***UPDATE*** Solved the TT Problem, THANKS GUYS~~~~
#1
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys,
I just went and decided that I was gonna figure out why I kept getting fletch contact with my Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter!
Well, I kept loosening the cable and the contact kept getting smaller and smaller! Well, finally I had it set where it came to full rise aboit 1/4" from the backwall and I shot. None of the foot powder rubbed off the rest! I shot about a dozen shots in a row and not a bit of contact! FINALLY!!!![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
A BIG thanks goes out to you guys, especially BowFanatic and Phil!!!
Now it is time to paper tune again to make sure everything is still in check! Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it and I hope that this helps some guys out in the future when setting the rest up. If you get fletch contact when the rest is set-up as it should be, trying getting it to rise about 1/4" from the backwall and see what happens!!!!
I just went and decided that I was gonna figure out why I kept getting fletch contact with my Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter!
Well, I kept loosening the cable and the contact kept getting smaller and smaller! Well, finally I had it set where it came to full rise aboit 1/4" from the backwall and I shot. None of the foot powder rubbed off the rest! I shot about a dozen shots in a row and not a bit of contact! FINALLY!!!
![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
A BIG thanks goes out to you guys, especially BowFanatic and Phil!!!
Now it is time to paper tune again to make sure everything is still in check! Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it and I hope that this helps some guys out in the future when setting the rest up. If you get fletch contact when the rest is set-up as it should be, trying getting it to rise about 1/4" from the backwall and see what happens!!!!
#4
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So, if I am reading your description correctly then what you are saying is that the "launcher arm" should come up to its full position at the last 1/4 inch of the draw cycle?
I thought TT recommends at least 2 inches...and I have seen several others recommend at least that much in order to some support for the arrow?
How accurately is it shooting now?
I thought TT recommends at least 2 inches...and I have seen several others recommend at least that much in order to some support for the arrow?
How accurately is it shooting now?
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: East Yapank NY USA
Posts: 3,457
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
FYI - this was sent to me from TT last year after my little tantrums![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Hope it helps a bit
![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Hope it helps a bit
Actually, tuning with the Trophy Taker is a
relatively simple equation once the rest is set up correctly. Assuming that
the rest is set up in accordance with our guidelines that are found in the
packaged instructions and on our websites installation page (with photos of
installation procedure), there are really only a couple of variable to look
at. First, the rest should be fully up just long enough to stabilize your
arrow in flight...no more, and no less. Finding that balance is a matter of
several variables.
First of all, how you release is important. Clipping your release to the
string rather than to a D-Loop will cause downward pressure on your rest and
thus usually requires the rest to be up longer to offset this.
Also, some single cams tend to "throw" the nock downward at the shot, again
putting pressure on the rest resulting in the need for it to be "up" longer
too.
Third, extremely speedy bows need more help stabilizing the arrow, so they sometimes need a little more help on the launch.
These are the top three timing issues. Aside from extending the length of
time that the rest is "up," you can also raise your nocking point on the
string some, though I do not recommend running more than 1/4 inch nock high.
The second major variable in tuning with a fall-away is arrow spine. This
is one of the most overlooked aspects in archery today, and yet it is one of
the most critical. Spine charts are often inadequate when it comes to
taking into consideration all the variables that go into the dynamic spine
of an arrow. Even more confusing is the fact that you can take two
identical setups; same bow, cam, poundage, draw length, rest, release, etc.-
and need two different arrow spines in order to achieve the very best tune.
Particularly arrows that are too weak for a setup, will sometimes leave a
little bit of contact on the fall away launcher.
Now for some solutions. First of all, play with the timing of your rest.
If you are using our solid cord and attaching to the buss cable of the bow,
then I recommend that your rest should be fully up for the last 1 to 2 and
1/2 inches of your draw (no less and not much more if any). If you are
using the bungee, then you can make the rest stand up longer if you desire.
If you are attaching to the cable slide, then you can make the rest stand up
longer too. However, it is important to note that if you cannot tune your
arrow by using a combination of a slightly raised nocking point and making
the rest stand up for the last 2 and 1/2 inches of your draw, there is
probably another variable at work in your bow that needs attention.
As for the spine issue, the cheapest and easiest solution is to play with
your poundage and point weights if you don't have other arrows to try.
