Remington 700 BDL .25 06 Great Price!!!!!
08-02-2006, 01:42 PM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 117
Remington 700 BDL .25 06 Great Price!!!!!
For sale a Remington 700 BDL .25 06 . Gun is in excellent condition, it has the higher grade wood with the ebony fore cap, sling studss, floor plate, and Iron sights. The gun is all original, except I had a pachmayr recoil pad put on, but the stock is still all original and has not been cut. Blueing is perfect, and the stock has some very light handling marks. It is just a great shooting and good looking gun for the money. It is PRICED TO SELL!!! 
Also it has bases and see through rings on it, it is ready for your scope. Call 856-649-4908 for any questions. Asking $385.00 If you would like to see pics please call or email me and I will forward them.
Also it has bases and see through rings on it, it is ready for your scope. Call 856-649-4908 for any questions. Asking $385.00 If you would like to see pics please call or email me and I will forward them.
08-03-2006, 05:53 AM
#4
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location:
Posts: 571
RE: Remington 700 BDL .25 06 Great Price!!!!!
Sounds like a deal. If anyone is looking for a used rifle inspection guide I comprised one usingmy personalexperience and drawing on the experience of others. You will pick up most problems if you perform this test before buying.
Used Rifle Inspection
Perform a general inspection:
The purpose of this inspection is NOT to determine the percentage of finish remaining on the rifle, but to detect DAMAGE, REPAIRS, or ABUSE.
-Is the stock straight and clean
-Is the barrel straight
-Are the sights centered
-Are there deep scratches, dents, cracks, repairs
-Is the bluing uniform and appears to be the correct color
-Are the barrel markings crisp / clean
-Is the barrel the correct length (length is usually stamped on the barrel along with the caliber)
-Is the muzzle uniform , check the crown carefully
-Is the chambering on the barrel still correct
-Get a general sense of the firearm and its history
-Consider the make and caliber Ex. A Mod 70 Win in 30-06 is no great find, but a pre 64 Mod 70 could be. Is the make and/or chambering in that model rifle rare?
What you should do:
Open the action, remove the bolt if possible. Using a bore light inspect the bore by looking down it. Ideally it should be shiny, clean, and clear of obstructions. If the bore is not clean, or is slightly pitted pay close attention.
Pitted Bore: Many rifles will still shoot accurately even with slightly pitted bores, however you are taking a chance. Purchase a rifle in this condition only if you are willing to take a chance, the rifle may not shoot well with the slightly pitted bore and will require more frequent cleaning.
Dirty Bore: Can be a potential deal. Many rifles are put on the auction block because accuracy has tapered. In many cases an exceptional cleaning will restore accuracy. Again you are taking a chance here, but if the price is right and the rifle is in great condition it could be a steal. Also keep in mind by exceptional cleaning I do not mean four passes with Hoppes bore cleaner on a patch. You may have to scrub the bore for hours or over several days to remove all the fouling.
Barrel / Crown: Check the crown of the barrel. It must be uniform and undamaged. Re-crowning or re-barreling can be extremely expensive (most cases more than you paid for the rifle) Look for dents or creases on the barrel, look down the barrel and see if it appears straight and uniform. Stay away from problem rifles with any of the above damage to avoid a headache.
SAFETY:
*Before performing this step make sure the seller does not have a problem with you dry firing the rifle two or three times. If they will not let you dry fire the rifle you may want to pass on the deal, safety is extremely important.
-Work the action, it should be smooth
-After closing the action and ensuring the rifle is not loaded, place it on fire and dry fire it once.
-Note the trigger pull
-Cycle the action again, place the rifle on Saftey, it should stay cocked
-Pull the trigger while the rifle is on Safe, hold the trigger, it should stay cocked
-Let off the trigger and place the rifle on FIRE, it should stay cocked
-Now dry fire once more noting the trigger pull, it should be the same. If the trigger pull is lighter the safety is not fully engaging the cocking piece and is NOT safe.
-If the rifle fires at any time while manipulating the safety (especially without you having touched the trigger) it is unsafe until it is repaired by a gunsmith.
-Be weary of extremely light trigger pulls on lever action rifles, the hammer or sear most likely has been tampered with, this can cause a dangerous condition and usually requires you to purchase a new hammer and/or sear to correct.
Barrel, Action, Stock:
Check for fit and function, not beauty.
Inspect the action and barrel channel:
-Is the gap uniform or does it bend to the left or right
Humidity can warp a stocks’ forearm, if the wood stock touches the barrel it can alter accuracy. This could also be a deal for you, a simple bedding job will correct this issue in most cases. If the price is right and you don’t mind doing a little work there may be a real steal for you.
-Inspect the action where it meets the stock. Is the metal/wood edge uniform and clean or do you see bedding compound? Epoxy can mean a bedding job or can mean a repaired stock, be weary. Stay away from any rifle with “homemade gunsmith” work done on it. Including a poor bedding job, discolored bluing, home made porting, look at the screws on the rifle, if they are chewed up be weary, it could be a teller of abuse or a do it yourself gunsmith at work, neither safe bets.
