hatchet jack

Burn the pin on the target!

b2simple

Practice doesn't make perfect - Perfect practice makes perfect!!! (IMO)

MA Jay

If you are practicing that often, and I'll assume your bow is tuned ... it's probably your form and aiming techniques that need to be refined.

Like someone else said,
Ever take a lesson? Know someone who consistently shoots real well who could watch you shoot?

I'd suggest going to a local archery shoot, now this part is IMPORTANT .. notice who the "real" good shooters are, then ask if they wouldn't mind helping a guy with a few suggestions. Beware the guys who throw advice around but never step up to the line ....
I haven't met a serious archer yet who won't gladly give advice on how someone can improve their shooting.

ijimmy

Do you have a "good" pro shop near you ? I would go there and have them check your shooting form , then make sure your equipment is matched to you and good quality arrows that are matched to your bow are of utmost importance .

Texarkanimal

From what I have seen with grouping problems people think it must be the bow. Many times the problem lies with how you are holding the bow in your hand. If you do not use a proper grip with weight of the bow in the croch of the hand and fingers loose on the front of the bow. A tight grip on the handle will cause you to torqe the bow on your shots and many times that is the problem.

PABowhntr

May I ask what you mean by this? The reason I ask is that many folks take their bow to a pro shop and the shop either "rough tunes" it or might even paper tune the bow. However, if you do not do it yourself then you will not always obtain the same results. I once had a pro shop paper tune my bow to bullet holes and then tried to shoot through paper myself. I could not get a bullet hole no matter what I did.

I guess my point is that sometimes we have to tune the bow for ourselves by ourselves.

adams

If you decide to play with you tuning this guide should be some help

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloa...ning_guide.zip

I had never tuned a bow before this year. I bought my new bow in march and have set it up myself and achieved a good paper tune and then a good group tune by fine tuning. This guide make it easy to tune. Very simple insturctions and very detailed.
I take much more pride now when I shoot good groups and find it much more rewarding to do my own work.

Either way I hope you can get the issue squared away

Elkcrazy8

If your bow is tuned and arrows are spined correctly. Try this, Take an arrow and hold it with both hands in front of you and have both hands spaced apart. now pull with both hands like you are trying to pull the arrow apart. The muscles that you feel tightening in your back are the muscles that you should be using to shoot your bow. This is where the term back tension comes from. If you are shooting without it, you are using the longer weaker muscles in your arms to shoot. By using back tension you are using the stronger, shorter muscles in your back to shoot with and you will be able to hold and shoot steadier. Bows with solid walls help greatly in acheiving this. I have a solid wall on mine and am able to feel the mucles tighten in the same manner by pulling hard off the wall. Also I agree, a smaller target is the best......Shoot small, miss small.

OH_RedNeck

I agree with form. Concentrate on grouping your shots and then place that group onto your target by making adjustments to your bow.

-Do you shoot open handed or closed handed?
-Do you use a kisser button to help with your anchor point? A small change in anchor point will translate into large errors down range.
- What draw length are you shooting? Many shoot with a draw length that is way too large for their stature.
-Do you use a mechanical release? More importantly, do you punch the release or do you slowly squeeze the arrow off?

Go take a lesson and have someone who knows what they are doing help address the above issues with you. Four things that helped me tremendously were the use of a kisser button, A peep sight, shooting with my bow hand open, and the technique I used with my mechanical release. I would say your problem is inconsistent anchoring and maybe torquing the bow at the release if you are not shooting open handed. Also, another tip, minimize the movement of your release hand by using the knucle joint closest to the hand on the trigger and not the finger tip. Rifles and pistols use your finger tip, mechanical release, shoot with your knuckle.

Just a few thoughts from someone who HAD a similar problem.

Bob H in NH

There are three big reasons why people don't shoot as well as they could:

- bow tune and fit, mostly fit, draw length to long, weight to much. Strap on a BH of the same weight as a field point and shoot it from 30-40 yds, does it hit close to field points? If not, the bow isn't tuned .

- grabbing the bow. make sure your bow hand is relaxed, not a death grip on the bow, but also not with straight fingers, just let your fingers hang loose, not touching the bow, then shoot, do you feel the bow jump off your hand and into your fingers?If not, you are grabbing the bow.

- punching the release and over-aiming the bow. There is not a person alive who holds the pin dead steady on the target, they all move, so.... let it float and get off a smooth release, ideally a suprise release. If you are doing "drive by shooting" where you try to punch the trigger when the pin crosses the dot, you are in trouble...

Aiming at a smaller dot is a GREAT idea, however don't get carried away, if the dot is to small you will start punching the trigger. Personally I shoot much tighter groups at a 3D target than a spot.

--Bob