Backing your poundage off will increase the stiffness of your spine, as will
lowering the point weight. Reversing these obviously has the opposite
affect. Usually, you need to get a little radical here...people usually
don't try to go far enough to tell a difference because they are convinced
that their arrows are spined right in the beginning. It is also important
to note here that any time you change a variable on your bow, it can affect
spine. For example, if you had a fixed launcher on your bow and it was
tuning well with your arrows, then you put a different rest on your bow and
it is not tuning well, then you should consider arrow spine.
Since you already noted that your rest was set up according to instructions, perhaps the most viable information for you in the preceding paragraphs relates to release method, timing and arrow spine. I have spent a lot of time talking with a very knowledgeable man over at BowTech named Jamie. While I myself prefer to tie the Trophy Taker into the buss cable of my bows, I have not set up any on the Patriot single cam, and Jamie has set up dozens. He asserts that he gets his best results from tying the rest to his cable slide and making it stand up longer. In order to do so, he runs the cord in from the archer's side of the tab, and then back over the tab to the cable slide so that it is pulling on the tab from the far side...this results in a better pulling angle on our launcher.
If this method is still unclear, I would be very happy to talk with you about it if there is a good time I can call you or I am happy to continue to e-mail you. Like I said in the form part of my e-mail, the rest part of the equation is relatively simple...from there, issues like nock travel and other factors have to be looked into and allowed for.
relatively simple equation once the rest is set up correctly. Assuming that
the rest is set up in accordance with our guidelines that are found in the
packaged instructions and on our websites installation page (with photos of
installation procedure), there are really only a couple of variable to look
at. First, the rest should be fully up just long enough to stabilize your
arrow in flight...no more, and no less. Finding that balance is a matter of
several variables.
First of all, how you release is important. Clipping your release to the
string rather than to a D-Loop will cause downward pressure on your rest and
thus usually requires the rest to be up longer to offset this.
Also, some single cams tend to "throw" the nock downward at the shot, again
putting pressure on the rest resulting in the need for it to be "up" longer
too.
Third, extremely speedy bows need more help stabilizing the arrow, so they sometimes need a little more help on the launch.
These are the top three timing issues. Aside from extending the length of
time that the rest is "up," you can also raise your nocking point on the
string some, though I do not recommend running more than 1/4 inch nock high.
The second major variable in tuning with a fall-away is arrow spine. This
is one of the most overlooked aspects in archery today, and yet it is one of
the most critical. Spine charts are often inadequate when it comes to
taking into consideration all the variables that go into the dynamic spine
of an arrow. Even more confusing is the fact that you can take two
identical setups; same bow, cam, poundage, draw length, rest, release, etc.-
and need two different arrow spines in order to achieve the very best tune.
Particularly arrows that are too weak for a setup, will sometimes leave a
little bit of contact on the fall away launcher.
Now for some solutions. First of all, play with the timing of your rest.
If you are using our solid cord and attaching to the buss cable of the bow,
then I recommend that your rest should be fully up for the last 1 to 2 and
1/2 inches of your draw (no less and not much more if any). If you are
using the bungee, then you can make the rest stand up longer if you desire.
If you are attaching to the cable slide, then you can make the rest stand up
longer too. However, it is important to note that if you cannot tune your
arrow by using a combination of a slightly raised nocking point and making
the rest stand up for the last 2 and 1/2 inches of your draw, there is
probably another variable at work in your bow that needs attention.
As for the spine issue, the cheapest and easiest solution is to play with
your poundage and point weights if you don't have other arrows to try.
Backing your poundage off will increase the stiffness of your spine, as will
lowering the point weight. Reversing these obviously has the opposite
affect. Usually, you need to get a little radical here...people usually
don't try to go far enough to tell a difference because they are convinced
that their arrows are spined right in the beginning. It is also important
to note here that any time you change a variable on your bow, it can affect
spine. For example, if you had a fixed launcher on your bow and it was
tuning well with your arrows, then you put a different rest on your bow and
it is not tuning well, then you should consider arrow spine.
