GMMAT

You guys are missing the point.....or I am.

What am I gaining by going to a lighter arrow (which it would be)? For a 20yd shot......310fps? My setup will handle the extra weight.

What am I sacrificing?

BobCo19-65

I don't think it would be an issue as long as everything is perfect with the shot and POI and the arrow has the time/distance needed to stabilize. But anything that could add to an arrow that is already trying to stabilize from the stiff reaction coming off the bow might add an additional dimension to flight especiallyin hunting conditions.

mobow

In short, a properly spined arrow will stabilize in flight MUCH quicker than an improperly spined one. I know you're shooting mechanicals, but when you screw on a fixed blade head to an arrow that is already working hard to stabilize itself, well....It's amplified tremendously.

Now, will that matter much at 20 yards? Like Bob said, probably not if it has time to stabilize itself. If the arrow is still stabilizing itself when it hits said target, it won't hit squarely, and KE will be absorbed by the arrow instead of transferred to the BH, thus affecting penetration.

We all know a properly tuned bow is the most accurate, and efficient. Properly spined arrows are part of that equation. But as has been said, it's better to be over than under. If you're under, your arrow is burning up the KE by flexing.

I know what I'm trying to say darnint, but maybe I'm not saying it very well....

buckeye

I shoot .300 spine shafts for most everything.... They always fly good for me....

How about starting with a .300 spine arrow, with 65 grain fp's and arrows cut at 27.5 inches....

That's stiff..... Seems to be shooting awfuly good out of my Marquis set at 60 pounds

BowHuntingFool

Pretty cut and dry! Shooting the correct arrow is a win-win situation! Why wouldn't you want to shoot the correct arrow???

MeanV2

I try to get the arrow spine as close as possible. Why not? If I want a heavy or light arrow I can still accomplish that and stay within the proper spine range

Dan

TFOX

Here is what dave cousins has to say about overspined arrows.[align=left]

Tips.
Arrow setup.

The reason for the heavy point is to get the arrow to spine correctly for my set up. Under normal standards the 2512 and 2315 would be too stiff at proper shaft length and recommended point weight.
Due to the fact we are only able to shoot 60 lbs. max for FITA I have to weaken the shaft in order to shoot one as large in diameter as the 25xx and 23xx. I use three ways to weaken or stiffen a shaft so that it performs well from my bow with out adjusting the draw weight.
1. Shaft length, the longer a shaft is the weaker it will react off the bow. The opposite is true for a shorter shaft.
2. Point weight, the heaver a point is the weaker it will make a shaft react off the bow. The opposite is true for a lighter point.
3. Fletching, The lighter you fletching is the weaker it will make the shaft react off the bow. The opposite is true for heaver fletching.
Finding out what works for you is what it’s all about. There are two schools of thought on setting up indoor arrows.
1. The first school of thought, you spine them to your set up in order to get the most forgiven arrow you can
2. The second school of thought, you don’t spine them at all and shoot the biggest diameter shaft at the shortest length you can get away with as little fletching and point weight as possible and let form be your guide.
With the second method only perfect shots will go in the middle. I prefer the first school of thought because no one is perfect all the time and I don’t mind having a little slop.
Of course there is a third school of thought on this. It’s the one that states you should shoot the arrow that best matches your set up regardless of diameter.
But then you run the risk of being made fun of by your shooting buddies when they notice your shooting much smaller arrows than them!














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TFOX

It is so much easier to get a near perfect tune with a properly spined arrow and that is crucial for great broadhead flight.

GMMAT

I appreciate everyone's input.....but I'm just one of those that needs to know "why".

"Why" (in the setu I mentioned) is being overspined a bad thing? It has advantages (xtra weight). I haven't heard anything detrimental.....other than blanket overpsine rhetoric.

How much "correction" can occur at 300fps at <20yds? I'm being serious.

I never changed my setup between these arrows and the ones I shot that were much lighter (Radial X-Weaves) whenI was turkey hunting. I never had to chnge the sight. My target arrows were 60gr lighter....and I shot the exact same setup.....never moving anything. Never had to.

I just never experienced anything erratic.....or even close in my arrow flight.

TFOX

I am going to split hairs here but for the record,hunting arrows and even to a small degree,3-d arrows can be a little overspined and most will not be able to tell the difference,so with that out of the way.


For hunting the only reason is tuning.A properly spined arrow will absorb the energy from the bow and not shed the energy.

The arrow is a shock absorber as well as a tuning fork.The spine has to be close to absorb all the energy and not kick .An arrow that even wants to kick doesn't tune as well as one that absorbs and rockets forward.This will be a big advantage when trying to get field tips and broadheads to hit the same spot.

The tuning fork scenario really comes into play downrange at extreme distances.A properly spined arrow will vibrate all the way to the target just like a tuning fork,when this is lost,so is stability.That is why you see fita arrows and such with so many different spines.Another reason is for finger shooters for whom spine is a huge factor.