mfhunter27

Hello Everyone!! Couple Questions For You All!

1) Is draw length measured to the bowstring or to the end of a string loop if you use one?

2) I am getting cx hunter maxima arrows! I have a 26 inch draw length, and shoot a hoyt powertec with a 60# dw! Do I get the 250 or 350? And what length should they be? Would 28 inches be good?

THANK YOU ALL, AGAIN, VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Rich

Rhody Hunter

draw length is to the loop . I would put the arrow on the bow pull it back and have some one mark it about 3/4 past the rest and have them cut there






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Paul L Mohr

Amo draw length is to the string, or better yet use an arrow to determine the draw length. Draw the bow with an arrow in it ( pointed in a safe direction) and have someone mark the arrow right above your grip, or where the hole is that the rest mounts to. Then let the bow down. Now measure from the groove in the nock to where the mark on the arrow is. Or I like to leave the arrow nocked and measure from the string to the mark on the arrow.

Now add 1 3/4 inches to that measurement and that is your AMO draw length.

If you have a 26 inch draw length 28 inch arrows would be considered long. Nothing wrong with that if you can get the spine to match, but they are longer than needed and will add more weight than you need if that is a concern. AMO arrow length is actually about 3/4 of an inch less than your draw length for a modern compound. Most shoot the same length arrow as their draw length, and that works pretty well in most cases.

I shoot a longer arrow because I like a specific arrow that spines stiff for my set up. A longer arrow will be weaker than a shorter one. Keep that in mind when picking an arrow. If you look it up on a chart or an online calculator it will base your draw length off from the arrow length you give it. If you tell it you are shooting a 28 inch arrow it will assume you have close to a 29 inch draw length. The arrow it suggests will probably be close enough to work, but will most likely be on the stiff side I think.

If you use a program or chart that goes off from your draw length and doesn't ask for arrow length and you tell it 26 inches, then use a 28 inch arrow you will be underspined most likely.

I use a program that lets you tell it both the draw length and arrow length so you can use whatever arrow length you want to and still get pretty close on spine.

Without actually runing your set up on a program I would guess you will want the 250's if they are the weaker spine. 350's sound a bit stiff for your set up, it is almost identical to mine except I shoot a bowtech mighty might.

Paul

taz88

if my draw is 28 inches how long should my arrows be and where do you muersure the arrow from tip of head to where it connects to the string

Nomercy448

There are at least 3 "rules of thumb" for how to determine finished arrow length for a compound bow:

Shortest Safe Length: When drawn, with the bow set at your proper draw length - your SHAFT should reach 1/4" in front of your rest. I highlighted "SHAFT" there to differentiate between broadhead and insert/ferrule. The end of the shaft itself, NOT including the insert, should be 1/4" in front of the rest, so if you didn't have ANY tip installed, you'd have a bit more than 3/8" in front of your rest when fully drawn. This is the absolute shortest you should ever consider cutting your arrows. If you have a need to extend your draw length, even a half inch, you will not be able to do so without getting new arrows. This is NOT safe for bows that don't have a solid back wall - in other words if you hit the draw stops and can continue to draw back slightly, then this length is not safe. Any shorter than this and you can potentially draw the arrow out the back of the rest, which might mean it stabs through your arm/hand or through your neighbor.

Standard Minimum Length: Most guys will consider the minimum proper length to be the middle of the berger hole when drawn (Berger hole = threaded hole in the riser where your rest is mounted). Again, this is the length of the cut shaft, not counting the insert. This gives a little bit more safety, and a bit more versatility for changing your draw length.

Super-Safe Length: Cut the shafts flush with the front edge of the riser, or even 1/2" or 1" in front of the riser, when fully drawn. This puts the broadhead fully in front of the shooters hand, which is particularly important for fixed broadhead shooters, and especially so for "extreme" diameter turkey heads like Bullheads or Guillotines. It DOES HAPPEN that fixed broadhead shooters, firing open handed with a lot of heel in their bow and improper hand form can stick their fingers up into the path of the arrow. This eliminates that possibility.

I personally cut all of my arrows to 1/4" past my rest, the minimum safe length, except for my "turkey arrows" which are 1/4" longer than the front of my riser when drawn.

To mark these positions, have a friend with a pencil/pen mark the arrow when you are fully drawn. I've started using dental bands around the shaft instead, I'll put the band around the shaft near the tip, then have my buddy roll it rearward until it's in the right spot. A lot of guys will criticize one thing or the other for marking shafts, no telling who is right: pens/markers dissolve the resin in carbon shafts, pencils scratch the shaft which can weaken it, blah blah... Rubber band aint going to hurt it either way, and it's just as fast.