Need Some Help!!!
08-08-2009, 03:48 PM
#13
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oh
Posts: 193
If you pick that price point
Parker Tornado 700
Strykeforce 1000
If you want that price point those are all excellent bows if you want to spend less than go with the other suggestions. Buckeyfootball
08-08-2009, 05:27 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: N46° 27.914' W90° 10.614'
Posts: 383
Once again he shows that he knows nothing.
Talk to David at Wyvern (603-659-0575) and you'll find "The Truth" about crossbows and priceing, You listen to this bozo and he will lead you down the wrong path!
Last edited by DaGriz; 08-09-2009 at 03:42 AM.
08-09-2009, 01:32 AM
#15
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barbour Co. West Virginia
Posts: 90
Sorry for the interuption Hank.....Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
At $500 I would recommend the Excalibur Pheonix or one of the Horton Summit line. I am not sure if you can one of cheaper 10pts for that price or not.
Bottom line, contact WYVERN....send him a PM or find one of the many links to his place or his phone #. He will set you up right and for as cheap as it can be done.
If you don't want that, and you like doing your own research and looking around as it is part of the process....like me, then here is my .02
I have used a Horton Compound, top of the line 4 yrs ago, for well, 3 seasons now. I just picked up a cheap Horton Steelforce recurve. Hands down for ease, lightweight, pleasureful shooting, the recurve is it. Others say recurve for stands, compounds for stillhunting. I am relatively new w/3 seasons down and 3 bucks to show for the effort, but I think just the opposite. The recurves are generally wider than the compound, making them a bit unhandy in a tight blind or in a tree stand where limbs/trees are a factor. The compounds are way heavier, so I don't like carrying mine around. I like moving quick and light on the ground. However, I realize some may not get as close on the ground and want the compound trajectory. For me in the mountains of WV where cover is plentiful.....I have taken 2 bucks at under 10yds, one was 3 steps and blew blood over me as he ran by. So give me lightweight and handy.
Now, for broadheads....Crossbow bolts require a much greater FOC (forward of center) than regular length arrows. For this reason it takes some weight on the end for best accuracy, at least if you get into poundages over 150. Therefore it takes at least 125grs in my experience to get them flying good. 150 is better. Dave can get you set up w/brass inserts for your bolts, then you can shoot the lighter BH's. As for style, pretty much whatever you want and can get to fly. I have been using Mechanicals up till now in my #225 compound. However, w/the 150# little recurve, I am going to use Magnus Stinger 125's. Whatever you have confidence in will probably work. If I didn't have tons of heads from my field testing days I would be using Rage for mechanicals and Still choose Magnus Stingers for my fixed heads. Lots of good reports w/SlickTricks from CB's
Scope or red dot.....personal preference all the way. I have a scope with the stadia lines in it. I like it past 20yds but closer than that it is too much magnification. I started with a red dot. It was OK but I hate to have my hunt depend on batteries. I left it on a couple times and fried the batteries. Of course you can always carry spares, but you can't predict the exact time they die. While aiming at a big buck is not the time. But that's just my way of thinking. I happen to like a peep pin set up like comes on some bows, including the Excaliburs before optics are put on.
I hope that helps a bit. As to not wanting one to be broken down in the middle of the season....I can't say I blame you a bit there. That in mind, I would stay away from Barnett and Parker. Lots of Limb issues w/these. Customer Service is great but who wants to need it?
At $500 I would recommend the Excalibur Pheonix or one of the Horton Summit line. I am not sure if you can one of cheaper 10pts for that price or not.
Bottom line, contact WYVERN....send him a PM or find one of the many links to his place or his phone #. He will set you up right and for as cheap as it can be done.
If you don't want that, and you like doing your own research and looking around as it is part of the process....like me, then here is my .02
I have used a Horton Compound, top of the line 4 yrs ago, for well, 3 seasons now. I just picked up a cheap Horton Steelforce recurve. Hands down for ease, lightweight, pleasureful shooting, the recurve is it. Others say recurve for stands, compounds for stillhunting. I am relatively new w/3 seasons down and 3 bucks to show for the effort, but I think just the opposite. The recurves are generally wider than the compound, making them a bit unhandy in a tight blind or in a tree stand where limbs/trees are a factor. The compounds are way heavier, so I don't like carrying mine around. I like moving quick and light on the ground. However, I realize some may not get as close on the ground and want the compound trajectory. For me in the mountains of WV where cover is plentiful.....I have taken 2 bucks at under 10yds, one was 3 steps and blew blood over me as he ran by. So give me lightweight and handy.
Now, for broadheads....Crossbow bolts require a much greater FOC (forward of center) than regular length arrows. For this reason it takes some weight on the end for best accuracy, at least if you get into poundages over 150. Therefore it takes at least 125grs in my experience to get them flying good. 150 is better. Dave can get you set up w/brass inserts for your bolts, then you can shoot the lighter BH's. As for style, pretty much whatever you want and can get to fly. I have been using Mechanicals up till now in my #225 compound. However, w/the 150# little recurve, I am going to use Magnus Stinger 125's. Whatever you have confidence in will probably work. If I didn't have tons of heads from my field testing days I would be using Rage for mechanicals and Still choose Magnus Stingers for my fixed heads. Lots of good reports w/SlickTricks from CB's
Scope or red dot.....personal preference all the way. I have a scope with the stadia lines in it. I like it past 20yds but closer than that it is too much magnification. I started with a red dot. It was OK but I hate to have my hunt depend on batteries. I left it on a couple times and fried the batteries. Of course you can always carry spares, but you can't predict the exact time they die. While aiming at a big buck is not the time. But that's just my way of thinking. I happen to like a peep pin set up like comes on some bows, including the Excaliburs before optics are put on.
I hope that helps a bit. As to not wanting one to be broken down in the middle of the season....I can't say I blame you a bit there. That in mind, I would stay away from Barnett and Parker. Lots of Limb issues w/these. Customer Service is great but who wants to need it?
08-09-2009, 05:34 PM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pa
Posts: 4,647
I have a Parker Buck Buster 175... I think they may still have the BB 150 also... I payed around 550.00 for my BB 175... It's a nice bow for the money... Very accurate!!!
I did break a limb on my bow, but after talking to Parker. I really belive it was my own doing... I was shooting arrows under weight and that is a big no no for a 175lb pull xbow!!!
I have the right weight arrows now and feel confident that this bow is going to serve me well...
Also there customer service is awsome!!!
I did break a limb on my bow, but after talking to Parker. I really belive it was my own doing... I was shooting arrows under weight and that is a big no no for a 175lb pull xbow!!!
I have the right weight arrows now and feel confident that this bow is going to serve me well...
Also there customer service is awsome!!!
