View Poll Results: A poll
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll
Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...*POLL*
#41
RE: Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...
Thanks a lot. I had no clue what you were going to be looking at with the loop, but it sure does make sense. You can definitely see my release hook above the arrow in my form picture. I guess I'll give it a go then and see what comes of it. Now as for the loop/nock position, is it simply a matter of setting the nock position ~1/8" high (because Rob, correct me if I'm wrong here) I think we may have just set the arrow leveled and so it was passing through the top 1/3 of the berger holes. How does changing the nockheight effect where the release attaches to the loop assuming the ends of the loop or flush with both nock points?
#42
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blossvale, New York
Posts: 21,199
RE: Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...
To each his own. You have to make the choice, not a poll. I think it would depend on a lot of factors. If you've shot like I have for 36 or 37 years, your muscles in you one side are so inferior to the muscles in the side you've been shooting with. It would be a tough haul to change for me. Now if I were a teenie bopper and only shooting a couple years, well heck, you'd be back to ground zero after switching in no time. If you're going to switch you have to go lower poundage and don't expect miracles immediately. Time will shift the balance and make all well. Someone like Len that shoots as well left handed as he does right handed because he's tuned a zillion bows from both sides.... a switch is nothing. For others it's a chore. If you're a target shooter mainly I think you can do with the squinty eye. As a hunter, I just have to have both eyes wide open to see the world. If you're just against changing, then shut the left eye totally and go with that.
#43
RE: Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...
ORIGINAL: M.Hensler/PA
Thanks a lot. I had no clue what you were going to be looking at with the loop, but it sure does make sense. You can definitely see my release hook above the arrow in my form picture. I guess I'll give it a go then and see what comes of it. Now as for the loop/nock position, is it simply a matter of setting the nock position ~1/8" high (because Rob, correct me if I'm wrong here) I think we may have just set the arrow leveled and so it was passing through the top 1/3 of the berger holes. How does changing the nockheight effect where the release attaches to the loop assuming the ends of the loop or flush with both nock points?
Thanks a lot. I had no clue what you were going to be looking at with the loop, but it sure does make sense. You can definitely see my release hook above the arrow in my form picture. I guess I'll give it a go then and see what comes of it. Now as for the loop/nock position, is it simply a matter of setting the nock position ~1/8" high (because Rob, correct me if I'm wrong here) I think we may have just set the arrow leveled and so it was passing through the top 1/3 of the berger holes. How does changing the nockheight effect where the release attaches to the loop assuming the ends of the loop or flush with both nock points?
Set your nock position so that the release is pulling directly behind the release, not above it like you can see yours is doing (do this after setting the tiller to 0). Once you have the release drawing directly behind the nock, then adjust your rest height so that it is approx 1/8" nock high for a single cam, and shoot through paper at 5 yards or so to check and see that you aren't getting any funky tears. Hope this makes sense.
#44
RE: Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...
Good call Matt,I knew where you were headed but wanted you to go ahead and explain it.
I never even thought of this untill you said you wanted to see the loop up close.
Tiller out 3/16" can cause problems.
I never even thought of this untill you said you wanted to see the loop up close.
Tiller out 3/16" can cause problems.
#45
RE: Switch to LH...Having second thoughts...
ORIGINAL: Rick James
OK, now nock height (from 90 degree square) and nock loop position are two different things. One is where the pulling point of the loop is in relation to the nock of the arrow. The other is a measurement of square from arrow to string at static.
Set your nock position so that the release is pulling directly behind the release, not above it like you can see yours is doing (do this after setting the tiller to 0). Once you have the release drawing directly behind the nock, then adjust your rest height so that it is approx 1/8" nock high for a single cam, and shoot through paper at 5 yards or so to check and see that you aren't getting any funky tears. Hope this makes sense.
ORIGINAL: M.Hensler/PA
Thanks a lot. I had no clue what you were going to be looking at with the loop, but it sure does make sense. You can definitely see my release hook above the arrow in my form picture. I guess I'll give it a go then and see what comes of it. Now as for the loop/nock position, is it simply a matter of setting the nock position ~1/8" high (because Rob, correct me if I'm wrong here) I think we may have just set the arrow leveled and so it was passing through the top 1/3 of the berger holes. How does changing the nockheight effect where the release attaches to the loop assuming the ends of the loop or flush with both nock points?
Thanks a lot. I had no clue what you were going to be looking at with the loop, but it sure does make sense. You can definitely see my release hook above the arrow in my form picture. I guess I'll give it a go then and see what comes of it. Now as for the loop/nock position, is it simply a matter of setting the nock position ~1/8" high (because Rob, correct me if I'm wrong here) I think we may have just set the arrow leveled and so it was passing through the top 1/3 of the berger holes. How does changing the nockheight effect where the release attaches to the loop assuming the ends of the loop or flush with both nock points?
Set your nock position so that the release is pulling directly behind the release, not above it like you can see yours is doing (do this after setting the tiller to 0). Once you have the release drawing directly behind the nock, then adjust your rest height so that it is approx 1/8" nock high for a single cam, and shoot through paper at 5 yards or so to check and see that you aren't getting any funky tears. Hope this makes sense.
Someone like Len that shoots as well left handed as he does right handed because he's tuned a zillion bows from both sides