Barrel break-in
05-06-2003, 11:29 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: E. Washington State
Posts: 1,045
RE: Barrel break-in
I' m still looking for a good reason why you would have to " break-in" your new rifle barrel.
Seems to me that the steel of the barrel is much tougher than the copper of the bullet jacket so I can' t see any logic on breaking it in.
Now, in a new car, there is some logic to it. The rings (made of high carbon steel) have to slide against the inside of the cylinder several thousand times before they conform and fit in the bore. If you are too hard on them they won' t seal correctly and you' ll suffer performance later in the life of the engine. I can see the logic there. I don' t with breaking in a new rifle.
?? Anyone else??? I know this has probably been discussed a thousand times...
My main reason for really watching this post is I have a brand new Tikka that I' ve had a week and still not shot once. I' m actually saving for a Vari-X III but once I have it I' ll be a shootin' fool!
Seems to me that the steel of the barrel is much tougher than the copper of the bullet jacket so I can' t see any logic on breaking it in.
Now, in a new car, there is some logic to it. The rings (made of high carbon steel) have to slide against the inside of the cylinder several thousand times before they conform and fit in the bore. If you are too hard on them they won' t seal correctly and you' ll suffer performance later in the life of the engine. I can see the logic there. I don' t with breaking in a new rifle.
?? Anyone else??? I know this has probably been discussed a thousand times...
My main reason for really watching this post is I have a brand new Tikka that I' ve had a week and still not shot once. I' m actually saving for a Vari-X III but once I have it I' ll be a shootin' fool!
05-06-2003, 11:58 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: E. Washington State
Posts: 1,045
RE: Barrel break-in
Did a little search on Google;
http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.htm (this says you' re wearing out your barrel faster)
http://yarchive.net/gun/barrel/break_in.html
There are a lot of barrel makers (usually with a pet cleaner) that tell you the full proceedure. Things are smelling more fishy all the time....
http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.htm (this says you' re wearing out your barrel faster)
http://yarchive.net/gun/barrel/break_in.html
There are a lot of barrel makers (usually with a pet cleaner) that tell you the full proceedure. Things are smelling more fishy all the time....
05-07-2003, 01:13 AM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tahlequah, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,584
RE: Barrel break-in
Thanks for the links Power. this is a copy/paste from butches bore shine website.
Barrel Break-in
There are many quality barrels manufactured by companies and individuals all over the country. Whether your barrel is factory produced or a hand lapped custom, proper break-in is an absolute must. Prior to firing your first round, it is imperative that you make an inspection of the barrel. Remove any dirt, grease, or foreign material from the bore. Always inspect the crown for any nicks or burrs. If you find any nicks or burrs contact the manufacturer. After concluding your cleaning and examination, coat the bore with your favorite gun oil. Do not use an oil that contains teflon. Fire one round and clean with three patches of BBS. Follow with two dry patches and a patch moistened with oil. I strongly recommend utilizing oil for barrel break-in. I always equate quality barrels to fine machinery; the bullet is the moving part. If you were to rebuild an automobile engine you would never start that engine without lubrication. There are some individuals who will shoot a barrel dry, but it is something I strongly discourage.
Fire a second round and clean again following the procedure above. Continue the regimen for a total of at least five shots. Factory barrels are always quite a bit rougher than custom barrels because they have not been hand lapped. They might require 10 shots or even more. Always examine the last wet patch for any sign of blue coloration which indicates copper. What we are looking for here is excessive copper. In breaking in a barrel we are trying to fill the microscopic pores and scratches that exist after manufacture with a coating of copper. If blue coloration persists or becomes excessive you might utilize a brush soaked with BBS. Here again remember that your brush will also leave copper and color the patch blue.
After completing between five and ten shots, or whenever your last patch shows no sign of blue coloration you can now shoot a three shot group. Follow with the same cleaning regimen after the group. While you are cleaning carefully examine the patches. What we are still concerned with is the copper. If you still continue to find a lot of blue coloration on your patches, shoot another three shot group and clean. Once you no longer find the presence of copper on your patches, and the bore feels smooth as you run through your patches, the procedure is complete. Your new barrel is now ready for service. It is a fine piece of machinery and should be maintained. Keep it cleaned and always shoot that first round over oil. ยป
There are many quality barrels manufactured by companies and individuals all over the country. Whether your barrel is factory produced or a hand lapped custom, proper break-in is an absolute must. Prior to firing your first round, it is imperative that you make an inspection of the barrel. Remove any dirt, grease, or foreign material from the bore. Always inspect the crown for any nicks or burrs. If you find any nicks or burrs contact the manufacturer. After concluding your cleaning and examination, coat the bore with your favorite gun oil. Do not use an oil that contains teflon. Fire one round and clean with three patches of BBS. Follow with two dry patches and a patch moistened with oil. I strongly recommend utilizing oil for barrel break-in. I always equate quality barrels to fine machinery; the bullet is the moving part. If you were to rebuild an automobile engine you would never start that engine without lubrication. There are some individuals who will shoot a barrel dry, but it is something I strongly discourage.
