be coyotes. You want enough visibility so that you can effectively employ your sporting arm of choice--keeping in mind that if you can see the coyote it also has an opportunity to see you.
I almost always call with a rifle, so I like to set up so that I can see at least 100 yards, preferably a bit more. Low rises overlooking streambeds and valleys where coyotes are likely to travel are some of my favorite spots. If you're bowhunting that much visibility isn't necessarily desirable. This is also true in the East, where callers often use shotguns with heavy loads. Under these circumstances there isn't much point in seeing the coyote until it's within 30 or 40 yards.
The Right Call
There are dozens and dozens of good calls and good calling systems, ranging from elaborate electronic systems to the plain old mouth-blown tube call. They all work if they are employed properly and if the sound produced is correct for the area and time of year.
The trusty "rabbit in distress" call is the basic, and it can work almost anywhere at any time of the year. However, most serious callers use a much larger repertoire. In the spring a fawn bleat is extremely effective, and it can be sweetened by placing a fawn decoy in a visible location, not only giving a hunting predator greater confidence but also drawing attention away from the caller. In our area we have a lot of wild hogs, and in recent years we've had a lot of success with calls imitating a young pig in distress.
The primary mating season for coyotes is late winter, January and February. Howling is much in vogue these days, and this is the time of year when it will be most effective. There are a number of good calls on the market today that imitate the howl of a male coyote, and it can be extremely exciting when another male answers this call, hackles up and ready to do battle.
These guidelines are purposefully vague. The call has to represent something natural to the coyote, whether it's a fawn bleat at a time of year when fawns are important prey, or a mating call during mating season. Beyond that I'm convinced that the exact call used doesn't matter a great deal.
It is important to be patient; once I choose a stand and get settled in I call for about 15 minutes before changing locations. This is long enough for coyotes, but probably not long enough for a bobcat because they tend to come in much more slowly and cautiously. Within that 15 minutes I tend to call for 15 or 20 seconds every two or three minutes. Obviously you're looking around very carefully--with minimum movement--the whole time. But before you decide to change locations and stand up in disgust take a very careful look around!
Taking the Shot
Some stands will produce and some won't. Some days will be better than others, and some days will be complete washouts even when you're doing everything right.
But the most important part of calling probably isn't choosing the site or the actual calling, but being able to take and make the shot when a coyote appears. Good camouflage is extremely important.
You should wear camouflage that is appropriate for your area, including face mask and gloves. Keep in mind, too, that no camouflage is good enough if you're calling in plain view. Back yourself up against a tree or brush or, if no cover is available, lie prone in the grass or sagebrush, keeping movement to an absolute minimum. Shine off your scope or gun barrel are big mistakes.
A lot callers camouflage their rifles. I usually don't, but I try to keep the rifle low and out of sight until it's time to use it.
It's extremely exciting when a coyote comes to the call. No matter how many times you've seen one come in the adrenaline rush is unavoidable, and is one of the reasons we hunt. But it's important to use common sense and try to control the excitement. The game isn't yet over when you see the coyote; you still have to close the deal. You will have to bring your rifle, bow, or whatever to bear. Ideally you will do this while the coyote is hidden by brush or a fold in the ground, but if you must do it while the coyote is in view then you must move very slowly and steadily. Exactly when to take the shot depends entirely on the situation. With a scoped rifle I like to let them get close--but not so close that I'll have nothing but hair in the scope, nor so close that it's almost certain I'll spook the coyote and have a tough running shot.
After you shoot, whether it's a hit or a miss, hold your ground and keep calling for a few more minutes. It isn't unusual to have multiple coyotes answer a call from different directions--and a single rifle shot may not stop another coyote from coming in. Most serious callers agree that the single most important consideration in calling is not to miss. The coyote is an extremely clever animal, but good calling will fool the best of them, once. I don't think any of us know if this is actually true or not, but it's a widely accepted article of faith that a coyote called in and missed will never again respond to a call. Certainly not that call! So let them come in until your shot is certain, and then lower the boom!
