Dnk

Get your calculators out boys! The pythagorean formula is.... A squared plus B squared equals the hypotenuse squared. The distance you aim for is the square root of the downwards visual distance (at an angle) from the shooter squared minus the height of the stand squared . Hmmmm I think I will stick to ground blinds!!!! Conversely (that word just cost me 50 cents) if I have to hunt in a stand I do not put them up high (just like mitchmtm) when I use an arrow so that my aiming errors are not magnified. If we use stands they only go up 12 feet or so. Ok no more thinking for one whole day!

Hotburn76

This has been debated alot in other forums but I never know who is right? All I do know is that I do about 80% of my pratice off the barn roof, It is flat/shed style roof that is 21 feet up, two feet shorter then my ladder stand. My CB is sighted in at from up there since that elavation is where I will do the majority of my hunting. Now my 20 yard crosshair is dead on atthe 21 feet,but when I get down and shoot on the ground I shoot about two inches low. Which agrees with some guys that say when you go up you have to aim low because you shoot high if your bow is sighted in on the ground, mine is sighted in on the 21 foot mark so when on the ground I have to aim high. Hope this helps, And don you need to stop that stuff, you and the new guy are guying to make us slow people go insane!

Hedgie

Hey Don. That theorem only gives distance in your example. (It still would be simpler to use a rangefinder from the tree base.) Don't forget to factor in bolt mass and velocity as well as the effects of gravity. Now you can stop thinking for the day.
I agree with the 12-15-foot stand height suggestion. A less acute angle
will make a difference in trajectory.
Thanks for the vari-scope explanation, Mitch.

Dnk

Its the laws of physics that are correct Jason. If I have to be stuck in a high stand I use markers/flagging tape with my yardage pro. But I still don't like being up there for many reasons. I find the higher up I am the more bored I am and the lower I am the better for falling asleep.
Hedgie that formula tells you how long gravity affects the arrow thats all thats needed for xbow distances.
Mitch, did you put an Excal product on your Horton and did it work with no fiddling?

mitchmtm1

I don't have it on yet, but with a horton mount and rings it shouldn't be a problem. Now do I have to call it a Hortcalibur or an Exhorton?[&o]

Mitch

Dnk

Funny! I wonder who the girl was? I expect it was the Horton! LOL!!!! couldn't help that one!

sproulman

ok, here goes my 2 cents.i shoot recurve, no crossbow. same info will help. been shooting deer for 40 years. first, you have to practice.i climb on roof and practice if i hunt out of tree.i like to hunt on ground as i can move.PRACTICE. as for scoped horton etc .crossbows. set your bow so it shoots dead at 20 yards. use only the 20 YARD PIN OR CROSSHAIR.now, go up on roof or shed.set target at 20 yards and shoot.if deer is at 10 yards ,you have to shoot lower, use the 20 yard sight not ten. out to 30 yards, you aim little higher up deer..closer deer ,higher it shoots, farther away the lower it shoots.never shoot over 30 yards.you have to practice. if i can only give you 1 thing to remember. USE ONLY 20 YARD CROSSHAIR AND PRACTICE. i saw more deer wounded and missed by using those different yard crosshairs,like 10,20,30 ,40.sproulman says, DONT USE THEM, use 20 yard crosshair for all shots to 30 yards.also, learn your yardages. throw the range finders away. you can learn it.trust me, been doing it for long time.hope this helps.normally out to 20 yards you have toAIM lower ON DEER TO SCORE. HOW LOW? PRACTICE.