what would you do?
12-16-2002, 02:43 AM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vermilion Ohio
Posts: 183
RE: what would you do?
i would definately invest in a new bow....
bow, site, stablizer, arrows, broadheads, wrist sling, release, arrow rest, quiver, case...
look at spending somewhere in the neighborhood of $500. but a good hunting setup will last forever if you want it to. but like anything we get into we always seem to have to have all the "new" bells and whistles that come on the market. man if we could only live by the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it", but then again that wouldn't be any fun now would it? LOL
bow, site, stablizer, arrows, broadheads, wrist sling, release, arrow rest, quiver, case...
look at spending somewhere in the neighborhood of $500. but a good hunting setup will last forever if you want it to. but like anything we get into we always seem to have to have all the "new" bells and whistles that come on the market. man if we could only live by the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it", but then again that wouldn't be any fun now would it? LOL
12-16-2002, 12:30 PM
#13
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Fredericksburg Virginia USA
Posts: 13,672
RE: what would you do?
mauser here is that old meddling geezer Taz butting in again to give his opinion!!! LOL
The best advice I have seen here if you are short on cash is to take it to a bow shop, explain to them you are strapped for cash, but would like to see how much it would cost to bring that bow up to it's potential.
I killed my first this year with a bow 20 years old, Bear Black Bear, 65 pounds. No stabilizer, the original pin sights, I yanked 3 of the 4 pins out, set the one raminder at 20 yards and practiced, the bow still shoots great, but I will confess I am going to get a new bow since I got my first bowkill.
If you are strapped for cash and are saving money for a truck to allow you to hunt on your own, as long as the bow shop can set you up right,fix up the old one, a whole lot better to have a used bow that shoots well and a truck, than to blow a lot of money on a new one and not get the truck. Oh yea and by the way, I can assure you, if you practice enough with the old bow to get good, when you have the money for a new bow, you will really appreciate it and be a better shooter.
The Tazman aka Martin Price
Founder and President of
Virginia Disabled Outdoorsmen Club
The best advice I have seen here if you are short on cash is to take it to a bow shop, explain to them you are strapped for cash, but would like to see how much it would cost to bring that bow up to it's potential.
I killed my first this year with a bow 20 years old, Bear Black Bear, 65 pounds. No stabilizer, the original pin sights, I yanked 3 of the 4 pins out, set the one raminder at 20 yards and practiced, the bow still shoots great, but I will confess I am going to get a new bow since I got my first bowkill.
If you are strapped for cash and are saving money for a truck to allow you to hunt on your own, as long as the bow shop can set you up right,fix up the old one, a whole lot better to have a used bow that shoots well and a truck, than to blow a lot of money on a new one and not get the truck. Oh yea and by the way, I can assure you, if you practice enough with the old bow to get good, when you have the money for a new bow, you will really appreciate it and be a better shooter.
The Tazman aka Martin Price
Founder and President of
Virginia Disabled Outdoorsmen Club
12-16-2002, 01:13 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Indiana PA USA
Posts: 3,656
RE: what would you do?
mauser,
One thing I can tell you is that you have to rely on your bow while archery hunting. If you aren't 100% sure that the bow will do the trick, then, I wouldn't use it. I know you are pressed for cash, I was down that road this year. I looked around and found the perfect bow for cheap. I got a 2002 Hoyt MT Sport with ZR200 limbs and the Versa Cam for around 300.00 dollars. This is just a base bow with nothing, but, it was a good deal for the performance. The bow is short (34 1/2" axle to axle length), light (just under 4 pounds), moderatly fast (277 f.p.s.), but, the thing has a HUGE HUGE brace height. The brace height is what I was looking for. A brace height is the distance from the string to the middle of the grip when the bow is not drawn back. What a bigger brace height does is it means that the arrow is on the string for a shorter amount of time. This allows for better shots because there is less chance of you pulling or torqueing the bow the wrong way.
I would check out the 2001 or 2002 Hoyt MT Sports. You could get one pretty cheap now because Hoyt has entirely redone their bows for 2003.
Shop around. I spent MONTHS upon MONTHS looking at bow statistics to find what I wanted. Here are a few things to look for.
Axle to axle length- I prefer smaller bows, so, I would suggest something between 33-36".
Brace height- I would say 7-8 1/2" for a beginner, this will make the bow easier and more comfortable to shoot.
Speed- This is one of the most over rated things about bows, sure, a bow that is incredibly fast is nice, but, by no means nessacary. I would suggest somewhere between 270-300 I.B.O. speed.
Weight- My preference is something light. I don't want a bow that is going to strain my arm while I am holding it at full draw. I would go with something 4 1/4 pounds or less, 3 1/2 pounds would be ideal.
Limb choice- This is pretty much a preference of looks. I went with a split limb bow, I like the looks and tests have shown that Hoyt split limb bows are stronger than most competitiors solid limb bows. For the most part though, it is just preference.
Cams- I went with a single cam bow. They require less care in a way. Dual cam bows needed to be timed every once in awhile. Hoyt came out with the new cam and a half system, but, these are on their new bows which might be a little to pricey.
