Matt / PA

Yeah as soon as you start floating an anchor around where it shouldn't be it can be hard to say what it will look like in a proper position combined with the shoulder position.
Without physically grabbing ahold of you and moving you a round like Gumby it's always hard to tell an exact fit.

TFOX

You are definately better but every picture is different,every one.

I agree,that the anchor appears to be high but you are also letting the front shoulder ride up on you instead of just back into the socket but the good news is you are really correcting the lean.

I will say now that it does APPEAR to be too long by maybe a 1/2",there was just too much lean before to say for sure.If you were shooting spots,I believe the draw would be very managable with a few form tweaks.I actually believe if you were to get everything right form wise,the draw length would be very close to being right,atleast within an 1/8" to 1/4".Shortening it now MIGHT help you correct a few of the issue.


You look uncomfortable probably because you are.Look at your chest,you are sucking it up into your chin or so it appears.Like your whole upper body looks like you took a deep breath and are holding it,that will cause fatique and will never allow you to RELAX and make a solid shot.

Greg / MO

Things that still jump out to me...

Front shoulder is hunched up, compressed, loaded... whatever terminology you want to insert. Allowing it to settle lower into your shoulder socket may extend your arm enough that you don't have to drop any more in dl.

Secondly... Matt turned me on a couple years ago to the benefits of shooting today's "shorty" heads as I call them. I had been shooting the old classic Scott caliper, and he had already made the jump to the Wildcat. I bought one of those and immediately gained 1/2" in dl. It looks like you've got a lot of release barrel sticking out from your wrist to your nocking point that's robbing you of much-needed draw length as well.

If the combination of those two tips don't work, then Matt's definitely right about needing to cut another 1/2" off. I'm suspecting however that if you try those two things first, you may be ok.

Here's what points to those two needs: Matt already mentioned you leaning your head back and to the right. (second to last pic as an example.) You may have done this in that pic attempting to "find" your anchor; in other words, your hand looks like it's placed at least moreso against your jaw than in the following pic. In the last pic, notice how your release hand almost seem to float in mid air around your ear... That's what Matt was talking about finding a good bone-on-bone contact point against your jawline. It'll make for a much more consistent release and give you much more repeatability.

Greg / MO

Looks like several posts were made while I was typing mine pointing out the same things... Of course, that only serves to offer more reassurance that you're hearing sound advice.

Rick James

I hate to wh0re pics of myself on here, but my coach has shown me to identify shoulder positions by looking at the gap between the top of that shoulder and the arrow. That's a really good indicator of where it's sitting.

buckmaster

while you were typing greg i went and took some more pics, im determined so nothing was done to the release but i DID try to anchor this time.... just a sec....

buckmaster

[&:]Ok guys may or may not be any better, but bare with me im tryin...






Oh yeh you were talking about the arrow line... i have no rest on the bow so dont use my arrow as a guide.

TFOX

RJ,post all the pics of your form you can,it is a good example and some just don't know what good form looks like.

Mine is similar to yours but yours is better.I have actually adjusted mine a little and need to take some pics to see what it looks like.

TFOX

X'2

It looks like the release is pretty short but could be shortened a little more on the strap.

buckmaster

How do you get your shoulder that low? mine dont do that[&:]