Something to consider
#12
Can the new hunter that just bought a 30-30 and can barely hit a pie plate at 100 yards?
#13
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 220
I have had a very successful hunting career and in my 33 years of hunting, I have managed to take 200 Whitetail deer.
I have shot every round from the .22 short to the big 375 H&H in my lifetime at paper targets. So I have a pretty fair baseline of knowing ballistics and firepower in the woods.
In all my attempts to shoot whitetails, I have only kicked myself in the butt about missing a deer - maybe 10 times. Out of those 10 times, 5 of those times were due to the optics and not because I was under-gunned.
The one and only time I was under gunned, it was with a .35 Remington and the deer was 300 yards away and Buck Fever took over and my mind was not working like it should. If I would have aimed dead center on the deer on every shot, there was a pretty good chance that I would have hit it sooner or later.
If I would have had more shells and not just the 5 rounds I took with me that day, I would have kept shooting till the buck was down.
If the property next to where I was hunting was not posted, I would have kept after that deer until I got it.
If my aunt would have had a schlong, she would have been my Uncle.
On opening day of rifle season - anywhere for whitetails, I can usually be found carrying a Remington Gamemaster 30-06 or .270
After the opening day of rifle season, I can usually be found carrying a .300 Winchester magnum - if I know that I will be hunting in a open area where long shots presents itself. Or my .270 WSM.
I have a gun for when it is raining, I have a gun for when I am hunting in the open, I have a gun for hunting where it is close up and personal, I have a gun for long shots..
When firepower is in the front of my mind, the '06 and 270 can't be beat. When accuracy is key - the '06 and 270 can't be beat.
But if I want to make sure that if I hit it, it will go down and I won't have to track it or fight with another hunter over who shot it and would it have died if they didn't shoot it after I shot it, the magnum is the way to go.
I only bought the .300 Winchester in case I ever got the chance to go Elk hunting and not because I thought that it was a better gun then the Remington when it came to hunting deer anywhere on the eastern side of the USA!
Maybe it would be a better round for bears.
Most times when you hunt bears, the bear is really close and you have a split second to shoot or not shoot. A 30-30 with open sights is probably a better gun for that situation.
As far as reloading a Magnum for pennies more then the 30-06, I will call you out on that one.
To reload, first you have to buy the die's. Then you have to have the empty shells, then you have to buy Magnum primers. Then you have to have more powder for each round.
The bullets are exactly the same between my 30-06 and a .300 Winchester Magnum, but the factory loads cost twice as much.
Let's say IMR 4350 powder is about $24 a can, for a one pound can.
Let's say, as a example that you can get 100 rounds of '06 shells out of a 1 pound can, depending on how you load the shell.
We can use 58 Grains as a example.
When I move up to a .300 Winchester Magnum, it might take as much as 75 Grains of powder to reload just one shell. Every time I reload (3) - 300 WM - I could have reloaded (4) 30-06's.
I have shot every round from the .22 short to the big 375 H&H in my lifetime at paper targets. So I have a pretty fair baseline of knowing ballistics and firepower in the woods.
In all my attempts to shoot whitetails, I have only kicked myself in the butt about missing a deer - maybe 10 times. Out of those 10 times, 5 of those times were due to the optics and not because I was under-gunned.
The one and only time I was under gunned, it was with a .35 Remington and the deer was 300 yards away and Buck Fever took over and my mind was not working like it should. If I would have aimed dead center on the deer on every shot, there was a pretty good chance that I would have hit it sooner or later.
If I would have had more shells and not just the 5 rounds I took with me that day, I would have kept shooting till the buck was down.
If the property next to where I was hunting was not posted, I would have kept after that deer until I got it.
If my aunt would have had a schlong, she would have been my Uncle.
On opening day of rifle season - anywhere for whitetails, I can usually be found carrying a Remington Gamemaster 30-06 or .270
After the opening day of rifle season, I can usually be found carrying a .300 Winchester magnum - if I know that I will be hunting in a open area where long shots presents itself. Or my .270 WSM.
I have a gun for when it is raining, I have a gun for when I am hunting in the open, I have a gun for hunting where it is close up and personal, I have a gun for long shots..
When firepower is in the front of my mind, the '06 and 270 can't be beat. When accuracy is key - the '06 and 270 can't be beat.
But if I want to make sure that if I hit it, it will go down and I won't have to track it or fight with another hunter over who shot it and would it have died if they didn't shoot it after I shot it, the magnum is the way to go.
I only bought the .300 Winchester in case I ever got the chance to go Elk hunting and not because I thought that it was a better gun then the Remington when it came to hunting deer anywhere on the eastern side of the USA!
Maybe it would be a better round for bears.
Most times when you hunt bears, the bear is really close and you have a split second to shoot or not shoot. A 30-30 with open sights is probably a better gun for that situation.
As far as reloading a Magnum for pennies more then the 30-06, I will call you out on that one.
To reload, first you have to buy the die's. Then you have to have the empty shells, then you have to buy Magnum primers. Then you have to have more powder for each round.
The bullets are exactly the same between my 30-06 and a .300 Winchester Magnum, but the factory loads cost twice as much.
Let's say IMR 4350 powder is about $24 a can, for a one pound can.
