Bighorn Longbow stuff
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 9
Bighorn Longbow stuff
What's up, folks. Just signed into this forum. Been shooting traditional since '74, recently got a beautiful Bighorn longbow at 55 lbs. I laid out 1000 bucks to have it custombuilt, but what is absolutely killing me is that I blew out my "common extensor tendon" and brachialis muscle in the gym about two years ago. So now I have a sort of tennis elbow, which I think happened because I'm also into salt water flyrod. It's slowly getting better, so I hope maybe I'll get out there again. I've taken up hunting with a .22 in the meantime, but miss the quietness. Western CT
doesn't have a lot of deer anyway, unlike the Hudson valley and Catskills
of NY where I'm from, and where they are everywhere.
I made up some cedars in 55 lbs. awhile ago, and they're beautiful, and shoot fairly ok, (not tapered) but the tails wag a bit. I noticed this bow is a lot more less "centershot" than my ancient kit longbow, a Bingham (back when they sold unfinished completed bows for 40.00!!!) The bingham is klunky but shoots pretty well...
Anyway, I think I have to DROP my spine DOWN 5 lbs. , and maybe go to
a tapered shaft? I think my field points are at 125. I think I need less spine, right? forgive me, I'm a bit foggy. It's been awhile
A guy in Minnesota, "The footed Shaft" sells some nice shafts etc. Anyway, I know I have to spend many hours tuning my new bow, and I'm well used to that, just curious if there are any guys out there with this same bow... It's the "Ram Hunter". I am also trying to get used to having a flemish string, and twisting to tune it etc. Right now I could probably take a deer ok with it, but the tail wag bothers me. The arrrow wags just once, then straightens out in flight. I am assuming, of course, broadheads would compound the problem. I have some which are close to the Howard Hill two blade type
I hate getting old. Don't ever blow out this elbow tendon! Man it hurts like hell. for weeks, everything from shoe tying to car ignition was excruciating
!!!
Anyway, hope you all had a great season, thanks for any input.
doesn't have a lot of deer anyway, unlike the Hudson valley and Catskills
of NY where I'm from, and where they are everywhere.
I made up some cedars in 55 lbs. awhile ago, and they're beautiful, and shoot fairly ok, (not tapered) but the tails wag a bit. I noticed this bow is a lot more less "centershot" than my ancient kit longbow, a Bingham (back when they sold unfinished completed bows for 40.00!!!) The bingham is klunky but shoots pretty well...
Anyway, I think I have to DROP my spine DOWN 5 lbs. , and maybe go to
a tapered shaft? I think my field points are at 125. I think I need less spine, right? forgive me, I'm a bit foggy. It's been awhile
A guy in Minnesota, "The footed Shaft" sells some nice shafts etc. Anyway, I know I have to spend many hours tuning my new bow, and I'm well used to that, just curious if there are any guys out there with this same bow... It's the "Ram Hunter". I am also trying to get used to having a flemish string, and twisting to tune it etc. Right now I could probably take a deer ok with it, but the tail wag bothers me. The arrrow wags just once, then straightens out in flight. I am assuming, of course, broadheads would compound the problem. I have some which are close to the Howard Hill two blade type
I hate getting old. Don't ever blow out this elbow tendon! Man it hurts like hell. for weeks, everything from shoe tying to car ignition was excruciating
!!!
Anyway, hope you all had a great season, thanks for any input.
#2
Spike
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 51
RE: Bighorn Longbow stuff
You might try different weight field tips to see if that corrects your problem. Like 145 160 or 100grs. Go either way and see if that helps. I think maybe you have to go up on spine. Trying field tips is alot cheaper. Let me know if you need a couple of different weights.What diameter are your shafts.Bighorn is center shot and I believe has fast flite string, so you might have to shoot 60-65 or 65-70.
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 9
RE: Bighorn Longbow stuff
I tried some 60 to 65 shafts from my other longbow to no avail. Also a 55 to 60 lb arrow from the footed shaft guy. (A really nice arrow!!)
One thing I might have done wrong in buliding these arrows is dip the fletch ends 5" of the shafts in pretty heavy laquer, Rustoleum. The rest of the shaft is bare. They are really beautiful, with crests and all, but I think maybe this added some grain weight to the ass end. Usually I never bothered to make my arrows all fancy and just finished my shafts with boiled linseed, since I stump shoot a lot.
The bighorn recurves are probably centershot, but this bow is not. It's a totally traditional longbow, straight handle. So I'm starting to think maybe I should scrape the paint off the shafts and re-fletch, and if that doesn't work try dropping down 5 lbs in spine because of "archers' parallax" ..this bow, not being centershot, needs a little looser spined arrow to flex around that riser. I did try 140 gr. and that didn't work.
I would like to try straight shafts first before going all out for the tapered.
I have a feeling the tapered would help a lot...
Sometimes it used to take me forever to find the right config. When this tendon thing finally heals I have to ease into it. I'm not into being frustrated, I'm just hoping somehow in my old age and with my broken wing I can magically find the perfect arrow now . Pipe dream.
I am drawing 55 at 29.5 I allow about 3/4 inch for broadheads. Like a lot of guys, I also suffered from "frozen shoulder" from too much draw weight
for years. I think it's cool that a lot of guys are dropping their weights and
just working on getting a bit closer.
Mostly just wondering if there are any other shooters out there with this same bow. Chances are we'll be in the same relative draw wieght too.
Thanks
One thing I might have done wrong in buliding these arrows is dip the fletch ends 5" of the shafts in pretty heavy laquer, Rustoleum. The rest of the shaft is bare. They are really beautiful, with crests and all, but I think maybe this added some grain weight to the ass end. Usually I never bothered to make my arrows all fancy and just finished my shafts with boiled linseed, since I stump shoot a lot.
The bighorn recurves are probably centershot, but this bow is not. It's a totally traditional longbow, straight handle. So I'm starting to think maybe I should scrape the paint off the shafts and re-fletch, and if that doesn't work try dropping down 5 lbs in spine because of "archers' parallax" ..this bow, not being centershot, needs a little looser spined arrow to flex around that riser. I did try 140 gr. and that didn't work.
I would like to try straight shafts first before going all out for the tapered.
I have a feeling the tapered would help a lot...
Sometimes it used to take me forever to find the right config. When this tendon thing finally heals I have to ease into it. I'm not into being frustrated, I'm just hoping somehow in my old age and with my broken wing I can magically find the perfect arrow now . Pipe dream.
I am drawing 55 at 29.5 I allow about 3/4 inch for broadheads. Like a lot of guys, I also suffered from "frozen shoulder" from too much draw weight
for years. I think it's cool that a lot of guys are dropping their weights and
just working on getting a bit closer.
Mostly just wondering if there are any other shooters out there with this same bow. Chances are we'll be in the same relative draw wieght too.
Thanks
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