jimmy28303

ummmmmmm, get your bow tuned and check the spine on your arrows.

im ocd

I will not move the sight. [:'(]
Paper tune the bow. Get a repeatable bullet tear.
Check to see if broadheads hit same POI as field points.
If it does not, then change the broadhead and see if a different model flies better.

I’ve shot Slick Trick magnums @ 40 yards and they flew great, I didn't try further.
I've shot standards out to 60 and they fly great too.
Bow is paper tuned, Blazer fletching. Arrow speed 293-294 fps.

wis_bow_huntr

I find it easier to move my sight. Since I use and HHA sight its quick and painless. Dont have to resquare anything.

UncleNorby

Like others said, if your arrow spine is correct and your BHs don't hit where your FPs do, your bow is probably out of tune. Move your rest very slightly toward where your FPs hit. If your BHs group to the right of your FPs, move the rest left. Same for up/down. Shoot more groups with both. Keep at it until you get them as close as you can. Then you may need to adjust the sight.

Bob H in NH

I've done both depends on several things.

I will start with tuning, moving the rest to get them as close as I can, sometimes it just doesn't work, but you can also play with the BH - spin it, the nock - spin it, different fletch etc.

You say "3 inches", well at what distance? at 20 yards this is a good amount so I'd tune, at 40-50, it would probably be "on" at 20. I'd be tempted to move the sight.

If BH are grouping VERY tight at all distances, just hitting off from field points, I'd move the sight.

rybohunter

Usually moving the sight is a band-aid. Unless it’s just a minor tweakage.

I tweak my rest until I get them as close as possible. What I have noticed with thunderheads is that no matter what I do, they will hit a little low compared to FP’s and it gets progressively lower as distance increases. At 20 yds, its slightly noticeable, but at 45-50, its significant enough to need a pin adjustment.

RobinAim Low

Move the rest. Paper tuning is just a start and may or may not get you there. I don't even mess with paper anymore. Set it up by eyeball. Then broadhead tune. Does not take much time if you start with broadheads that you know spin true.

marshall9779

If your bow is tuned with field points but your broadheads are not hitting the same spot but grouping well, I would adjust your sights for the broadheads. That's what you are hunting with. When you are practcing with field points just shoot for the groups knowing that the impact point is different.

Crowkilla

First I paper tune the bow. If you'recutting to the left or right, move the rest. If you're cutting up or down, move the nock point. Don't fool with the sights. You can also take the bow to your bowshop and the guy may have a lazer tuner. If so, he will be able to check the alignment of the arrow in relation to the rest, cams, and knock point.

I generally just eyeball it. What I mean by eyeball is I set the bow up on two saw horses (if you don't have these, find two equal, level planes), nock an arrow, and let it hang perpendicular to the ground. Then I stand over the bow and "eyeball" the position of the rest in relation to the arrow. Sounds ridiculous, but it sure does work. It all just has to be level. My BHs fly dead straight, and I use Muzzys, which pitch hard left or right if the bow is poorly tuned or torqued.

tkycaller

Thanks for the replies.
I know what I would do and have done it in the past. I move the rest to get them grouping as close as possible. Then tweak the sights if need be.

I believe that is what the majority of you have said.