bigbulls

WOW! This guy has talent. You gotta take a look at this blank. If I had money to burn I would have to have this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/GUNSTOCK-BLANK-/...#ht_500wt_1156

Vapodog

$3,000???????

Hey....everyone to their own....if ya like it and have the cash then go for it.

Personally I think it's about $3,050 overpriced as a gunstock blank!

BTW....it's a very well done work of art....someone took a lot of time and patience with it.....but a Rembrandt....it is not!

popeye3

Its definately different. Somebody spent alot of time putting it together but I dont think I would pay 3k for it

statjunk

I think it's really nice. I just couldn't come to the decision to buy a wood blank for that kind of money and then trust someone to turn it.

How much do you think it would cost to turn into a stock? Lets say a Winchester style straight comb hunting stock.

Tom

Pawildman

.... If it was cut to rough gunstock blank style and put on a stock duplicating machine, it could be turned to rough inletted for about $125.00, I would assume. The final inletting, if done by yourself, is only your time. If done by an experienced maker, the price is totally open...

jeepkid

That's a pretty good looking stick of wood! I wouldn't pay $3,000 for it, but probably $1,000...

8mm/06

I'm not a gunsmith or a stock maker, but wouldn't a stock made of so many different pieces have less strength than a piece of wood with a directional grain?

Just asking, cuz I really don't know, but suspect it would be weaker.

Pawildman

....... Not at all. Laminated stocks have a far less tendency to warp or twist than a straight-grained stock. Hence the reason you see a lot of bench-rest and heavy varmint rigs wearing laminated..... even the sporting industry now offers a selection.

8mm/06

Yes, I understand about laminated stocks, but aren't they always laminated in a directional pattern. I don't ever think I've seen a stock with so much checkerboarding and patterning like that.
A little for decoration but not that much. Live and learn I guess.

It just seems you'd be asking all the strength from the glue and not much from the wood.

I mean, if I laid three 1"x3"s that were 4 ' long together and glued them up I'd expect them to be stronger than one solid 4' piece of 3"x3". But I wouldn't expect that 16 3"x3" square blocks glued end to end to create a 48" long piece would be very strong.

Thanks how that piece strikes me. Pretty but iffy.

jeepkid

From the eBay link:

"Q: Hi, I'm just curious how you intend for the forend to stay together after the stock is inletted for the action/barrel. I see you have a strengthening rib (the only thing running lengthwise in the piece), but most of it will be removed when the barrel channel is cut...A: AHHHHH! I've been waiting for this question and thank you for getting to the "heart" of this piece. If you work with wood you will know that properly laminated (gluing and clamping) wood is stronger than wood by itself. The Fiddleback Maple strongback runs throughout (length & width) the lighter woods for stablization up until the darker woods. 99.99% of the stocks grain runs fore and aft to transfer the muzzel energy throughout the blank like a natural grain stock does, the glue lines between layers act as shock absorbers much in the same way a martial artist is able to break through multible slabs of concrete stone, the air spaces allow the "transfer" and ultimately the "absorbsion" of the energy. In addition the glue used replaces the air in the woods grain pores to create a "denser" stock. When you barrel this stock you will lose the top Fiddleback detail but it will continue in the underbelly and shoulder stock. A lot of thought went into this design and thank you for asking."