JoshKeller

1977? [8D]

All joking aside, deflexed riser/long ata/round energy wheels are actually a joy to tune. I just wish my old bear compound didnt weigh 7 lbs, otherwise, I'd still probably be using it - with aluminums of course.

BobCo19-65

Well, my new bow does have a deflexed riser and a 40" A to A (fairly long by todays standards). But I had to go with the hybrid cams.

I'll still stick with Aluminum Arrows though.

MT elk addict

I started with aluminums and switched to carbons for a while but have since went back to the Super Slams. They may fly slower but I have an easier time tuning them and getting my broadheads to fly.

I say shoot what feels good and what you have confidence in. That is what really matters most.

Arthur P

My setup: Hoyt ProTec, LXPRo limbs, Accuwheels, 46" axle to axle, 60 pounds, 65% letoff, Cavalier FreeFlyte micro adjust rest, 4" Doinker, catwhiskers, Limbsavers and 1 brass nock. Arrows: 33" 2315's, 5" feathers, 125 gn points. Black Widow tab. That's it. No sights or other extraneous gobbledygook.

I set my nock at 1/2" with my bowsquare, eyeballed centershot, shot 3 fletched arrows and 3 bareshaft at 20 yards to check rough tune on centershot and nockset, then shot at 60 yards to fine tune centershot. 10 minutes. The remaining 20 minutes were spent fine tuning my tiller so the bow drew smooth and stayed on target thoughout the draw and readjusting my nockset.

Of course, I didn't account for the time I spent when I first got it, before taking it to the range, setting draw weight and zero tiller for a starting point and then timing/synching the wheels. Altogether, that would add about another 45 minutes to an hour to the procedure.

The bow shoots broadheads beautifully on those 2315's with just that little bit of tuning. I could do a lot more tuning and maybe squeeze out another half inch of accuracy, but why? Why would I want to wrestle around like I've done trying to tune carbon arrows when aluminum gets me shooting accurately with that little trouble?

The only non-aluminum arrows I've found that work as well are Carbon Express Terminator Selects. If I had to shoot a non-aluminum arrow, those are the ones I'd go to, and they are a fiberglass/carbon composite arrow. The main reason I'm not shooting them now is because they aren't available locally and, when I want something, I want it NOW. I don't like waiting for the UPS man.[&:]

B&C Wanna B

IF you have tow arrows one aluminum and one carbon both of equal weight it can be assumed that teh carbon will penetrate better. The Carbon has less occilation and a higher rate of kinetic energy retention. So that said it will pack a harder punch and have superior penetration.
Note the arrows are of equal weight.

Im not a physics major or anything but this much seems clear to me. Correct me if im wrong.

JoshKeller

However, under most circumstances, the aluminums will be easier to tune and get to fly well with broadheads, especially if they are of a longer draw length.

BGfisher

I agree with B&C is saying, but the practical side is-- when the carbon or aluminum is sticking in the ground after a passthrough, how much more penetration is necessary?

40" ATA is not long by today's standards. Compared to what the younger guys want today it's like an extension ladder.