How to Skin for the fur
01-01-2013, 08:15 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 56
How to Skin for the fur
I want to start selling any fur that I sell. How would buyers want the fur? With the feet ? How do you skin out the feet? Also what handmade tool is easiest to flesh the pelt with? Also how do you prepare the fur? Answers would be greatly appreciated .
01-02-2013, 01:21 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
How you handle hides will depend upon the species.
Here is everything you need to know:
Fur Harvesters Pelt Handling Manual
In general, I run coyotes, bobcats, and coons cased and fur out (backwards of the manual, which suggests coons should be fur in). Meeting your local fur buyers needs is the most important aspect. Some buyers would rather take raw pelts or full carcasses than a poorly fleshed and dried hide (ruined hide). Some buyers won't take anything but dried hides.
To case, cut around all four ankles/wrists, hang the animal on a gambrel, then cut from ankle to ankle on the backlegs. I go between the anus and tail. Peel the hide off like a sock, pulling it inside out as you go. Use a 3-4" lightweight knife with a drop point blade and rounded "belly" to make smooth cuts of connective tissue as you go. Ideally, you won't need a knife to do most of the work. Be VERY careful as you come offthe front legs, and the head. Pay close attention to the facial features, eyes, ears, and mouth. Leaving perfect ears, eyelids, and lips isn't important, but it DOES prove to your fur buyer that you are taking your time and doing it right.
I used to use Minnesota Trapline Products fleshing tools and draw knives, but did BETTER with homemade tools (chainsaw bars make fantastic fleshing tools). Starting out, buy tools/knives, then you'll learn what you need and can improve them as you go.
Tools you'll need:
Sturdy fur hanger/Fur shed: Don't just use the rafters in your garage. A few hundred hides later and your garage will creak and crack like crazy. Reinforce it if you can, or use a dedicated rack. You'll want somewhere warm to skin in, with somewhere cold nearby to store carcasses until you're ready. A space heater in a cold building works nice-cold until you need it to be warm.
Gambrel: You'll need something to hang them from. I don't actually use Gambrels. I use a piece of pipe/conduit with baling wire at both ends that's hung in the fur shed (part of the garage now). I don't like my carcasses to spin or tilt, so I use the pipe with two hanging points, rather than a gambrel hung from one point. My uncle uses a piece of pipe with two lengths of paracord tied to small metal rings. He pulls a loop through the ring, hangs the carcass in the loops. Whatever works for you.
Multiple knives for skinning: I like 3-4" blades with drop point blades. Bigger knives are worthless as you only use a limited portion of the blade, and they're just heavy for nothing. You also lose dexterity and control the further your hand gets from your work.
Knife sharpeners: Your knives need to be sharp, period. I keep multiple knives for this reason, so I can get through a few hides without sharpening, but obviously they need to be sharpened at some point.
Stretching boards and tacks: You'll need multiple boards on which to stretch and flesh your hides. Tacks or nails to hold the hides in place as you work. Some guys use wire stretchers. I'm not as big of a fan, other than just for drying.
Fleshing tool: Weird looking tool, but very handy for scraping hides. There are several variations on this tool, I prefer a handle backed square blade, but lots of guys do very well with T handle versions.
Draw knife: two handled, rounded blade knife for scraping. I actually did well with wood working draw knives for a long time, but they are VERY easy to ruin hides if you aren't careful.
Dawn Dishwashing soap: animal fat, coon fat especially, is nasty slick, and blood is acidic. You need to clean and oil your blades after you finish up.
Salt: You'll need salt, and lots of it, to dry your hides. Rock salt (driveway) works fine, non-iodized table salt works better, but is expensive. Iodized salt works fine, but leaves a yellowed tinge to your hides.
Fur comb: Comb out mats, loose hair, burrs, seeds, etc etc. Get the fur fluffed and looking good for the buyer.
Wash Basin: Some guys don't, but most fur harvesters wash their hides to get out blood, dirt, mud, etc. Most fur harvesters wives don't appreciate them doing it in the kitchen sink. Also nice for washing up knives, hands, etc.
