stand watie

folks,

i'm a rank beginner at CROSSbows.

myowner's manual from Barnett recommends "a quality arrow of at least 16 inches & not over 20 inches" (2117 or heavier) AND "a broadhead or mechanical point of 125 grains."

so, what 's your opinion of THE hunting point for deer/black bear/feral hogs of 125 grains???

free dixie,sw

smokepolehall

If i told you any brand i'd be lying, i don't shoot B'Heads over 100gr.[][:-]

awshucks

stand watie: this is just my opinion, but I know the compounds all need heavier arrows than the recurves. I think Barnett is the only company that uses 22" arrows, and fairly heavy ones at that. I would think they advise the 125 gr b-heads in order to keep the FOC up where it needs to be. i do know Excal advises a heavier arrow than their "stock" 350 gr for game bigger and tougher than deer. Since I hunt hogs and bear also, I went w/ 431 gr and Slick Tricks [100 gr] They fly real well out of all three of my bows, so I don't hesitate to tell others that are having problems about them. They are also compound friendly, and are offered by 10 pt as well.

stand watie

to BOTH of you,

my CB is NOT a compound bow. it is an OLD (but in great shape) Barnett Rhino 150#/245FPS RECURVE.

thanks for your comments.

free dixie,sw

Dnk

The two broadheads I like the most is the thunderhead and the wasp jackhammers. As I've said in earlier posts the old wasp cam locks work well too. The thunderheads are just plain tough and not easily broken or damaged even after hitting rocks. The jackhammers cut a gapping hole and fly really well as do the thunderheads. This is not mean as a comment on other broadheads it is just about what I've used and taken game with.

One word of advice. Many if not all of you guys would benifit from an arrow squaring tool and use it on your inserts where the broadheads meet the inserts. It is amazing how not square the face of the insert is.

awshucks

s.w.

"i'm a rank beginner at CROSSbows" I realize you have a recurve, just trying to give you some over all info, I'm by no stretch of the imagination an expert, particularly w/ Barnetts. I did have one of their recurves years ago, a Commando. Neat little bow, but it ate strings like crazy. I was trying to say that you have a few more options available to you since you do have a recurve. You may wish to consider a little lighter arrow set up than would be needed if you had a compound, was trying to let you know it would work, imho. Good luck!

Dnk

Hey stand watie why don't you run an arrow over a chronograph and let us know. Personally I don't see a big difference on deer with 100s or 125s. Some think there is no difference on larger animals. Its all opinion unless you are going real slow. Then you may want to go as light as possible.

stand watie

to ALL:

folks, i wish to THANK each of you for your advice.

yesterday afternoon, i FINALLY got hold of a friend of mine from "down south" who has killed more deer/bear/hogs than i've seen in 4 decades of hunting. he sent me the following e-mail in return to my query of 2 weeks ago:


Deck said,

"arrow technology has IMPROVED sharply in the 12-15 years since Barnett printed that manual. it's not bad data, just OLD data.
you can NOW use lighter arrows & 100 Grain broadheads for THAT particuliar recurve. 10 years ago i would NOT have said that.
i'm now using SPITFIRE 100 grains exclusively, for all big game."

so ALL of you are CORRECT! and i again, thank you all.

free dixie,sw

sproulman

dnk, here is what i do to square a broadhead/arrow. go to hardware store and buy little plastic washers same size as back ofbroadhead.take 1 and put it on.take and spin your arrows ontable on the point,sort of like a top.if arrow spins without wobble, your set. use that broadhead on that arrow. the plastic thin washer allows you to tighten just a little bit more to stabilize the arrow and broadhead.been doing this for 40 years or so. old school thinking,ha.

smokepolehall

Yup like u i do that but have used rubber o rings.