Floating and Bedding Sporters?
#11
I know you are anxious to tear into that rifle, but I would take a cautious approach. Shoot it first. Check it with several loads. If the accuracy with the factory setup is not acceptable, you might then conside rebedding, floating, etc. If it will shoot approximately 1 moa, I would leave it alone. It will probably improve some when the barrel breaks in, or with other loads. In a public forum what one hears is "do what I did, it is great". What one does not hear is "I totally screwed it up".
On another note, I'm no stranger to bedding stocks, it's just been a long time since I dealt with a sporterweight rifle. As one might notice from my postings around here, I'm a dyed in the wool heavy barrel fan, so everything in my safe that CAN be bedded, IS bedded. I'd guess I've bedded nearly 100 rifles in the last 10yrs or so, but having a "new" sporter in the house is like an episode of Sesame Street, "One of these things, doesn't belong here..."
I guess my interest was more in the current opinion around the forum about pressure bedding vs. action bedding for sporter weight rifles. I've never really bought into pressure bedding, except for rifles with barrel bands, but some of the guys around the range really swear by it.
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,143
Thanks for info guys.My other question is about the barrel floating.I should be able to slide a dollar bill under the barrel & move it from the beginning of the barrel out the end of the foregrip correct.
There should be no contact between the barrel and stock from beginning to end.Because there is contact at the very end of the foregrip,the dollar bill will not slide out the end.
There should be no contact between the barrel and stock from beginning to end.Because there is contact at the very end of the foregrip,the dollar bill will not slide out the end.