Also don't be afraid to use calls that are not what is considered normal for hunting coyotes.
We get them with yapping dogs, fighting tom cats and turkey yelping among others.
Al
Coyotes are clever--but successful calling isn't rocket science.
Author: Craig Boddington
Volumes have been written about calling coyotes. There are indeed many tricks to the trade. And in any form of calling--from ducks to deer to turkeys to predators--there are no absolutes.
Not all stands are going to produce. Even if you do everything right not all individual creatures are going to respond, and those that will respond may not respond at a given time on a given day.
But in order to produce those volumes of material about calling coyotes it is necessary to create some sort of mystery regarding the process. It's really quite simple. In order for calling to produce a shot there are just three basic ingredients: You need a stand that is positioned so that a coyote can hear you call; you need to produce a sound that will make a coyote quit whatever else it is doing and come to investigate; and you must be positioned so that you will see the animal before it sees you and be able to take a shot. Let's examine these three basic concepts in greater detail.
Choosing the Stand
The difficulty in choosing a calling site or stand depends largely on the relative density of the coyote population. In much of the West coyotes are so endemic that there isn't much finesse involved, but this rule is absolute: If there isn't a coyote around to hear you call, then you will not get a response. You can choose your area based on concentrations of tracks and scat, and of course by hearing the coyotes howling.
The exact location to call from is trickier. A coyote might come from any direction, but you must choose your stand based on the most likely direction. The wind must be in your favor, not necessarily in your face but never blowing from you toward the area where you think there might be coyotes. You want enough visibility so that you can effectively employ your sporting arm of choice--keeping in mind that if you can see the coyote it also has an opportunity to see you.
I almost always call with a rifle, so I like to set up so that I can see at least 100 yards, preferably a bit more. Low rises overlooking streambeds and valleys where coyotes are likely to travel are some of my favorite spots. If you're bowhunting that much visibility isn't necessarily desirable. This is also true in the East, where callers often use shotguns with heavy loads. Under these circumstances there isn't much point in seeing the coyote until it's within 30 or 40 yards.
The Right Call
There are dozens and dozens of good calls and good calling systems, ranging from elaborate electronic systems to the plain old mouth-blown tube call. They all work if they are employed properly and if the sound produced is correct for the area and time of year.
The trusty "rabbit in distress" call is the basic, and it can work almost anywhere at any time of the year. However, most serious callers use a much larger repertoire. In the spring a fawn bleat is extremely effective, and it can be sweetened by placing a fawn decoy in a visible location, not only giving a hunting predator greater confidence but also drawing attention away from the caller. In our area we have a lot of wild hogs, and in recent years we've had a lot of success with calls imitating a young pig in distress.
The primary mating season for coyotes is late winter, January and February. Howling is much in vogue these days, and this is the time of year when it will be most effective. There are a number of good calls on the market today that imitate the howl of a male coyote, and it can be extremely exciting when another male answers this call, hackles up and ready to do battle.
These guidelines are purposefully vague. The call has to represent something natural to the coyote, whether it's a fawn bleat at a time of year when fawns are important prey, or a mating call during mating season. Beyond that I'm convinced that the exact call used doesn't matter a great deal.
It is important to be patient; once I choose a stand and get settled in I call for about 15 minutes before changing locations. This is long enough for coyotes, but probably not long enough for a bobcat because they tend to come in much more slowly and cautiously. Within that 15 minutes I tend to call for 15 or 20 seconds every two or three minutes. Obviously you're looking around very carefully--with minimum movement--the whole time. But before you decide to change locations and stand up in disgust take a very careful look around!
Taking the Shot
Some stands will produce and some won't. Some days will be better than others, and some days will be complete washouts even when you're doing everything right.
But the most important part of calling probably isn't choosing the site or the actual calling, but being able to take and make the shot when a coyote appears. Good camouflage is extremely important.