Let's say, as a example that you can get 100 rounds of '06 shells out of a 1 pound can, depending on how you load the shell.
We can use 58 Grains as a example.
When I move up to a .300 Winchester Magnum, it might take as much as 75 Grains of powder to reload just one shell. Every time I reload (3) - 300 WM - I could have reloaded (4) 30-06's.
#14
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 608
Second, a new or inexperience hunter should have a mentor/teacher to help guide them and show them the ins and outs of hunting ethically and safely. A lot of hunting tragedies are due to poor decisions by inexperienced hunters or by carelessness of idiots who do not care about the safety and welfare of others.
#15
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 608
The one and only time I was under gunned, it was with a .35 Remington and the deer was 300 yards away and Buck Fever took over and my mind was not working like it should. If I would have aimed dead center on the deer on every shot, there was a pretty good chance that I would have hit it sooner or later.
If I would have had more shells and not just the 5 rounds I took with me that day, I would have kept shooting till the buck was down.
...
When firepower is in the front of my mind, the '06 and 270 can't be beat. When accuracy is key - the '06 and 270 can't be beat.
But if I want to make sure that if I hit it, it will go down and I won't have to track it or fight with another hunter over who shot it and would it have died if they didn't shoot it after I shot it, the magnum is the way to go.
#16
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 797
Nothing wrong with starting out with a 30-30 for a young hunter. I started out myself with a 30-30 and a 25-06. I always thought the 30-30 kicked harder in that ole lever gun when I was young. I still have a 30-30 for those days I want to hunt the trees in the blowing snow. But I also have other calibers for doing that also. There's a ton of calibers out there that make perfect starters. Depends on the person and how much recoil they are tolerable of at first. You sure wouldn't want to hand your young child or wife your 300 RUM and say here try this one out as their very first experience at shooting. I haven't tried out the Leverlution ammo yet but I do have a box of it waiting to go to the range. I'm curious on a 300 yard grouping. We shall see.
#17
JMHO ,Anything over 400 yards is long range hunting.(Stay with me for a minute Ridge.........LOL)And if the truth be known I would guess that at least 85% of the hunters don't even have the skill or the ability to even shoot/hunt that far away.Now ,That being said once you get over 500 or 600 yards you have a whole new ball game.You have to start thinking ballistics,wind drift and a host of other things,B.C.,weather,curvature of the earth,alignment of the stars(J/K) but you get my drift .Pun intended.Anything over 600 or 700 yards is ultra-long range in my opinion.Safety is first and foremost the most important thing.If you see a little brown dot waaaay the hell out there and just start blasting away,you don't have a clue what's around that little brown dot let alone what's behind it.If you can't hit a pie plate off hand at 100 yards you don't need to be shooting 100 yards.If you can't it at 200 from the bench you don't need to be shooting at 200.Like "Dirty Harry" said,"A man has got to know his limitations"Personally I think I am pretty decent shooter.And I probably wont take a 500 yard shot.Conditions would have to be what in my mind should be perfect.I am hesitant to go 300.Most can't even judge 300 without some kind of ranging device.Now I have rifles that are capable of 1000 yards that even Ridge (probably) could not hit with just for the simple fact that they are not set up for that kind of distance,And he is most likely the best ultra-long range hunter on the board.Not questioning his ability but my equipment.Say for instance my 7MM STW with 3.5 X10X50 Leupold Vari-XIII I most likely can hit a deer at 400 or 500 with it but get out to a 1000 and it needs a lot more goodies on it and with it before it would be a true 1000 yard gun.
#18
As much as we all respect and revere experienced hunters, deer hunting REALLY isn't that complicated, and bringing down a deer really isn't that difficult.
There's no secret to putting yourself in the path of big bucks.
I'm no professional hunter, but I've been hunting deer and other big game for well over a decade. Outside of hunting, I'm a precision rifle and handgun competitor, and I have dedicated much of the last 10yrs to helping teach marksmanship skills to others.
The average new shooter/hunter is capable of 3" groups at 100yrds with the average "newbie rifle".
Personally, I think there are 3 things new shooters/hunters need to know: 1) how to recognize their limitations, 2) how to estimate ranges (or where to buy a rangefinder) and 3) how to recognize deer sign and where to place their stands. At the end of the day, a shooter really only needs to know how to get deer in front of them, how to tell HOW far in front of them it is, and how to put a bullet into it.
No magic tricks, just 3 simple steps.
There's no secret to putting yourself in the path of big bucks.
I'm no professional hunter, but I've been hunting deer and other big game for well over a decade. Outside of hunting, I'm a precision rifle and handgun competitor, and I have dedicated much of the last 10yrs to helping teach marksmanship skills to others.
The average new shooter/hunter is capable of 3" groups at 100yrds with the average "newbie rifle".
Personally, I think there are 3 things new shooters/hunters need to know: 1) how to recognize their limitations, 2) how to estimate ranges (or where to buy a rangefinder) and 3) how to recognize deer sign and where to place their stands. At the end of the day, a shooter really only needs to know how to get deer in front of them, how to tell HOW far in front of them it is, and how to put a bullet into it.
No magic tricks, just 3 simple steps.