Fire a second round and clean again following the procedure above. Continue the regimen for a total of at least five shots. Factory barrels are always quite a bit rougher than custom barrels because they have not been hand lapped. They might require 10 shots or even more. Always examine the last wet patch for any sign of blue coloration which indicates copper. What we are looking for here is excessive copper. In breaking in a barrel we are trying to fill the microscopic pores and scratches that exist after manufacture with a coating of copper. If blue coloration persists or becomes excessive you might utilize a brush soaked with BBS. Here again remember that your brush will also leave copper and color the patch blue.
After completing between five and ten shots, or whenever your last patch shows no sign of blue coloration you can now shoot a three shot group. Follow with the same cleaning regimen after the group. While you are cleaning carefully examine the patches. What we are still concerned with is the copper. If you still continue to find a lot of blue coloration on your patches, shoot another three shot group and clean. Once you no longer find the presence of copper on your patches, and the bore feels smooth as you run through your patches, the procedure is complete. Your new barrel is now ready for service. It is a fine piece of machinery and should be maintained. Keep it cleaned and always shoot that first round over oil. ยป
05-07-2003, 08:32 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Barrel break-in
You know I would say it really depends on the reamer job done on your rifle. If you go to Kreiger' s website, or just about anywhere, they tell you how to do it.
Kreiger tells you, that you can tell if further break in is needed, when fouling gets to a reasonable point. I don' t know about you guys, but hey, these people make some of the best barrels in the world. Have many titles under theier barrels. Good solid reputation. Think I will take the advise of thiers before those of people that never has milled a barrel in thier life.
Kreiger tells you, that you can tell if further break in is needed, when fouling gets to a reasonable point. I don' t know about you guys, but hey, these people make some of the best barrels in the world. Have many titles under theier barrels. Good solid reputation. Think I will take the advise of thiers before those of people that never has milled a barrel in thier life.
05-07-2003, 09:42 AM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Olive Branch MS USA
Posts: 1,032
RE: Barrel break-in
A few years ago I fell for this break-in nonsense. I broke in several rifles the " proper" way. I hated doing it, but I wanted to do things right. Then I started reading the posts of Gale McMillan, a noted barrel maker who is now deceased. He thought barrel break-in was stupid and so, I quit doing it myself. Since I disliked doing it so much anyway, it was like almost like a gift to have an authority like Gale tell me I didn' t have to.
The two most accurate rifles I now own were not broken in. I simply cleaned them thoroughly (emphasis on " thoroughly" ) after each trip to the range (about 20 shots) and after two or three sessions at the range copper fouling decreased significantly. Now I clean for copper with a dedicated copper cleaner (Barnes CR-10) after ever 50 or 60 rounds. The main benefit for me is that I get more enjoyment out of new rifles not having to bother with the drudgery of " break-in" .
The two most accurate rifles I now own were not broken in. I simply cleaned them thoroughly (emphasis on " thoroughly" ) after each trip to the range (about 20 shots) and after two or three sessions at the range copper fouling decreased significantly. Now I clean for copper with a dedicated copper cleaner (Barnes CR-10) after ever 50 or 60 rounds. The main benefit for me is that I get more enjoyment out of new rifles not having to bother with the drudgery of " break-in" .
05-09-2003, 09:42 PM
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Gypsum KS USA
Posts: 1,289
RE: Barrel break-in
I' ve never taken much stock in barrel break-ins, however, I' ve done it on all of my guns, better safe than sorry I guess. Just getting into things myself, I hear a LOT of 1000yrd shooters and bench rest competitors talk of break in periods, and they follow them like gospel, but they live in a world where absolutely ANY imperfection in a bore can mean the difference in 1st place and dead last/shouldn' t have even spent the money on gas to drive out. Most of them also never brush their bore (neither do I, for that matter), why take the risk of scratching up a bore you spent thousands of dollars to get a mirror polish on?