You should wear camouflage that is appropriate for your area, including face mask and gloves. Keep in mind, too, that no camouflage is good enough if you're calling in plain view. Back yourself up against a tree or brush or, if no cover is available, lie prone in the grass or sagebrush, keeping movement to an absolute minimum. Shine off your scope or gun barrel are big mistakes.
A lot callers camouflage their rifles. I usually don't, but I try to keep the rifle low and out of sight until it's time to use it.
It's extremely exciting when a coyote comes to the call. No matter how many times you've seen one come in the adrenaline rush is unavoidable, and is one of the reasons we hunt. But it's important to use common sense and try to control the excitement. The game isn't yet over when you see the coyote; you still have to close the deal. You will have to bring your rifle, bow, or whatever to bear. Ideally you will do this while the coyote is hidden by brush or a fold in the ground, but if you must do it while the coyote is in view then you must move very slowly and steadily. Exactly when to take the shot depends entirely on the situation. With a scoped rifle I like to let them get close--but not so close that I'll have nothing but hair in the scope, nor so close that it's almost certain I'll spook the coyote and have a tough running shot.
After you shoot, whether it's a hit or a miss, hold your ground and keep calling for a few more minutes. It isn't unusual to have multiple coyotes answer a call from different directions--and a single rifle shot may not stop another coyote from coming in. Most serious callers agree that the single most important consideration in calling is not to miss. The coyote is an extremely clever animal, but good calling will fool the best of them, once. I don't think any of us know if this is actually true or not, but it's a widely accepted article of faith that a coyote called in and missed will never again respond to a call. Certainly not that call! So let them come in until your shot is certain, and then lower the boom!
Also don't be afraid to use calls that are not what is considered normal for hunting coyotes.
We get them with yapping dogs, fighting tom cats and turkey yelping among others.
Al
02-04-2014, 05:49 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 2,178
Get a lighter Caliber Rifle.....something in say a .223,.204 or even a .17 Fireball,learn to be accurate with which You choose and You'll enjoy the Sport much more putting down Coyotes at long ranges with light,fast bullets that will knock down a Predator with small entry wounds/holes little to no exit holes and will baffle them at where Your shooting from...especially if You use a Suppressor! 
02-05-2014, 06:02 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 2,568
308 is fine for coyote hunting. just use a lighter bullet. Of course if you get really hooked on hunting them and start selling the fur buy some thing smaller I would not go below 22 cal and if it is windy in your area I would stay in the 6 MM area like 243.
Learn to sew the holes if your selling the hides too.
Most of my friend and my self just sell the whole carcass to a fellow hunter who gives us about 50% of the hide market value and we don't have to do all the work.
We also hunt in some thick woods and cedar swamps. A 12 ga. with #4 buck works great.
Also if you get hooked you can build your own caller for less than $50.00 and use a MP3 player to hold the sounds. You can get the sounds free from Varmint Al's web site and wind river.
Here is a link to my home build and links there to other places about them.
http://thunderbucks.com/tbforum/inde...pic,125.0.html
It is addicting.
Al
Learn to sew the holes if your selling the hides too.
Most of my friend and my self just sell the whole carcass to a fellow hunter who gives us about 50% of the hide market value and we don't have to do all the work.
We also hunt in some thick woods and cedar swamps. A 12 ga. with #4 buck works great.
Also if you get hooked you can build your own caller for less than $50.00 and use a MP3 player to hold the sounds. You can get the sounds free from Varmint Al's web site and wind river.
Here is a link to my home build and links there to other places about them.
http://thunderbucks.com/tbforum/inde...pic,125.0.html
It is addicting.
Al
02-05-2014, 04:03 PM
#6
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location:
Posts: 195
Hmm, a suppressor that is illegal in virtually every state for hunting and does nothing for the supersonic crack? A 17, 204 or 224 suggested for long range where wind is going to be more of a factor?
