Buck Magnet

Hey guys,

Yesterday I took my bow to my tech guy to finally get it all set-up and tuned. I dropped it off so he could put the new string on and all the accessories. Well, this morning he called me and told me to come down so we could fine tune it to me. Well, when I got there, he told me that he had spent around 5 hours last night trying to get my arrows (31" BlackHawk Vapor55/70' s) to shoot good but he just couldnt. Well, I went in and shot them through paper and I was getting about a 1" high/right tear. He then told me to try one of his arrows (20" PSE Carbon Force 300) and it tore about 1/4-1/2" high holes. Then we headed out to group tune and I tried one of my arrows again and saw some very erratic flight, the back end was wobbling in very loose circles, maybe 9" in diameter. I then shot his arrow and it was dead perfect. Also, his arrows were getting roughly 4" more of penetration than mine. Probablly due to the wobbling in my arrow. Well, he let me borrow 3 of his arrows and said to shoot them for awhile and figure out what I wanted to do with my arrows.

Now, do you guys think that this problem could have been caused by a underspined arrow. Would it throw the flight off that bad? The arrows are rated at 70# and I bumped my draw weight down to 65# today because to be honest, I really didn' t need to be pulling the 72# I was. I would think that a arrow rated at 70# would be good spine out of a 65# bow.

I have two choices here, I could just keep my arrows and get new ones. Which costs extra $$$$

I could also cut 2" off my BlackHawks, which would make them 29" arrows rated at 70# spine, as that would increase the spine more. I am just not sure if the problem is the spine or not.

One more thing, we checked for fletching contact and there was absolutely none.

P.S. With his arrows, I was grouping 2-1/2" at 30 yards. With mine, maybe 6" groups at 30 yards [:' (]

nub

I' m in a lazy mood today, so with as little effort into your problem as possible I' ll say this; If you can chop 2" off your arrows and still have room to spare, I' d cut them. 2" is quite a lot of extra shaft to me. Combine that with the 5 lbs you took off and you should see a difference in spine.

Hyawatha

What weight are the tips your using?

Try less weight in the tip.
OR
Try moving the brass nock ever so slightly up the string, like I had to do.
Also, if using a prong rest, the spring load may be too stiff.

Buck Magnet

I am using 100 grain tips, and I don' t really want to go any less than that.

We tried just about everything, adjusting the rest and nock. It was just like an erratic flight. Like I said, we got the PSE arrows to shoot perfectly, but, the BlackHawk Vapors just weren' t doing it.

I am using the N.A.P. QuickTune 3000 Micro, and we did adjust the prong tension to as low as we could, and it didn' t help on the BlackHawks.

We tried 3 different BlackHawks and each was doing the same thing.

He was pretty perplexed about the situation himself. We tried everything in the book.

I just don' t know if it is even worth it to cut the BlackHawks. Alot of guys said that the BlackHawks have durability problems, and cutting them down might just make that area even weaker.

Nub, on the BlackHawks, I have about 2-1/2" from my rest to the insert. On the 29" PSE' s, I had roughly a 1/2" distance between the rest and the insert.

I am just thinking that it might be a better idea to just get the exact same arrows John had to shoot. They are shooting great out of my bow, and I havn' t really heard anything bad about them.

nub

Unless you have another bow you can use them on, cut them down. Doesn' t sound to me like they are much good to you the way they are. If you buy a doz. of the PSE CF 300' s, have him chop those off while he' s got the saw set up. Shouldn' t hurt the pocket book too bad. You can always do the inserts yourself. [:-] Least you can do some stump shooting or squirrels with them.

Cougar Mag

Like Nub said. You don' t need 2.5" or more of extra arrow sticking out, and it will increase the spine by cutting off the excess.

You answered your own question Buckmagnet, with no fletching clearance.............no good flight.

TFOX

I just checked the 2 arrows in question on my spine program and your Blackhawks are almost the exact same spine at 31" as the 300' s are at 29" .The 300' s are stiffer but only a very small amount.It really shouldn' t make that much of a difference.


That being said,I would cut them to about 1" in front of the rest.I would then cut the fletching off and start paper tuning this way.That will eliminate any problems associated with the vanes and will ensure that you are getting as good of a tune as possible without letting the vanes takeover.If you get it tuned with no fletching and then fletch.You will know that there is contact and you can go from there.

Kanga

If you dont want to cut all your arrows back just cut one and see how that one flies.

Buck Magnet

Thanks guys,

I will probablly cut them down and see what happens. I will do like Aussie suggested and probablly only cut one or two of them down. If that works, well, I will cut them all and be happy, if not, looks like I will be buying new arrows, and the BlackHawks will be to help control the rabbits getting into my garden

Cougar, I said I had no fletching contact, not fletching clearance. We checked that out and everything was perfect. I am not using a helical, I am using 4 degree right offset.

Probablly next week I will get them cut down and see what happnes. Hopefully that works, but, if it doesn' t, I will not be buying any BlackHawk arrows again.