WisHunt

Carbon- Out west on the mountain, fall down, slide 150 ft, stoped by a large rock, bow falls another 100 ft. tumbles,,,, etc. Which arrow do you want in your quiver?

I know they are outdated but I shoot sme epsilon heavys - I practice for 3D out to 100 yards and throw muzzy 100s out to 70 yards with very good accuracy. Just my experiance.


ALU- Nothing wrong with them for most, you can buy 2 for one so the bending or breaking is really not an issue for me.

It comes down to utility for me - my equipment needs to be durable, I don't take care of it worth a crap, yep I'll admit it, so I need to know that it will work when called upon.

c903

If my bow was dragged, bumped, and scraped for 150 feet over rocks, dirt, and other debris; and then fell and tumbled another 100 feet, it would not matter if the shafts in the quiver were made of titanium metals used on space ships. I would not be firing the bow.

Not only might the bow be all screwed up, the sights and other relevant gear might be totally out of sync. Mostly, I would wonder, and be real concerned, about which carbon shaft or shafts were slightly fractured and is going to blow up in my face when I shoot one and end up in my arm and in a main artery, or permanently damage nerves.

Arthur P

Mr Fritz... I save the paper for when nature calls. It's a heckuva lot more useful for that than it is for tuning bows.

I can tune a bow to shoot an aluminum arrow with acceptable flight and accuracy, even decent paper tears, within 10 minutes. Fine tuned within a half hour. I've pissed away HOURS trying to tune carbons, with every tuning method and trick I know.

I require arrows that are 32" long MINIMUM. That doesn't leave me anything to cut off a carbon shaft. Have you ever checked the ends of raw carbon shafts for straightness? There is simply NO WAY to tune arrows that are crooked. And, believe me, they are crooked. Anybody that say's "carbon arrows are either straight or broken" has never checked them for straightness.

C903, exactly what I was thinking!

rcd567

Hi,
My name is Bob and I'm an Arrow-aholic.[] I've got a dozen XX75 arrows that I've been shooting for almost 25 years. A couple of them have small bends in them, one has the nock end blown out from a robin hood. I've also got about three or four dozen carbon arrows.

The thing I'm finding about the carbons is that they will warp(?) or bend while in storage? I store them in Plano Arrow boxes to prevent just such a thing from happening.

Like many of you, I've made my own target...a carboard press...and I shoot a lot, so I use my old aluminums. Can't pull a carbon out of the stuff.[:@] Anyway, I've noticed that the aluminum arrows are a lot straighter and seem to fly better. Since I'm more concerned with sound and arrow flight than I am of speed, I'm considering going back to Aluminums for everything. Although I might try some A/C/C's or Kinetics first. Like I said in the begining and in my by line. I'm an arrow-aholic.

Hell, I like them all!

BGfisher

I guess I'll give my $.02. Been shooting since long before carbon arrows ever made the scene, and for the record there was available in 1979 made by Lamiglass (tapered like Arrow Dynamics). Alum was the arrow of choice because it was better than wood or fiberglass. X-7's were the best, but XX-75 was plenty good enough. Then along came pultruded carbon, neat but trying to keep ouserts on them was a pain in the ass along with trying to get rest clearance. ICS or ACC, don't know which came first but have shot both. Many different brands and sizes. They're all decent if you pay attention to details. ACC's being the cream of the crop, in my opinion.
However, shooting a outside 3D league for several years has me slowly making the transition back to aluminum because I can pull these from McKenzie targets. No LUBE needed. I have a tendency to break nocks and robbinhood arrows just a bit so destroy about a dozen every three months or so. And the best aluminums, X-7's, are still as cheap as mid-grade carbons. I've read about spine degradation in carbons so this is also a factor to consider. Never had this problem with aluminum.
I've got a new bow coming (someday) and am going to try the Vapor 23 Speeds, but I seriously think I'm going to get a new batch of 2212's. You know, do away with the lube tube and some other garbage hanging off my quiver.

ahunter55

I have used them both & assume because of the added weight of the aluminum get better penetration. Heart shot 2 years ago on elk & went to fletch. Same setup this year except Aluminum-almost identical hit & distance of shot on a Buffalo (size comparable to Elk) & complete pass thru. I must say-I have more pass thrus with the Aluminum (I like that)but as far as accuracy-I keep my shots usually less than 35 yards & in most cases 20 yards or less. good luck in what ever you shoot.

BOWFANATIC

Can't argue with that! Been there done that! I've found (for my setups) that the overspined (heavier) carbons paper tune the best. The Beman ICS 340's worked well. But the down side is they go through the standard Easton super nocks alot faster than any other setup I've used.
I've heard others say the ACC's uni bushings solve this problem. Another downside to that is by the time you get done buying all the needed accesories to build your "perfect arrow" , you could have purchased a couple dozen aluminums.[&:]

That right there is the only reason I would need to stick with aluminums!

hrtshot

Been shooting beman ics for 3 years now....while they are very durable, straightness is a problem, but until last year I had no problem. I bought a dozen of new bemans and was trying to paper test my bow....It was just not happening....I spin checked the arrows and out of that new dozen, there were 5 arrows that were, what i consider good enough to hunt with. so i put by 100 gr Muzzys on the good 5. After a few shots with them they started flying crazy, so i took off the broadheads and spin checked the "good 5" again, and after shooting just a few times, the "good 5", were just as bad as the rest of the dozen. So after last year, needless to say I will be switching back to my trusty xx78 Super Slams.

ewolf

Fine tune a bow in 30 minutes? Thats a little fast. I wish i was that speedy. For me to have a bow perfectly tuned it takes me about 15 hours. That of course is shooting every tuned set up possible. Tiller, Points, and arrow length. I set the bow up for 125 then 100 then 85, normally although all are tuned right one will shot better then the rest(this is after shaft length). I also try 1/16 tiller adjustments, once again one usually shots better then the rest. I buy 12 of the arrows i plan to shot, keep 2 bare shafts 2 fletched. Then i shot them initially 1.5inches past the riser. I start cutting off length(1/4 Inch at a time) and retuning the bow, Usually the groups get smaller then larger. I keep tabs on group size. Then i give those arrows away and cut the other shafts to the best length. I know I know your throwing away good shafts by cutting them short, But i have a better tuned bow then most because of this.

Arthur P

ewolf, I said 'fine tuned' not micro tuned. Frankly, the bows I prefer can't tell whether they're fine tuned or micro tuned. They shoot great. Easy and less frequent tuning, not to mention accuracy, is exactly why I prefer them.

When was the last time you set up a deflexed riser/long axle to axle/round energy-wheel bow?