Broadheads shoot low when practicing
09-03-2009, 01:53 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
Well Todd.... at 20 yards I can notice a difference.... and I figure you can probably shoot better than me... at 25 and 30 yards I'm for sure noticing a difference.... the thing shoots good enough for me not to fool with anymore... I'm the only thing limiting that bows accuracy at this point... she's bout perfect.
09-03-2009, 02:15 PM
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
Well Todd.... at 20 yards I can notice a difference.... and I figure you can probably shoot better than me... at 25 and 30 yards I'm for sure noticing a difference.... the thing shoots good enough for me not to fool with anymore... I'm the only thing limiting that bows accuracy at this point... she's bout perfect.
It isn't drag that is causing it at 20 yards.
09-03-2009, 03:46 PM
#13
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
Sorry guys, I did say go the wrong way with the rest...I didn't sleep well last night plus, I'm getting old with the CRS disease...
I have thought about these adjustments for 40 years of bow hunting and no, I can't really explain...
The best I can say is that with every bow and broadhead I have had going back to the 60s then I had to make a few slight adjustments after the initial setup...Look at it this way, the initial setup gets you in the ball park but doesn't take into effect the blades on a broadhead, or your shooting style...Only shooting and tweeking does...
Now...For awhile I just adjusted the sights, problem solved...Not exactly...See, I shoot fingers and could see a little kick when I only adjusted the sights...When I take the time and make these final adjustments, the kick goes away and the groups shrink...I literally watch the arrow hit the target where my pin is...I also see the arrow spin in flight...It's like you are centering the string to the arrow at the time the arrow leaves the string so the arrow has no side to side or up and down stress at the point of release...
So, in my opinion, it's worth the time...Usually you are talking only one or two shooting sessions to make these final adjustments...
Also...I'm one of those guys that goes to shooting broadheads only a month before the season...I shoot 12-15 times a day, one shot at a time...
I have thought about these adjustments for 40 years of bow hunting and no, I can't really explain...
The best I can say is that with every bow and broadhead I have had going back to the 60s then I had to make a few slight adjustments after the initial setup...Look at it this way, the initial setup gets you in the ball park but doesn't take into effect the blades on a broadhead, or your shooting style...Only shooting and tweeking does...
Now...For awhile I just adjusted the sights, problem solved...Not exactly...See, I shoot fingers and could see a little kick when I only adjusted the sights...When I take the time and make these final adjustments, the kick goes away and the groups shrink...I literally watch the arrow hit the target where my pin is...I also see the arrow spin in flight...It's like you are centering the string to the arrow at the time the arrow leaves the string so the arrow has no side to side or up and down stress at the point of release...
So, in my opinion, it's worth the time...Usually you are talking only one or two shooting sessions to make these final adjustments...
Also...I'm one of those guys that goes to shooting broadheads only a month before the season...I shoot 12-15 times a day, one shot at a time...
09-03-2009, 06:55 PM
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
Personal Foul....
You can't tell me what it isn't without telling me what it is... thats dirty play my man.
When I move the rest... or the nock point... and get it to hit in the exact same spot.... my trajectory actually gets steeper.... meaning that while I might be dead on at 15 yards with FP and BH.... and one inch low at 20 with BHs.... when I make it dead one with FPs and BHs at 20.... I'll be two inches or better high at 10.... three inches high at 15.... dead on at 20 and an inch or so low at 25..... doesn't make any sense to me.... but thats what she does. And I've spent three months tweeking and testing and grouping and averaging..... she shoots where I'm looking and thats all I can ask for... I personally am getting to the point now where I could care less if my BHs and FPs shoot to the same POI.... because I am honestly probably just going to practice with BHs year round off my hunting bow. If she tunes up with those... and its a hunting bow.... I see no reason to fool with anything else.
09-03-2009, 07:25 PM
#15
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
Personal Foul....
You can't tell me what it isn't without telling me what it is... thats dirty play my man.
When I move the rest... or the nock point... and get it to hit in the exact same spot.... my trajectory actually gets steeper.... meaning that while I might be dead on at 15 yards with FP and BH.... and one inch low at 20 with BHs.... when I make it dead one with FPs and BHs at 20.... I'll be two inches or better high at 10.... three inches high at 15.... dead on at 20 and an inch or so low at 25..... doesn't make any sense to me.... but thats what she does. And I've spent three months tweeking and testing and grouping and averaging..... she shoots where I'm looking and thats all I can ask for... I personally am getting to the point now where I could care less if my BHs and FPs shoot to the same POI.... because I am honestly probably just going to practice with BHs year round off my hunting bow. If she tunes up with those... and its a hunting bow.... I see no reason to fool with anything else.
You can't tell me what it isn't without telling me what it is... thats dirty play my man.
When I move the rest... or the nock point... and get it to hit in the exact same spot.... my trajectory actually gets steeper.... meaning that while I might be dead on at 15 yards with FP and BH.... and one inch low at 20 with BHs.... when I make it dead one with FPs and BHs at 20.... I'll be two inches or better high at 10.... three inches high at 15.... dead on at 20 and an inch or so low at 25..... doesn't make any sense to me.... but thats what she does. And I've spent three months tweeking and testing and grouping and averaging..... she shoots where I'm looking and thats all I can ask for... I personally am getting to the point now where I could care less if my BHs and FPs shoot to the same POI.... because I am honestly probably just going to practice with BHs year round off my hunting bow. If she tunes up with those... and its a hunting bow.... I see no reason to fool with anything else.
I wasn't going to speculate on what was going on with your setup.You know it better than I do but fieldpoints and broadheads should hit the same spot at 20 yards,drag has nothing to do with it that close.I can guess spine,contact,timing,inadequate fletch,rest dropping too soon but I can't say for sure about what is causing it,but I can say without a doubt it is not drag.
09-04-2009, 04:05 PM
#16
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 919
Would slightly raising or lowering the rest have the same affect as raising or lowering the knocking point for broadhead tuning purposes? It seems to me that it would but i figured i'd ask the experts haha
09-04-2009, 04:47 PM
#18
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 21,043
Question....
Would the blades of a large, fixed blade BH not also create drag? Seems to me (in my head) that they'd have to create a lot more drag than a FP.
If your fletchings/feathers create drag (due to them being raised and spinning), then why wouldn't the blades of your BH.....if they're doing the same thing (raised and spinning).
Just asking.
Would the blades of a large, fixed blade BH not also create drag? Seems to me (in my head) that they'd have to create a lot more drag than a FP.
If your fletchings/feathers create drag (due to them being raised and spinning), then why wouldn't the blades of your BH.....if they're doing the same thing (raised and spinning).
Just asking.
09-04-2009, 05:08 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Question....
Would the blades of a large, fixed blade BH not also create drag? Seems to me (in my head) that they'd have to create a lot more drag than a FP.
If your fletchings/feathers create drag (due to them being raised and spinning), then why wouldn't the blades of your BH.....if they're doing the same thing (raised and spinning).
Just asking.
Would the blades of a large, fixed blade BH not also create drag? Seems to me (in my head) that they'd have to create a lot more drag than a FP.
If your fletchings/feathers create drag (due to them being raised and spinning), then why wouldn't the blades of your BH.....if they're doing the same thing (raised and spinning).
Just asking.
09-04-2009, 07:41 PM
#20
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 919
Thanks for the info TFox - I thought it would work but I wanted to be sure. I have the new whisker biscuit sure shot pro which is micro adjustable but i figured I better ask before i start moving stuff haha