Re-finishing stock question.
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Calgary,Alberta,Canada
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I want to re-finish my stock this year because its starting to get a little aged and i was just wondering what i should use to re-finish it because it dont anything that will glare but will bring out the best in the wood so im just wondering if anyone knows what i should use.Thanks.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Hello. You did not provide many details....Shotgun, rifle, whatever. You need to start by disassembing the firearm and stripping off the old finish...If there is checkering, all the finish must be removed without damaging the checkering. Then use a clean up product to get rid of the mess. Then get a steam iron to suck up the dents then mask off the checkering and recoil pad and sand the stock down to perfect. Then, steel wool the thing with 400 500 600 until perfect. Then start applying Tru oil, waiting 24 hours, 2d coat, 24 hours and on and on til you get the finish you want. Then remove the tape and rub tru oil into the checkering until it matches the project. Or send the thing to me and I'll refinish it for you. Actually, once you have done a few, the process is simple but time consuming. Regards, Rick.
#3
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lethal - what I've done with a couple of my muzzleloaders is to to Walmart and pick up a can or two of stripeaze (in the paint section). Follow the directions to remove the old finish. You can use an old toothbrush in the checkering if there is any and papertowels or rags everywhere else to remove the stripper.
Wipe entire stock with mineral spirits and like 48th said, use a steam iron to 'pop' out any dents, then smooth off stock with steel wool. Before finishing, make sure its good and dry and free of any dust.
If your stock has a nice color/grain, just give it a couple of very light coats of clear poylurethane. This really brings out the grain in the wood and seals it.
Wipe entire stock with mineral spirits and like 48th said, use a steam iron to 'pop' out any dents, then smooth off stock with steel wool. Before finishing, make sure its good and dry and free of any dust.
If your stock has a nice color/grain, just give it a couple of very light coats of clear poylurethane. This really brings out the grain in the wood and seals it.
#4
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jul 2004
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I do like mentioned above except on many guns, I just do the Tru-Oil and then the stock conditioner. I don't want a glossy field gun and the Tru-Oil really brings out the beauty of the natural grain. Light coats, wait a day, scotchbrite it with maroon or grey, repeat until the wood tells you that it's through. The key is preparation. Make sure that you get all the old stuff off and then neutralize the stripper with the mineral spirits.
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Hey thanks alot guys this info is going to be lots of help for me. When im done ill post some pics so you can judge on the job ive done. Thanks alot guys.
Lethal
Lethal
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Jersey USA
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I do like mentioned above except on many guns, I just do the Tru-Oil and then the stock conditioner. I don't want a glossy field gun and the Tru-Oil really brings out the beauty of the natural grain. Light coats, wait a day, scotchbrite it with maroon or grey, repeat until the wood tells you that it's through. The key is preparation. Make sure that you get all the old stuff off and then neutralize the stripper with the mineral spirits.
#7
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Tru oil is good and it is fairly easy to apply but the product I have found to be the most durable and best looking is Permalyn. It cures to a super hard finish that is pretty much water proof and really brings out the beauty in wood.
Fantastic gun finish permalyn is.
I also caution people against using steel wool when rubbing the bare wood. The little fibers of steel will break off and imbed themselves into the wood and can actually rust under the finish. Fine grit sand paper is by far a better choice.
Fantastic gun finish permalyn is.
I also caution people against using steel wool when rubbing the bare wood. The little fibers of steel will break off and imbed themselves into the wood and can actually rust under the finish. Fine grit sand paper is by far a better choice.