Your 308 is fine with deer bullets. You will have 30 cal holes to sew up if you save hides. Don't buy into all of the hype that you need this or that. Just set up with the wind in your face. Use a feather on a string dangling in the wind off a sapling. Or a weasel ball flopping around in the field. Obstruct yourself with cover. Learn to call off of open and closed reeds as well as a caller if you use one. Also have some sort of a coaxer like a mouse squeak. Start out calling low in case some are nearer, as you don't want to blast their ears out. Increase the volume over time. 15-20 minutes should be about max for a stand. Kill the calling for the last few minutes and sit tight seeing if a weary one is eyeing your stand. Move to another some distance away and start fresh. Watch the birds, if they get spooked up then odds are something made them that way and is headed your way.
As for caliber, just use what you have. I've done it since a child. I have several 17s and 223s. Personally these days I use a 40 cal muzzle loader. I have used about everything over the years. Coyotes are easy to kill, you don't need a super bullet. Permanent wound cavities do them in with a center fire not intended to be frangible. If later on you want to go to a varmint caliber that is fine. But the only few disadvantages a deer bullet has is the two holes, more likely to ricochet and the cost per round. A fella can sew the holes and not get docked by the furrier. It would take hundreds of coyote to offset the price of a rifle. The main factor is the ricochet so just be careful where you are shooting.
Your 308 is fine with deer bullets. You will have 30 cal holes to sew up if you save hides. Don't buy into all of the hype that you need this or that. Just set up with the wind in your face. Use a feather on a string dangling in the wind off a sapling. Or a weasel ball flopping around in the field. Obstruct yourself with cover. Learn to call off of open and closed reeds as well as a caller if you use one. Also have some sort of a coaxer like a mouse squeak. Start out calling low in case some are nearer, as you don't want to blast their ears out. Increase the volume over time. 15-20 minutes should be about max for a stand. Kill the calling for the last few minutes and sit tight seeing if a weary one is eyeing your stand. Move to another some distance away and start fresh. Watch the birds, if they get spooked up then odds are something made them that way and is headed your way.
As for caliber, just use what you have. I've done it since a child. I have several 17s and 223s. Personally these days I use a 40 cal muzzle loader. I have used about everything over the years. Coyotes are easy to kill, you don't need a super bullet. Permanent wound cavities do them in with a center fire not intended to be frangible. If later on you want to go to a varmint caliber that is fine. But the only few disadvantages a deer bullet has is the two holes, more likely to ricochet and the cost per round. A fella can sew the holes and not get docked by the furrier. It would take hundreds of coyote to offset the price of a rifle. The main factor is the ricochet so just be careful where you are shooting.
02-05-2014, 04:40 PM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 2,178
There are several States that allow the use of Suppressors,most will charge a processing fee and it will take a background check along with the price of the Suppressor itself.I've never had wind issues using my CZ .204 Rifle using 32-35 or finally the Federal loaded 49 grain Sierra Blitz Kings!
I'd be more worried about using the much lighter .17 Hornet a .17 HMR and the newer .17 WSM on a windy day!
I'd be more worried about using the much lighter .17 Hornet a .17 HMR and the newer .17 WSM on a windy day!
02-05-2014, 05:58 PM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 5,130
GTO,
I shoot a .204 at ground squirrels at +/- 300 yards and I have experienced 4"-6" of drift on windy days.
Just my experience.................
Good varmint & predator caliber IMO though !!!
I shoot a .204 at ground squirrels at +/- 300 yards and I have experienced 4"-6" of drift on windy days.
Just my experience.................
Good varmint & predator caliber IMO though !!!
Last edited by Sheridan; 02-06-2014 at 11:10 AM.