I like to shoot, clean bore/chamber/bolt face, shoot, clean bore/chamber/bolt face, shoot clean...for about half a box, then I shoot 3rnds as fast as I can cycle (heating the barrel up) then swab with oiled patch, then 3rnd burst, then swab, then 3rnd burst, and swab twice, and see where the last bullet of the box goes compared to the first several shots. Then I clean it real good, and start into another box to get things sighted. On occasion I' ve used " break-in cmpds" of different sorts, and haven' t really noticed that they did any good (but I' ll never know how things would have been). Note, however, that when I say clean, in the first string of shots, I don' t mirror shine the bore every time, just get it to the point that the swabs come out more or less clean (not spotless). My first Ruger (as many of you know Ruger has a terrible reputation for being over bored) shoots better than any stock rifle should, giving .5MOA @ 100yrds, and .75MOA @200-500, and 1MOA @600-800yrds, not too shabby, and it was broken in like this.
I like to shoot, clean bore/chamber/bolt face, shoot, clean bore/chamber/bolt face, shoot clean...for about half a box, then I shoot 3rnds as fast as I can cycle (heating the barrel up) then swab with oiled patch, then 3rnd burst, then swab, then 3rnd burst, and swab twice, and see where the last bullet of the box goes compared to the first several shots. Then I clean it real good, and start into another box to get things sighted. On occasion I' ve used " break-in cmpds" of different sorts, and haven' t really noticed that they did any good (but I' ll never know how things would have been). Note, however, that when I say clean, in the first string of shots, I don' t mirror shine the bore every time, just get it to the point that the swabs come out more or less clean (not spotless). My first Ruger (as many of you know Ruger has a terrible reputation for being over bored) shoots better than any stock rifle should, giving .5MOA @ 100yrds, and .75MOA @200-500, and 1MOA @600-800yrds, not too shabby, and it was broken in like this.
05-09-2003, 10:17 PM
#18
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Montgomery AL USA
Posts: 134
RE: Barrel break-in
I didn' t " break in" my 454 Casull barrel (pistol barrel).
It became very fouled with copper.
I cleaned it. That took a long time.
The bore was then smoother.
It now shoots fine with minimal fouling.
Hunting loads exceed 1800fps.
End of story.
It became very fouled with copper.
I cleaned it. That took a long time.
The bore was then smoother.
It now shoots fine with minimal fouling.
Hunting loads exceed 1800fps.
End of story.
05-10-2003, 05:52 AM
#19
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dahlonega Ga. USA
Posts: 1,626
RE: Barrel break-in
To answer the first question, most gun manufacturers and solvent manufacturers reccomend a wet patch first then a brush when cleaning.
There was a good article a year or so ago in the American Rifleman magazine. It covered the whys and hows of " Breaking in" cleaning and other elements of barrel/bore care. Essentially, unless you are a competition shooter, the usually slight improvement you will notice with these exagerated cleaning and pre-shooting programs just are not worth the effort. If you have an accuracy problem, sometimes you can fix or improve it by doing some of these things up to and including fire lapping or hand lapping the bore. Copper " Fouling" should not be a problem out of the box and only rarely afterwards if normal barrel maintenance is practiced. Be careful of copper solvents as many of them rely on anhydrous ammonia to remove/loosen the copper fouling. Anhydrous ammonia, attracts moisture and unless completely removed from the bore and other surfaces will cause more trouble than the copper fouling. Many accuracy problems,particularly on high velocity rifles, are due more to damage to the throat of the barrel than to any fouling or lack of adequate bore cleaning.
There was a good article a year or so ago in the American Rifleman magazine. It covered the whys and hows of " Breaking in" cleaning and other elements of barrel/bore care. Essentially, unless you are a competition shooter, the usually slight improvement you will notice with these exagerated cleaning and pre-shooting programs just are not worth the effort. If you have an accuracy problem, sometimes you can fix or improve it by doing some of these things up to and including fire lapping or hand lapping the bore. Copper " Fouling" should not be a problem out of the box and only rarely afterwards if normal barrel maintenance is practiced. Be careful of copper solvents as many of them rely on anhydrous ammonia to remove/loosen the copper fouling. Anhydrous ammonia, attracts moisture and unless completely removed from the bore and other surfaces will cause more trouble than the copper fouling. Many accuracy problems,particularly on high velocity rifles, are due more to damage to the throat of the barrel than to any fouling or lack of adequate bore cleaning.