-Closely inspect the wrist of the stock just behind the tang/action, look for cracks and/or repairs.
In general use as much common sense as you can muster and trust your gut feeling. A rifle that has a trajectory chart taped to the stock and worn bluing should generally be considered for a second look, sounds like a trusted hunting companion, mot likely shot little carried often. On the other hand a rifle in brand new looking condition with an erratic porting pattern, bedding oozing onto the action, chewed up action screws and discolored bluing even for cheap may not be a good deal, be very skeptical.
Used Rifle Inspection
Perform a general inspection:
The purpose of this inspection is NOT to determine the percentage of finish remaining on the rifle, but to detect DAMAGE, REPAIRS, or ABUSE.
-Is the stock straight and clean
-Is the barrel straight
-Are the sights centered
-Are there deep scratches, dents, cracks, repairs
-Is the bluing uniform and appears to be the correct color
-Are the barrel markings crisp / clean
-Is the barrel the correct length (length is usually stamped on the barrel along with the caliber)
-Is the muzzle uniform , check the crown carefully
-Is the chambering on the barrel still correct
-Get a general sense of the firearm and its history
-Consider the make and caliber Ex. A Mod 70 Win in 30-06 is no great find, but a pre 64 Mod 70 could be. Is the make and/or chambering in that model rifle rare?
What you should do:
Open the action, remove the bolt if possible. Using a bore light inspect the bore by looking down it. Ideally it should be shiny, clean, and clear of obstructions. If the bore is not clean, or is slightly pitted pay close attention.
Pitted Bore: Many rifles will still shoot accurately even with slightly pitted bores, however you are taking a chance. Purchase a rifle in this condition only if you are willing to take a chance, the rifle may not shoot well with the slightly pitted bore and will require more frequent cleaning.
Dirty Bore: Can be a potential deal. Many rifles are put on the auction block because accuracy has tapered. In many cases an exceptional cleaning will restore accuracy. Again you are taking a chance here, but if the price is right and the rifle is in great condition it could be a steal. Also keep in mind by exceptional cleaning I do not mean four passes with Hoppes bore cleaner on a patch. You may have to scrub the bore for hours or over several days to remove all the fouling.
Barrel / Crown: Check the crown of the barrel. It must be uniform and undamaged. Re-crowning or re-barreling can be extremely expensive (most cases more than you paid for the rifle) Look for dents or creases on the barrel, look down the barrel and see if it appears straight and uniform. Stay away from problem rifles with any of the above damage to avoid a headache.
SAFETY:
*Before performing this step make sure the seller does not have a problem with you dry firing the rifle two or three times. If they will not let you dry fire the rifle you may want to pass on the deal, safety is extremely important.
-Work the action, it should be smooth
-After closing the action and ensuring the rifle is not loaded, place it on fire and dry fire it once.
-Note the trigger pull
-Cycle the action again, place the rifle on Saftey, it should stay cocked
-Pull the trigger while the rifle is on Safe, hold the trigger, it should stay cocked
-Let off the trigger and place the rifle on FIRE, it should stay cocked
-Now dry fire once more noting the trigger pull, it should be the same. If the trigger pull is lighter the safety is not fully engaging the cocking piece and is NOT safe.
-If the rifle fires at any time while manipulating the safety (especially without you having touched the trigger) it is unsafe until it is repaired by a gunsmith.
-Be weary of extremely light trigger pulls on lever action rifles, the hammer or sear most likely has been tampered with, this can cause a dangerous condition and usually requires you to purchase a new hammer and/or sear to correct.
Barrel, Action, Stock:
Check for fit and function, not beauty.
Inspect the action and barrel channel:
-Is the gap uniform or does it bend to the left or right
Humidity can warp a stocks’ forearm, if the wood stock touches the barrel it can alter accuracy. This could also be a deal for you, a simple bedding job will correct this issue in most cases. If the price is right and you don’t mind doing a little work there may be a real steal for you.
-Inspect the action where it meets the stock. Is the metal/wood edge uniform and clean or do you see bedding compound? Epoxy can mean a bedding job or can mean a repaired stock, be weary. Stay away from any rifle with “homemade gunsmith” work done on it. Including a poor bedding job, discolored bluing, home made porting, look at the screws on the rifle, if they are chewed up be weary, it could be a teller of abuse or a do it yourself gunsmith at work, neither safe bets.
-Closely inspect the wrist of the stock just behind the tang/action, look for cracks and/or repairs.
In general use as much common sense as you can muster and trust your gut feeling. A rifle that has a trajectory chart taped to the stock and worn bluing should generally be considered for a second look, sounds like a trusted hunting companion, mot likely shot little carried often. On the other hand a rifle in brand new looking condition with an erratic porting pattern, bedding oozing onto the action, chewed up action screws and discolored bluing even for cheap may not be a good deal, be very skeptical.
