907Alaska

I fought the eye dominance problem for years, and then made the switch to LH at Christmas, as far as shooting and hunting it was one of the best things I have done concerning my shooting. I also was recovering from a severley pulled muscle in my left arm, it didn't bother me to much...I am stronger in my right arm and could probably pull back a 80# bow if necessary,but I could not make the eye work right, in going LHI just had to adjust my poundage down for awile, I actually started with another bow with a 50# drawback and slowly worked my way to 65#. It will be ackward for awhile, but just stay with it. Even today I still shoot some RH without sights of course and can maintain a kill shot at 25yrds.

MGH_PA

I already did...

MGH_PA

Explain what you mean by the best thing you could have done for your shooting. Has your accuracy improved dramatically? Even in a months time? Or was it just light gathering/focusing ability that improved. I plan to draw my bow back when it gets here and see how it goes. I may just play with drawing drills to see how it feels, and I'll have a better idea on whether or not it's going to work for me or not. Btw, great quote in your sig. Love the movie.

MGH_PA

Ok I have pictures and tiller measurements for Matt and anyone else who can offer input. Matt, I wasn't sure how much of the loop/bow you wanted in the picture (I don't even know what you're looking for[&:]), so here's two shots.







Now, my tiller measurements resulted in a ~3/16" difference, with it being longer from limb pocket to the string I tied around the axles up top than it was on the bottom.

Finally, here's a picture I took just now of my new anchor that is comfortable to me. If I were to keep this, I would need to move my peep up quite high. I also noticed this pictured (compared to those in the big fat shooting thread) my release arm/elbow is angling up instead of straight back. Not a good thing I imagine. You can also see my bow arm dipping as well.

Ben / PA

I am have no experience with LH accessories as I am in the exact position that Matt was in. I know I am strongly left eye dominant and I have too made the plunge. My new bow will be in approx two weeks after I ordered it. Is that long to wait for a bow? I would much rather be going the other way for the slightly used discount market that is out there.

I truly think that you are obsessing too much about this Matt. AT this point you still have the RH Ross, keep it. You already shelled out for the LH setup, keep it. Work on the LH shooting and if it comes and you see the benefit, shoot that way and be happy for the improvement. If not or if you aren't ready by hunting season, hunt the Ross. I don't see a downside except for time spent with a bow in your hands and thats a good thing in my mind. Since we are both gonna be doing the same thing, we will probably have a blast with it. If you don't go down the road far enough you can't see where it goes. Maybe I am off my rocker but I am gonna give it a shot. If I was only hunting, I would still have the Commander (RH). But I want to go further with the 3D thing so I want every advantage in my corner.

MGH_PA

Well that's the thing. Allow TECHNICALLY I can afford to keep both bows, I wasn't planning on it. I was planning to sell one or the other...keep the LH and dive full on in, or back out and sell the LH AND the Ross for a newew RH bow. Are you planning to do dry drawing drills and then blank bailing for a month or so, or are you going to jump right into it?

Ben / PA

alittle of both, but mostly jumping right in...it's who i am

MGH_PA

Lol, this is true.

Rick James

This picture shows what I had assumed.

First thing you need to do is add turns to the top limb pocket/subtract from the bottom till you get your desired draw weight, and the tiller measured this way is even.

Once you get this done, I'd recommend shooting the bow for a couple dozen arrows. At this point you want to look at the loop and see where the release is sitting. You can see from the wear on your loop picture above that your release is sitting at full draw above the nock of the arrow. This could be due to tiller adjustments (3/16" is a big difference) or it could be simply be from the nocks/loop being in the wrong spot. You want that to be in the right spot and then adjust the rest for proper nock height (probably 1/8" high or so on most single cams). You can seein the picwhere the loopis kinked from the release, it's not inline with the arrow, you are drawing and holding that bow from a position above where the center of the string is. As an analogy, think of it this way..........imagine trying to draw the bow from 4" under the top idler wheel. What direction would the bow want to point if you did get it back this way?

So in short:

Add turns to the top limb/subtract from the bottom until your tiller = 0 on both ends

Shoot a couple dozen arrows to get some wear on the loop and see what your holding characteristics are like

Analyze what the loop looks like and see where the release is sitting in relation to your nock

Move the nock points/loop accordingly

Fine tune tiller at this point to get the holding characteristics you want. Add to the top to get it to float without dropping and vice versa.

Rick James

And I wouldn't do much with your form. It looks pretty good. If you are in a relaxed state and can use tension in your back to hold your shot without tension creeping into your arms/shoulders or anywhere else, I wouldn't do much else with it.