Since you already noted that your rest was set up according to instructions, perhaps the most viable information for you in the preceding paragraphs relates to release method, timing and arrow spine. I have spent a lot of time talking with a very knowledgeable man over at BowTech named Jamie. While I myself prefer to tie the Trophy Taker into the buss cable of my bows, I have not set up any on the Patriot single cam, and Jamie has set up dozens. He asserts that he gets his best results from tying the rest to his cable slide and making it stand up longer. In order to do so, he runs the cord in from the archer's side of the tab, and then back over the tab to the cable slide so that it is pulling on the tab from the far side...this results in a better pulling angle on our launcher.
If this method is still unclear, I would be very happy to talk with you about it if there is a good time I can call you or I am happy to continue to e-mail you. Like I said in the form part of my e-mail, the rest part of the equation is relatively simple...from there, issues like nock travel and other factors have to be looked into and allowed for.
#7
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Frank,
I havn't had it out at any longer ranges yet, but I put a couple dozen shots through it at 10 yards and I was putting every arrow in a nickel sized hole. I was only shooting one arrow at a time because I don't want any robinhoods
Hopefully tommorow I will get it shooting out to 40 yards or so, that is if some more of this snow melts. But, as of now, the flight looks great, there is no fletch contact, and my 10 yard groups are very good!!!
Navy, The brace height is a measured 7-1/2". The fletching is 3- 4" Duravanes set at a 4 degree right offset. The arrows are 28.25" Gold Tip 3-D Pro 75/95's. The rest is the long bar rest. I was shooting my arrows with 100 grain field points which gives me a total arrow weight of 405.425 grains and a speed of 281 f.p.s.
Rack,
That is very interesting. I am shooting my release off the string, the Liberty is known to throw the nock down a bit on nock travel tests, and my bow is shooting pretty fast at 281 f.p.s. According to what they told you, my set-up should be raising about 2" from the backwall, but that gives me fletch contact. That is kinda strange. My bow set-up is pretty much the exact opposite of what they say works best for it!!!!
I havn't had it out at any longer ranges yet, but I put a couple dozen shots through it at 10 yards and I was putting every arrow in a nickel sized hole. I was only shooting one arrow at a time because I don't want any robinhoods
![Big Grin](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Navy, The brace height is a measured 7-1/2". The fletching is 3- 4" Duravanes set at a 4 degree right offset. The arrows are 28.25" Gold Tip 3-D Pro 75/95's. The rest is the long bar rest. I was shooting my arrows with 100 grain field points which gives me a total arrow weight of 405.425 grains and a speed of 281 f.p.s.
Rack,
That is very interesting. I am shooting my release off the string, the Liberty is known to throw the nock down a bit on nock travel tests, and my bow is shooting pretty fast at 281 f.p.s. According to what they told you, my set-up should be raising about 2" from the backwall, but that gives me fletch contact. That is kinda strange. My bow set-up is pretty much the exact opposite of what they say works best for it!!!!
#8
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info Rack. Very informative.
Jason,
Let me know how things progress. I have not given up on mine yet....just put it away for temporary storage.
Jason,
Let me know how things progress. I have not given up on mine yet....just put it away for temporary storage.
#9
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well guys,
It seems my ordeal isn't over!!! [:@] I decided to paper tune tonight and I was getting nock high/right tears. I easily adjusted for the right tear, but, I moved my rest to the left untilly it was fully over and I am still getting right tears! There isn't any fletch contact, but it seems that there isn't enough horizontal play for me. This is odd because so many others have this rest on their Libertys and they are working fine. Tommorow I am probablly gonna take it to the guy who I got my MightyMite off of and see what we can figure out.
P.S. Rack, Now I know how you felt!!!!
It seems my ordeal isn't over!!! [:@] I decided to paper tune tonight and I was getting nock high/right tears. I easily adjusted for the right tear, but, I moved my rest to the left untilly it was fully over and I am still getting right tears! There isn't any fletch contact, but it seems that there isn't enough horizontal play for me. This is odd because so many others have this rest on their Libertys and they are working fine. Tommorow I am probablly gonna take it to the guy who I got my MightyMite off of and see what we can figure out.
P.S. Rack, Now I know how you felt!!!!
![EEK!](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#10
![Default](https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I gotta tell you Jason. I am contemplating putting either a Zero Effect or a Trapdoor on the bow in the near future. I will let you know how it goes.
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