Rubber Gloves: Most guys wear them. I just use Nitrile rubber gloves (like latex, but more durable and less allergic reaction risk).
That's not EVERYTHING I use, but the rest is gravy. I know I'm probably forgetting something important too, but that should do it to get you started at least.
Here is everything you need to know:
Fur Harvesters Pelt Handling Manual
In general, I run coyotes, bobcats, and coons cased and fur out (backwards of the manual, which suggests coons should be fur in). Meeting your local fur buyers needs is the most important aspect. Some buyers would rather take raw pelts or full carcasses than a poorly fleshed and dried hide (ruined hide). Some buyers won't take anything but dried hides.
To case, cut around all four ankles/wrists, hang the animal on a gambrel, then cut from ankle to ankle on the backlegs. I go between the anus and tail. Peel the hide off like a sock, pulling it inside out as you go. Use a 3-4" lightweight knife with a drop point blade and rounded "belly" to make smooth cuts of connective tissue as you go. Ideally, you won't need a knife to do most of the work. Be VERY careful as you come offthe front legs, and the head. Pay close attention to the facial features, eyes, ears, and mouth. Leaving perfect ears, eyelids, and lips isn't important, but it DOES prove to your fur buyer that you are taking your time and doing it right.
I used to use Minnesota Trapline Products fleshing tools and draw knives, but did BETTER with homemade tools (chainsaw bars make fantastic fleshing tools). Starting out, buy tools/knives, then you'll learn what you need and can improve them as you go.
Tools you'll need:
Sturdy fur hanger/Fur shed: Don't just use the rafters in your garage. A few hundred hides later and your garage will creak and crack like crazy. Reinforce it if you can, or use a dedicated rack. You'll want somewhere warm to skin in, with somewhere cold nearby to store carcasses until you're ready. A space heater in a cold building works nice-cold until you need it to be warm.
Gambrel: You'll need something to hang them from. I don't actually use Gambrels. I use a piece of pipe/conduit with baling wire at both ends that's hung in the fur shed (part of the garage now). I don't like my carcasses to spin or tilt, so I use the pipe with two hanging points, rather than a gambrel hung from one point. My uncle uses a piece of pipe with two lengths of paracord tied to small metal rings. He pulls a loop through the ring, hangs the carcass in the loops. Whatever works for you.
Multiple knives for skinning: I like 3-4" blades with drop point blades. Bigger knives are worthless as you only use a limited portion of the blade, and they're just heavy for nothing. You also lose dexterity and control the further your hand gets from your work.
Knife sharpeners: Your knives need to be sharp, period. I keep multiple knives for this reason, so I can get through a few hides without sharpening, but obviously they need to be sharpened at some point.
Stretching boards and tacks: You'll need multiple boards on which to stretch and flesh your hides. Tacks or nails to hold the hides in place as you work. Some guys use wire stretchers. I'm not as big of a fan, other than just for drying.
Fleshing tool: Weird looking tool, but very handy for scraping hides. There are several variations on this tool, I prefer a handle backed square blade, but lots of guys do very well with T handle versions.
Draw knife: two handled, rounded blade knife for scraping. I actually did well with wood working draw knives for a long time, but they are VERY easy to ruin hides if you aren't careful.
Dawn Dishwashing soap: animal fat, coon fat especially, is nasty slick, and blood is acidic. You need to clean and oil your blades after you finish up.
Salt: You'll need salt, and lots of it, to dry your hides. Rock salt (driveway) works fine, non-iodized table salt works better, but is expensive. Iodized salt works fine, but leaves a yellowed tinge to your hides.
Fur comb: Comb out mats, loose hair, burrs, seeds, etc etc. Get the fur fluffed and looking good for the buyer.
Wash Basin: Some guys don't, but most fur harvesters wash their hides to get out blood, dirt, mud, etc. Most fur harvesters wives don't appreciate them doing it in the kitchen sink. Also nice for washing up knives, hands, etc.
Rubber Gloves: Most guys wear them. I just use Nitrile rubber gloves (like latex, but more durable and less allergic reaction risk).
That's not EVERYTHING I use, but the rest is gravy. I know I'm probably forgetting something important too, but that should do it to get you started at least.