As far as accessories.
Arrow Rest- I would go with a N.A.P. QuickTune 3000 micro, it is a little expensive at 69.99 dollars, but, its by far the easiest arrow rest to use and tune.
Sight- Thats pretty much up to you, you dont need a 99.99 dollar sight to shoot good. Make sure the sight you get will last, thats all you really need.
Stabilizer- They aren't needed but do help in shooting and making the bow quiet. I went with a Carbon Impact Fat Gel stabilizer, it is 7 1/2" long and it is a relatively cheap stabilizer that has great performance. Look for something that is going to quiet the bow and make there be less jump/torque.
Limb Savers- Arent nessacarry but are wonderful and cheap. Wal-Mart sells them for around 15 dollas and they help make the bow really quiet and prevent vibrations.
String Silencers- Yet again aren't nessacary. I have Simms String leeches, they are amazing for quieting the bow but only last a couple thousand shots. Cat whiskers work great and are cheap and durable.
Quiver- This is just a matter of choice. Whatever fits you best. I have a Kwikee Combo kwiver so I can hold either carbon or aluminum arrows tipped with either fixed or mechanical broadheads.
Wrist Sling- This is a option that I would definetly get. They help you hold the bow better and just feel better. It gives you more control of the bow.
Arrows- You have some choices here. Carbon arrows fly faster and are less prone to bend. Aluminum arrows fly true and cost less money. Check out www.edersbow.com they will build you arrows to fit you. They can cut arrows in 1/4" incraments to help you get the best arrow.
Broadheads- This is a matter of choice. You have fixed and mechanical heads. Mechanical heads fly better than MOST fixed blade broadheads but in MOST cases aren't as tough and require more skill to shoot.
Archery is a VERY in depth. It takes alot of time to get use to and you have to know your stuff, do your research.
I hope this helped and good luck in your new endevour.
Good Luck This Season: Buck Magnet
Check out my hunting PICS here http://community.webshots.com/user/buckmagnet
One thing I can tell you is that you have to rely on your bow while archery hunting. If you aren't 100% sure that the bow will do the trick, then, I wouldn't use it. I know you are pressed for cash, I was down that road this year. I looked around and found the perfect bow for cheap. I got a 2002 Hoyt MT Sport with ZR200 limbs and the Versa Cam for around 300.00 dollars. This is just a base bow with nothing, but, it was a good deal for the performance. The bow is short (34 1/2" axle to axle length), light (just under 4 pounds), moderatly fast (277 f.p.s.), but, the thing has a HUGE HUGE brace height. The brace height is what I was looking for. A brace height is the distance from the string to the middle of the grip when the bow is not drawn back. What a bigger brace height does is it means that the arrow is on the string for a shorter amount of time. This allows for better shots because there is less chance of you pulling or torqueing the bow the wrong way.
I would check out the 2001 or 2002 Hoyt MT Sports. You could get one pretty cheap now because Hoyt has entirely redone their bows for 2003.
Shop around. I spent MONTHS upon MONTHS looking at bow statistics to find what I wanted. Here are a few things to look for.
Axle to axle length- I prefer smaller bows, so, I would suggest something between 33-36".
Brace height- I would say 7-8 1/2" for a beginner, this will make the bow easier and more comfortable to shoot.
Speed- This is one of the most over rated things about bows, sure, a bow that is incredibly fast is nice, but, by no means nessacary. I would suggest somewhere between 270-300 I.B.O. speed.
Weight- My preference is something light. I don't want a bow that is going to strain my arm while I am holding it at full draw. I would go with something 4 1/4 pounds or less, 3 1/2 pounds would be ideal.
Limb choice- This is pretty much a preference of looks. I went with a split limb bow, I like the looks and tests have shown that Hoyt split limb bows are stronger than most competitiors solid limb bows. For the most part though, it is just preference.
Cams- I went with a single cam bow. They require less care in a way. Dual cam bows needed to be timed every once in awhile. Hoyt came out with the new cam and a half system, but, these are on their new bows which might be a little to pricey.
As far as accessories.
Arrow Rest- I would go with a N.A.P. QuickTune 3000 micro, it is a little expensive at 69.99 dollars, but, its by far the easiest arrow rest to use and tune.
Sight- Thats pretty much up to you, you dont need a 99.99 dollar sight to shoot good. Make sure the sight you get will last, thats all you really need.
Stabilizer- They aren't needed but do help in shooting and making the bow quiet. I went with a Carbon Impact Fat Gel stabilizer, it is 7 1/2" long and it is a relatively cheap stabilizer that has great performance. Look for something that is going to quiet the bow and make there be less jump/torque.
Limb Savers- Arent nessacarry but are wonderful and cheap. Wal-Mart sells them for around 15 dollas and they help make the bow really quiet and prevent vibrations.
String Silencers- Yet again aren't nessacary. I have Simms String leeches, they are amazing for quieting the bow but only last a couple thousand shots. Cat whiskers work great and are cheap and durable.
