Rodsmith

Looking for some info on what I need to do to get my Large Ring Mauser converted over to the new 35 Whelen barrel and stock I just bought ($60 for both) The barrel is still white and the action and barrel fit perfectly (snug) into the stock. I have access to a glass bead machine that I can clean the action up with (not the bolt) I do know I need to get the receiver drilled and tapped for a scope, maybe get the bolt bent to clear the scope but that is all I am sure of. What else would be the absolute necessity to have a safe shooter, not looking for anything fancy, just a good hunting rifle. Any insight as to cost would be greatly appreciated. Are there any tricks to getting the old barrel off the action? Also what do you all think about the camo dip fininhes like the Gander Mountain folks use? The price is right. Thanks in advance for any and all input.

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Wingbone

Looks like you've got about everything covered. You may have to convert the safety. The old wing safety will be a problem with a scope over it. How is the trigger? Those old mausers had a long take-up, 2 stage trigger you may want to replace. Drop-in trigger assemblies are easy to come by.

Rodsmith

Was just on the Midway site looking at the Timney drop in (no safety) dont want to spend alot, what is in converting the wing safety to a Timney with the safety other than the inlet to the stock.

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Rodsmith

I assume I need to get this headspaced, what about chamber ream and final bore lap. Are all of these necessary? As for the lap, can I just get the 3 stage grits from Midway and flame lap? (I assume the flame lap is actual firing the gun with the lapping compound in the bore) I have never taken on a gun project before (obviously) but am very good with my hands and have a rep of being able to make just about anything work. What part or parts of this process can I perform myself to cut cost.

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Briman

You will need a Barrel vise and a receiver wrench to get the old barrel off, Both can be bought from Brownell's. You will need to get a chamber reamer to finish ream the chamber. A set of headspace guages would be good to have too, thought the chamber can be reamed carefully until a loaded cartridge will chamber. Its best to have a gunsmith show you how to do this. Bolt bending- I've seen kits from ATI where you cut the bolt with a jig then clamp the bolt handle back onto the bolt body at a different angle. Apparantly it works, though it won't look as nice as having a professional cut/weld or bend the bolt. For finishing the barrel, I have used Birchwood Casey browning solution, its fairly easy to do and leaves a nice dark brown finish, their are also kits for blueing also.

Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms... who's bringing the chips?

Rem. 222

Rod,
As for firelapping, I wouldn't do it until after you break the barrel in. It may not need it. Since you have access to a beadblaster, that makes a good finish for a barrel also, plus it takes cold bluing better. Brownells sells an excellent cold blue, (I can't think what it's called) . Make sure you plug the barrel before beadblasting. Good luck with your project. One tip on cold bluing if you have a way of heating the barreled action it will take the bluing better.

Rem. 222

Rodsmith

Thanks 222
I think I will blast the entire action and get the "Parkerize" look. I assume that the machine surfaces on the interior of the recerver should be protected as well? tolerances do not seen to be that critical seeing the bolt fits loose. Having a problem removing the trigger, pin is jammed, and advice? I may be a bit hesitant to give it a good shot to break it loose. The finish on this gun looks almost painted on, is that normal?

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Rem. 222

Rod,
I don't have much experience with Mausers. I have one that was built by a board member here, Big Ed. If he's on here today maybe he can jump in and help out. As far as bead blasting the interior of the receiver I would think the main concern would be the receiver threads. For the trigger pin you might try some penetrating oil.

Rem. 222

Edited by - Rem. 222 on 11/13/2002 11:01:26

lonewolf5347

ROD MAY HAVE THE ANS. TOU YOUR PROBLEM BACK IN THE 80'S WHEN I WAS INTO MAUSER ACTION I ALSO USE TO DEAL WITH A GUNSMITH OUT OF P.A. HE DOES EXCELLENT WORK TURNAROUND ABOUT 3 WEEKS. I JUST SENT HIM A BNZ 43 IN 8 MM 323 BORE DRILL AND TAP FOR WEAVER BASES FORGE THE BOLT HANDLE HE ALSO INSTALLS BARREL WHICH I USED BEFORE WITH EXCELLENT RESULTS. AS FAR AS THE SAFTEY YOU CAN PICK ONE UP FROM NUMRICH ARMS $7.20 EASY TO FIT.HERE ARE THE TWO WEB PAGES GOOD LUCK http://www.ershawbarrels.com HAVING TROUBLE POSTING THE NUMRICH ARMS WEB PAGE THERE PHONE NO# 845 679 4867 PART NO# 8550B $7.20 CENTS THEY ALSO HAVE MICRO-BED EPOXY BEDDING COMPOUND GREAT PRICE $9.60 PART NO# 277950 GOOD LUCK

Rodsmith

lonewolf
Thanks for the info. I think I will go with the timney trigger w/integral safety and eliminate the problem at the rear of the scope. What would be your estimate to have the new barrel final reamed,head spaced and the receiver drilled and tapped by this guy? By the way gow is your season progressing? Our Dacks hunt was a bust! To many leaves on the trees and then 4" of snow, that claered off the branches and that night 6 more came down. We spent more time looking for a place to hunt (see more than 30 yards) than we did hunting the animals. Got more than my share of snow down the back.

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