Ruger-Redhawk

Like Rebel Hog and Strut both have mentioned. A heated rod or heat lamp is a must.Moisture in these safes can and will cause allot of damage.I use the Golden Rods in mine.They work great.Most shooter suppliers carry them at a much more reasonable price, then the safe companies offer them for.I got mine through Midshouth. Depending on the length you need they run between 25.00 and 30.00 bucks.A small investment to protect your bigger investment.

Ruger Redhawk

rick_reno

I have a Fort Knox safe and I'm not happy with the way the door is hung. It's a little crooked - I spent a lot of time on the phone with a fellow at their factory and it's still screwed up.

Ruger-Redhawk

I have a Old Pro Steel.Apparently it was dropped in shipment. There is a crease up on the top of one of the sides.It wasn't hurting anything. It's been that way for over 20 years.After a attempted break in it got skinned up.If I ever decide to repaint it I'll bang that crease out..I can see where a door being hung crooked could cause concerns.Fort Knox are suppose to be one of the top of the lines.I hope you can get this resolved.

Ruger Redhawk

Rebel Hog

Rick, when the door is Opened at 90 degrees can it be lifted off the Hinges? Some can and some can't.
If it can, try installing a couple SS washers where needed. Are the bolts hard to throw back when you turn the
handle or wheel? Most handles and wheels are shear pinned for so many pounds of force, in case of attcak.
If it shears you will have to call a safe man that's familiar with that make of safe and is properly tooled
for the job, or he will make it look like Swiss Cheese. Even if he is a professtional, he is still going to have
to take it to the shop to plug it with carbide tapered pins or pieces of carbide drill bits, weld it and paint it.
You will have no door on the safe for 4 to 5 days,
All because of a sheared handle pin. At least onece a year vacuum the bottom bolt holes on your safe
and a Light Coat of Lubi-Plate or White Grease on all bolts. Never oil the combo lock! If oil gets between
the wheel pack it will create a VACUUM between the wheels and ALL wheels will turn at the same time.
Quess what......YEP!....another CALL.
$200 for the first hour and $45 for each additional hour, plus cost and materials and does'nt cover shop
work to repair door,that's additional!

Rebel Hog

Jones, YES they do!....American "Star" Security out of Calif. {AMSEC.}
Their top safe's have 1" of steel not sheet metal on 5 sides and 1 1/2" steel doors not sheet metal
and Sargent & Greenleaf combo locks and protected with carbide MATIX plates and Glass Relockers.
You can also get Diebold and Mosler out of Ohio. Anything else is a fire proof gun LOCKER and not a safe.
Yes, I know most gun owners buy whats affordable and I don't BLAME them.
All the the others I can open in about 1 and ahalf hours and the one's I mentioned, it will take about 5 to 6
hours with help because I am not berglurising it, I have to get it opened proffesionately.

If you don't have one of these, I strongly would follow RugerRedHawk's advice!

Sniper151

I like the Liberty safe. Fire resistant, rolling lock bars and the thief that carries this thing out of my basement I would not argue with. Weight without the guns is over 1,500 lbs. It's bolted to a slab poured just for the base. Any animal that can get this thing loose and up 10 steps earned the safe, but his still won't get it open without the combination.

Rebel Hog

DITTO......RUGER....

Ruger-Redhawk

Rebel Hog, Since you were in the safe business I have a question.When my ProSteel was attacked. The shear pin was sheared.I called ProSteel about a new shear pin.I got nowhere.I have a cotter pin in it now. I think it would shear but not sure.What would you recommend putting in it?If I remember correctly it's approx a 1/4" hole in the handle.Could you tell me where I might order the correct pin?And or what would you recommend putting in it? I had a aluminum wire that was undersized. There was allot of slop in the handle.The cotter pin tightened the handle but my concern is if it will shear again if another attempted break in occurs.I had to laugh when the locksmith came out to open it he asked for the combo.He made a paper dial.It opened.Then his guy I don't know from Adam says he forgot to bring something from his shop. My safe is opened and he asked if I would run to his shop for the thing he forgot.I don't think so.The next day the safe was gone to my brothers house. I'm impressed with my ProSteel. The thug sheared the pin,tried prying the dail off,but it kept him out.That right there paid for the safe.I recommend any gun owner to invest in a safe and a alarm system.It only takes one time to clean you out.

Thanks for your help Rebel Hog.

Ruger Redhawk

jones123

Thanks rebelhog. I sure couldn't find any that would come close to competing when I shopped. If I'd knowed then, I sure woulda supported American made; I always try to do so.

I will take ruger's advice.

Where were you when I was buying my safe?

jones123

How dare you doubt ME!

Just kidding. Thanks for that bit of info. I could have been more specific. My safe says "CENTURION . . . by Liberty" on the front door. I thought I was stealing an American made safe for a bargain $500. The packing box and labels clearly said made in China. Apparently Liberty has a knock-off like so many others (?).

Unless, by wild chance, only the box and labels were made in China?