Quiver- This is just a matter of choice. Whatever fits you best. I have a Kwikee Combo kwiver so I can hold either carbon or aluminum arrows tipped with either fixed or mechanical broadheads.
Wrist Sling- This is a option that I would definetly get. They help you hold the bow better and just feel better. It gives you more control of the bow.
Arrows- You have some choices here. Carbon arrows fly faster and are less prone to bend. Aluminum arrows fly true and cost less money. Check out www.edersbow.com they will build you arrows to fit you. They can cut arrows in 1/4" incraments to help you get the best arrow.
Broadheads- This is a matter of choice. You have fixed and mechanical heads. Mechanical heads fly better than MOST fixed blade broadheads but in MOST cases aren't as tough and require more skill to shoot.
Archery is a VERY in depth. It takes alot of time to get use to and you have to know your stuff, do your research.
I hope this helped and good luck in your new endevour.
Good Luck This Season: Buck Magnet
Check out my hunting PICS here http://community.webshots.com/user/buckmagnet
12-16-2002, 02:51 PM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Logan Ia USA
Posts: 678
RE: what would you do?
First thing you are assuming with this bow is that it fits you. This may not be the case and if it is not then it will only cause you to have bad form when shooting and ultimately cause you many problems in the future.
Take the bow to a bow shop or have an experience archery hunter look it over with you for you. Check your draw length and draw weight of the bow. If the draw length or the draw weight is not correct for you it will be very difficult to get proper form.
As for just putting on new accessories to this bow you need to price them. There are many bow packages out there that come with all the bells and whistles for under 200.00 if you look. This is not to mention all the other benefits you can gain like flatter arrow flight, and more consistency in your shooting.
Bow hunting is not something you can just go do it is a sport that requires alot of preparation. I can tell by your comments you are ready to start this process and have enough experience to put in the time that it takes to become a good bow hunter.
Do yourself a favor and start out at a bow shop or at least have a friend help you to determine which bow will be right for you before you spend any time or money on the older bow. It may be the perfect bow for you or may be far from it.
Just a few things you should be familar with before hunting with a bow are:
Draw length and how to determine it
Draw weight and how to determine what is best for you
Paper tuning
How to pick an arrow for your draw length and weight
broadhead weights and how to allign them
broadhead vs field points
fixed blade broadheads vs mechanical
jumping the string
noc point
release vs fingers
I'm sure there are many things I am forgetting and you may know all of these things already, if you are unfamilar with any of them then just post the questions and someone will be able to explain them to you. There are also many great books available describing archery and how to get started. It is a great sport.
Good Luck
" Anyone can be a father, but it takes a real man to be a Dad"
Take the bow to a bow shop or have an experience archery hunter look it over with you for you. Check your draw length and draw weight of the bow. If the draw length or the draw weight is not correct for you it will be very difficult to get proper form.
As for just putting on new accessories to this bow you need to price them. There are many bow packages out there that come with all the bells and whistles for under 200.00 if you look. This is not to mention all the other benefits you can gain like flatter arrow flight, and more consistency in your shooting.
Bow hunting is not something you can just go do it is a sport that requires alot of preparation. I can tell by your comments you are ready to start this process and have enough experience to put in the time that it takes to become a good bow hunter.
Do yourself a favor and start out at a bow shop or at least have a friend help you to determine which bow will be right for you before you spend any time or money on the older bow. It may be the perfect bow for you or may be far from it.
Just a few things you should be familar with before hunting with a bow are:
Draw length and how to determine it
Draw weight and how to determine what is best for you
Paper tuning
How to pick an arrow for your draw length and weight
broadhead weights and how to allign them
broadhead vs field points
fixed blade broadheads vs mechanical
jumping the string
noc point
release vs fingers
I'm sure there are many things I am forgetting and you may know all of these things already, if you are unfamilar with any of them then just post the questions and someone will be able to explain them to you. There are also many great books available describing archery and how to get started. It is a great sport.
Good Luck
" Anyone can be a father, but it takes a real man to be a Dad"
12-16-2002, 05:16 PM
#16
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 9,085
RE: what would you do?
thanx for the info guys..i read the bow and the draw legnth is adjustable and right now its not much over 1/2 a inch to long for me and set an inche below the max and can come down...the drawback weight seems fine...i will definently take it to a shop though because it needs new string..and i will have them get me a quiver, rest, and possibly sights..and then tune it there(i believe they do that) and get a few arrows there and then buy the rest elsewhere because i heard they charge a ton there so i will buy them somewhere else after i get the right ones..i love the outdoors and i know bowhunting is a whole new ball game and it requiers alot and im ready for it...anything to give me a reason to be in the woods besides what i do now which is just walk around when im bored...now i wil lget to shoot all the time and constantly be scouting for that perfect tree...i cant wait! and even if i dont get the truck in time for bow season i have woods behind my house that we dont rifle hunt becasue theres to many houses around that i seen a few decint bucks in..i cant wait! thanx alot guys i will try to get a digital camera or take my first deer with a bow somewhere where i can use a digi to show you guys what you got me next year!!
