Trajectory
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
Trajectory
I am looking into getting a crossbow for this years deer season. I have always shot compound, but no longer have the time or place to practice, and I have not shot as well in the field as I used to.
I am torn between 2 bows, but after looking at the Horton site I have a bigger concern. It shows bolts going 300 fps. losing 16 inches in the first 30 yds?!?!?!
Can that be right???? I understand trajectories and that sighting in at 20 yds means a drop of 7 inches between 20 and 30, but that seems like a lot even then.I know that crossbows are not supposed to be any more efficient than compounds, but I use the same pin on my compound out to 30 yds with only a2 inch varience (from 20 yd pin) between 10 and 30 yds.
What is the experience of you folks?
I am torn between 2 bows, but after looking at the Horton site I have a bigger concern. It shows bolts going 300 fps. losing 16 inches in the first 30 yds?!?!?!
Can that be right???? I understand trajectories and that sighting in at 20 yds means a drop of 7 inches between 20 and 30, but that seems like a lot even then.I know that crossbows are not supposed to be any more efficient than compounds, but I use the same pin on my compound out to 30 yds with only a2 inch varience (from 20 yd pin) between 10 and 30 yds.
What is the experience of you folks?
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 604
RE: Trajectory
scaupstopper here is a link to a page that lists some real good info on arrow ballistics. take a look and see if it helps you any, I think it will answer your question, if not come back and ask more questions.
http://excaliburcrossbow.com/demo/listings.php?category_id=51
http://excaliburcrossbow.com/demo/listings.php?category_id=51
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: arkansas
Posts: 3,147
RE: Trajectory
ORIGINAL: scaupstopper
I am looking into getting a crossbow for this years deer season. I have always shot compound, but no longer have the time or place to practice, and I have not shot as well in the field as I used to.
I am torn between 2 bows, but after looking at the Horton site I have a bigger concern. It shows bolts going 300 fps. losing 16 inches in the first 30 yds?!?!?!
Can that be right???? I understand trajectories and that sighting in at 20 yds means a drop of 7 inches between 20 and 30, but that seems like a lot even then.I know that crossbows are not supposed to be any more efficient than compounds, but I use the same pin on my compound out to 30 yds with only a2 inch varience (from 20 yd pin) between 10 and 30 yds.
What is the experience of you folks?
I am looking into getting a crossbow for this years deer season. I have always shot compound, but no longer have the time or place to practice, and I have not shot as well in the field as I used to.
I am torn between 2 bows, but after looking at the Horton site I have a bigger concern. It shows bolts going 300 fps. losing 16 inches in the first 30 yds?!?!?!
Can that be right???? I understand trajectories and that sighting in at 20 yds means a drop of 7 inches between 20 and 30, but that seems like a lot even then.I know that crossbows are not supposed to be any more efficient than compounds, but I use the same pin on my compound out to 30 yds with only a2 inch varience (from 20 yd pin) between 10 and 30 yds.
What is the experience of you folks?
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
RE: Trajectory
That helps a bit. I guess I was just shocked by the numbers. How far do you guys shoot at deer with a crossbow?
What are your thoughts on the pro-fusion vs. the Legend 175?
Can you stabilize a broadhead at 300fps?
What are your thoughts on the pro-fusion vs. the Legend 175?
Can you stabilize a broadhead at 300fps?
#6
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 604
RE: Trajectory
The range of the crossbow is the same of the compoound vertical bows. Most people (with deer) limit their shots to 30-35 yards. It is not that you are not accurate out past that distance, but the time it takes for the arrow to travel out that far. In the time it takes the arrow to travel to 45-50 yards, a deer can move to make any accurate shot a bad hit (just because the animal moved).
Me personally I do not like the compound crossbows becasue of the extra maintaince and dependicy on the proshops for repairs. If you look in past threads (just recently) you can see some pros and cons on both the recurves and compounds to see why I prefur the simplistic nature of the recurves
Good luck and welcome to the world of crossbows. Ask any uestion that you need to.
Me personally I do not like the compound crossbows becasue of the extra maintaince and dependicy on the proshops for repairs. If you look in past threads (just recently) you can see some pros and cons on both the recurves and compounds to see why I prefur the simplistic nature of the recurves
Good luck and welcome to the world of crossbows. Ask any uestion that you need to.
