statjunk

You know at this point I'm just not sure what I want out of this rifle. I bought it for two reasons. One I wanted a short carbine like hunting rifle that might fair a slightly better chance in the brush. I also wanted something other than a .30-30. If this rifle is capable of some real nice accuracy then it could become a range gun.

I don't know how recoil sensitive I am but I can shoot 30+ rounds of 300WM on a range session and the only rifle I've willingly shot that I don't really like shooting are Turkey Loads.

I'm going to start with Tommy's suggestions and see what it's like. If I feel like I couldn't comfortably shoot at least 10-15 rounds then I'll likely load it down. I always bring my .22 with me to the range to calm myself down if I get the gitters.

Tom

Pavomesa

Nothing wrong with your plan, Stat. Bottom line is you and the gun have to get along and agree on what works for both of you. 45/70s not a long range hunting rifle by any stretch but inside 100 yds or so it will dang sure get their attention.

I'll be glad to here some range reports.

HEAD0001

Man if you are hunting within 100 yards then 1200 fps is more than adequate to knock a deer on his butt. And a 1200 fps load is a *****cat to shoot. The recoil at 1400 fps is very little. High velocity is not necessary when shooting a 405 grain bullet or larger. And trajectory is no problem when you limit yourself to 100 yards. The slow loads will shoot every bit as good as the heavy loads. IMO most people tend to overload the 45-70.

You bought a rifle that is a hoot to shoot. If you cast your own bullets it is also a very inexpensive rifle to shoot, once you have all the basics(which you said you have). Drop that load down and put a couple of hundred bullets down range. That is what I do. Tom.

bigcountry

Here is what I can't figure out about this forum. Why is it so important that someone shoots the load you shoot?We have gotten well past "need" when we moved to shooting any projectile faster than 900fps. Rest of it is fun.

Your in no way obligated to answer. I am just curious why people cares so much what others shoot.

statjunk

Hey guys,

I just resized 20 cases. Now I'm onto the neck expander using the M-die. How do you know when the case is flared. I have the stem turned all the way down and there is no obvious flare. I have taken a bullet and stuck it in the case mouth and it goes in with relative ease. Does that mean I'm there?

Help here would be appreciated. Assume I know nothing.

Tom

statjunk

Another issue! I just put in a primer backwards. Can I use the sizer die to push it out safely or is the brass wasted?

Thanks

Tom

statjunk

All right another stumbling block. Do I need to seat the bullet first and then crimp or is this done in one shot?

Tom

bigcountry

Ok, first thing. You adjust your M-Die until you can push the bullet in about 1/32" or less and you can tell it will go in without shaving the copper. In other words, take a new case, thats sized, and you can see the bullet will not go in at all and if you forced it it would shave the copper.

Second. Resize the case to get the primer out. Or the simple way is to remove the deprime from your die, and push it out by hand. Either way.

If you have a separate crimper, then separate. I just use the crimper built in the seater. So I set up my die to seat and crimp same time.

Some pistol calibers, I use a separate operation like the 40S&W where I have a crimp die.

statjunk

BC,

Thanks for the advice. Could you walk me through the process of setting up my seating die to do both at the same time?

Thanks

Tom

statjunk

Ok I started messing with it and I'm not quite there yet. I seated a bullet to the suggested OAL of 2.55". The last groove in the bullet is still outside the case. Should I continue to push the bullet into the case until I get the brass lined up to that groove?

Thanks

Tom