awshucks

As ya'll know, my Pdox had a stripped hole in the rail. I'm pretty sure the seller was unaware of that, and I think I figured out how it happened. This xbow has had several stocks on it. The screw that was in stripped hole had LOTS of dried up Loc-Tite on it. I'm of the opinion that old, dried up Loc-Tite is the villan here. So, if any of ya'll have to take apart stuff you've used Loc-Tite on, and you're dealing w/ threaded aluminum, I'd take a steel nut the appropriate size and use it to "chase" the threads. When that stuff dries, it's harder than Chinese arithmatic.

Dnk

What colour loctite was it Dan?

Hotburn76

Thats what I was going to ask. When I work at my brother inlaws shop he actually keeps the red loctite locked up and only leaves the blue loctite out. He always said their is no forgiveness in red loctite. DNK has spent alot of time in the shop compared to me so maybe he can tell ya what to do if it was the red devil stuff!!!

Dnk

Very good as usual Jason. Yup the red loctite is intended as PERMANENT! The abrasive qualities are pretty amazing, esp red , it dulls a tap faster than Squirrel can fart!

awshucks

Guys, I don't know what color the loc-tite was, cause it was all dried up and semi-clear on the offending screw, but, it has been my experience you need to chase the threads no matter which color was used. In a way, this is a good thing, cause all the newbies that read this thread are gonna know to get the "blue" rather than red.

BuddyBo

Blue Loc-tite will unlock with some force. The red loc-tite requires applied heat to loosen it. It's designed that way.
BBO

RWK

Red never- blue always

Dnk

Red is meant as permanent and requires a lot of heat. Just a nother tip. If you don't feel like using blue loctite use clear nail polish or a car touch up stick. It works just as well.

lemoyne

If it was clear it might have been epoxy or super glue;back when I had an archery shop I seen people do some strange things. Lee