02-05-2014, 09:08 PM
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location:
Posts: 195
I have no qualms with light calibers as that is what I use as well. It's just not neccisary to hunt a coyote. Never good advise to tell a fella he needs to spend x amount of money to be able to hunt them. Ranchers used 30-30s on them long before it became popular to hunt them. Folks buy into what they read, that they need the hottest new caliber, generally in a full bull barrel outfit. The truth of the matter is instead of what caliber or even gun the most important thing is to know what the object is.
The coyote generally comes in fast. Ranges are generally under 300 yards. He wants what ever is getting tore apart, but doesn't want to be tore apart himself. Although a predator he could turn into the prey quickly. So urgency in to get to the animal, but wariness in case something meaner than him has it. All the while checking by site sound and smell. If. You are calling then you are the target he's vexing in on. If using a caller then somewhere in your vicinity. If you use distractions to confirm he only sees prey and no other predator, you have the wind right and aren't blasting him out with to much sound then a long range caliber isn't needed. If you are needing to pick them off further than 100 yards or so then the teqhnique needs to be dialed in. Not trying to be argumentative guys. I see all kinds of posts touting the need for a certain caliber, a heavy barrel rifle, a suppressor and so on. I have hunted them for decades, used to write for Predator Master, now Predator Xtreme I think. Sure the magazines want to sell what the advertisers have, but all you need is something to bring them to you. Something to kill them with. And not get caught in the process by the coyote. The caliber, type of rifle, sound level of that rifle or any other aspect are just personal preference, not mandatory for success.
The coyote generally comes in fast. Ranges are generally under 300 yards. He wants what ever is getting tore apart, but doesn't want to be tore apart himself. Although a predator he could turn into the prey quickly. So urgency in to get to the animal, but wariness in case something meaner than him has it. All the while checking by site sound and smell. If. You are calling then you are the target he's vexing in on. If using a caller then somewhere in your vicinity. If you use distractions to confirm he only sees prey and no other predator, you have the wind right and aren't blasting him out with to much sound then a long range caliber isn't needed. If you are needing to pick them off further than 100 yards or so then the teqhnique needs to be dialed in. Not trying to be argumentative guys. I see all kinds of posts touting the need for a certain caliber, a heavy barrel rifle, a suppressor and so on. I have hunted them for decades, used to write for Predator Master, now Predator Xtreme I think. Sure the magazines want to sell what the advertisers have, but all you need is something to bring them to you. Something to kill them with. And not get caught in the process by the coyote. The caliber, type of rifle, sound level of that rifle or any other aspect are just personal preference, not mandatory for success.
02-06-2014, 06:50 AM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
Huntingnet.com Predator Hunting Reference Section
Take a look through this section of the forum (link at the top of the page on the Small Game forum also).
The reference section has a lot of tips and guidance for new hunters, and is a place where you can ask specific questions for some of us to answer as well. We keep certain topics over there because we get a lot of repeat questions, so that's a place that can store info long term for lots of new guys to read.
My advice on hunting with that .308win is to use your typical deer hunting bullet, or at least a fairly hard deer hunting bullet. I've never seen a benefit in using lightweight bullets in a 30cal in terms of fur-friendliness. A "firm" deer bullet like the Hornady SST or Interbond, or a bonded Partition will leave two holes, as most 30cal bullets will, but the exit will be nice and small, instead of a gaping mess like a lighter construction bullet would make.
Take a look through this section of the forum (link at the top of the page on the Small Game forum also).
The reference section has a lot of tips and guidance for new hunters, and is a place where you can ask specific questions for some of us to answer as well. We keep certain topics over there because we get a lot of repeat questions, so that's a place that can store info long term for lots of new guys to read.
My advice on hunting with that .308win is to use your typical deer hunting bullet, or at least a fairly hard deer hunting bullet. I've never seen a benefit in using lightweight bullets in a 30cal in terms of fur-friendliness. A "firm" deer bullet like the Hornady SST or Interbond, or a bonded Partition will leave two holes, as most 30cal bullets will, but the exit will be nice and small, instead of a gaping mess like a lighter construction bullet would make.