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: arkansas
Posts: 3,147
RE: Trajectory
Among others, I have an Excal Exomax which is a barn burner w/ around 100 ft lbs k.e. My max range I'll shoot deer at is 35 yds for all the reasons GT posted. I use my Phoenix much more than the Emax, a lot easier on me, servings, ect. One thing about Excals, they all have the same triggers and they are great. I recently dialed in a Legend 175 for a friend. I was really impressed w/ the bow, but not the 3 dot red dot or the dial-a-range, which is also referred to as the dial-a-rage when the rope from rope cocker moves it to an unwanted position. It would not shoot b-heads anywhere near poi it did w/ field points and Horton told me it was for mechanicals only. Had a swell trigger though. If you haven't written those two choices in stone, and both are good companies, try a Phoenix. You won't need a bow monkey as you can do all yourself.
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
RE: Trajectory
Those are all good points, and I should have specified that I am not looking to shoot past 35 yds. It is irresponsible imo.
I am not in a rush to pick anything up. In fact if I can find the time, and the place I am going to stick to a "upright" as you guys call it. I wont have the money before June, as I just bought a new boat and plan to teach the Lake Erie Walleye a few lessons. that has been expensive.
Just been weiging it out cost wise. Glen Dell Buck, new sites, bow tune, new broadheads, new fletchings, new fletchings, new fletcher...It all adds up.
But you eluded to something I hadnt figured in. I thought crossbows were relatively maintenance free? Are they not?
I am not in a rush to pick anything up. In fact if I can find the time, and the place I am going to stick to a "upright" as you guys call it. I wont have the money before June, as I just bought a new boat and plan to teach the Lake Erie Walleye a few lessons. that has been expensive.
Just been weiging it out cost wise. Glen Dell Buck, new sites, bow tune, new broadheads, new fletchings, new fletchings, new fletcher...It all adds up.
But you eluded to something I hadnt figured in. I thought crossbows were relatively maintenance free? Are they not?
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 604
RE: Trajectory
Most crossbows are maintaince free or close to it, but the recurves are as close to it as you will ever get. Just wax your string, either reserve the wrapping or replace the string, check bolts for tightness, remove string and DP pads (dp pads for excalibur) for the off season or if going to store in a hot area.
Many of the compounds can go for many years withoutneeding service, but if ou need, you basicly need a shop unless you have ur own bow press.
Strings (mainly the serving or wrapping) on a crossbow do wear and need replacing every once in a while. If you need to replace the string on a recurve, it is a 5 minute job at most, even in the field, but on the compound, go to the proshop.
Since you state that you have always shot a compound and talk about getting new fletchings and new fletchers, most all arrow parts will work with the corssbow arrows (guess it is what you have used with your compound setup). I know many that use the same fletcher for both types of arrows. If your fletching setup requires a knock to fletch the arrow, all you need to do is glue a knock onto a field point and use fron inserts into the back of the arrow (screw it into the arrow then fletch),
Most shooters (the standard) use 4 or 5 inch veins or 5 inch feathers with either 1 to 4 degree right offset.
As for broadheads, if what you have now is a quality head, then it should work well with a quality crossbow. Where you can run into problems with hunting heads with the crossbow is if our head has a soft spine. That is, it can be easily bent (tip becomes off center from the AXIS of the arrow/head). Other then that, you will probually find that with the crossbow, ou wil not have to do all the matching, alining the blades/fletchings, ect. Some willalso tell you that if our using a fixed head with the larger cutting Dia (say 1.5"), in windy conditions, you can get some plaining of the head in flight to effect the accuracy (why some have gone to the mechanicals).
Hope this helps.
Many of the compounds can go for many years withoutneeding service, but if ou need, you basicly need a shop unless you have ur own bow press.
Strings (mainly the serving or wrapping) on a crossbow do wear and need replacing every once in a while. If you need to replace the string on a recurve, it is a 5 minute job at most, even in the field, but on the compound, go to the proshop.
Since you state that you have always shot a compound and talk about getting new fletchings and new fletchers, most all arrow parts will work with the corssbow arrows (guess it is what you have used with your compound setup). I know many that use the same fletcher for both types of arrows. If your fletching setup requires a knock to fletch the arrow, all you need to do is glue a knock onto a field point and use fron inserts into the back of the arrow (screw it into the arrow then fletch),
Most shooters (the standard) use 4 or 5 inch veins or 5 inch feathers with either 1 to 4 degree right offset.
As for broadheads, if what you have now is a quality head, then it should work well with a quality crossbow. Where you can run into problems with hunting heads with the crossbow is if our head has a soft spine. That is, it can be easily bent (tip becomes off center from the AXIS of the arrow/head). Other then that, you will probually find that with the crossbow, ou wil not have to do all the matching, alining the blades/fletchings, ect. Some willalso tell you that if our using a fixed head with the larger cutting Dia (say 1.5"), in windy conditions, you can get some plaining of the head in flight to effect the accuracy (why some have gone to the mechanicals).
Hope this helps.