Please Help! AR-15
12-06-2010, 06:45 AM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,405
Please Help! AR-15
I have a Colt a2 Sporter II and I am very curious on if this is a pre or post ban AR?
I do not know that much about what that means but I hear it used a lot. Also, does anyone know if I can put a new upper on it such as a DPMS upper? I really want to get a 1 in 9" bull barrel rather than the 1 in 7" that is on there. I know there is some talk about Colt's pins being bigger but I do not really understand all of that. Thanks guys!
I do not know that much about what that means but I hear it used a lot. Also, does anyone know if I can put a new upper on it such as a DPMS upper? I really want to get a 1 in 9" bull barrel rather than the 1 in 7" that is on there. I know there is some talk about Colt's pins being bigger but I do not really understand all of that. Thanks guys!
12-06-2010, 01:57 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
RR beat me to it... Pre and post ban doesn't mean anything anymore, and the off-set pins to mate the old colt lowers to new uppers (not sure if new colt receivers are still bigger screws, but my old colt lower needs offset screws). Alternatively, older colt uppers require a bushing to be mate up with non-old colt lowers.
All that said, it sounds like you're really just looking to re-barrel your rifle, not that you're looking for a quick change rifle. A new upper will run between $450-800, while a new barrel can be had for $175-300 and changed out either by you or a good buddy with a little more experience in about an hour (or 20min once you get used to it). Get a set of go/no-go gauges and double check the headspacing and you're good to go. A gunsmith will rebarrel an AR for about $60 around here, so that's another option, $250 is a lot cheaper than $600...
All that said, it sounds like you're really just looking to re-barrel your rifle, not that you're looking for a quick change rifle. A new upper will run between $450-800, while a new barrel can be had for $175-300 and changed out either by you or a good buddy with a little more experience in about an hour (or 20min once you get used to it). Get a set of go/no-go gauges and double check the headspacing and you're good to go. A gunsmith will rebarrel an AR for about $60 around here, so that's another option, $250 is a lot cheaper than $600...
12-06-2010, 05:27 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,405
Oh wow, yeah that would be nice! except for the fact that i really want a flat top since mine has the carry handle, so that kind of stinks. It would be nice to have that. What do you guys think? Is it hard to get ahold of some offset pins?
12-06-2010, 07:19 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=316328
There ya go... offset pins, "should ship tomorrow", for $4.
There ya go... offset pins, "should ship tomorrow", for $4.
12-06-2010, 07:51 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
Here's a stripped receiver also... re-use all of your other internal parts from the old upper, slap on the new barrel, and you're good to go. Probably take you about 5hrs to do the rebuild if you get a book to follow along with. I can build one a lot faster, but I've done a few.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=589236
$125 for the receiver, $200 for a barrel, $8 for pins, and a rainy saturday and you're good to go...
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=589236
$125 for the receiver, $200 for a barrel, $8 for pins, and a rainy saturday and you're good to go...
12-08-2010, 06:02 PM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,915
If you ordered a barrel that takes a rifle length gas tube and that has the same dia gas block as your old rifle, then you should be able to re-use your existing gas tube and gas block.
The only special tools you will need will be a torque wrench and barrel nut wrench (to properly tension the barrel) and a handguard removal tool to remove your handguard. A receiver block is handy, but if you're only going to do this ONE job, then you can pad your vise with rags, cardboard, or leather to avoid marring your receiver in the vise.
If you don't want to buy a handgaurd removal tool, you can pull down on the delta ring by hand, but it's pretty difficult. If you put the butt of the rifle (REMOVE THE BOLT CARRIER ASSEMBLY FROM THE RIFLE FIRST TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE) on the ground, then pull down on the delta ring (tapered ring at the rear of the handguard), you should be able to remove the clamshell handguard on your own. A helper is incredibly helpful though.
The only special tools you will need will be a torque wrench and barrel nut wrench (to properly tension the barrel) and a handguard removal tool to remove your handguard. A receiver block is handy, but if you're only going to do this ONE job, then you can pad your vise with rags, cardboard, or leather to avoid marring your receiver in the vise.
If you don't want to buy a handgaurd removal tool, you can pull down on the delta ring by hand, but it's pretty difficult. If you put the butt of the rifle (REMOVE THE BOLT CARRIER ASSEMBLY FROM THE RIFLE FIRST TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE) on the ground, then pull down on the delta ring (tapered ring at the rear of the handguard), you should be able to remove the clamshell handguard on your own. A helper is incredibly helpful though.