Does It REALLY Matter????
#32
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
I'm a fairly big guy.....DI catcher in college....yada, yada.....and I've endured shoulder surgery. I've also only been shooting a bow for a little over a year. I starte dout shooting 58#'s.I quickly went to 64 whenI trained those muscles.....then to 70 with my new allegiance.
My opinion.....if you can't set your sight pin on your target....and keep it on there smoothly during your draw cycle....you're over-bowed. I see guys on TV over-bowed (im MYopinion) ALL THE TIME.
Having a smooth draw cycle makes it more enjoyable for me to shoot. I shot 200+ arrows, last week. If I had to fight my bow.....I'd practice less. That's just being honest.
My opinion.....if you can't set your sight pin on your target....and keep it on there smoothly during your draw cycle....you're over-bowed. I see guys on TV over-bowed (im MYopinion) ALL THE TIME.
Having a smooth draw cycle makes it more enjoyable for me to shoot. I shot 200+ arrows, last week. If I had to fight my bow.....I'd practice less. That's just being honest.
#33
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
[blockquote]quote:
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
[blockquote]quote:
This is my point, how in the world could it matter? If the draw curve makes that big a difference, then I suspect the person drawing is WAY overbowed!
[/blockquote]
The force curve on a compound could also be important to a person with bad shoulders.
[/blockquote]
If it comes down to draw force curve then that person is overbowed no doubt about it. Maybe that person should back it down a few lbs huh? That will save his/her shoulders more than the draw force curve they choose.
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
[blockquote]quote:
This is my point, how in the world could it matter? If the draw curve makes that big a difference, then I suspect the person drawing is WAY overbowed!
[/blockquote]
The force curve on a compound could also be important to a person with bad shoulders.
[/blockquote]
If it comes down to draw force curve then that person is overbowed no doubt about it. Maybe that person should back it down a few lbs huh? That will save his/her shoulders more than the draw force curve they choose.
I'm not a doctor, however, when I used traditional or compounds with eccentric wheels I had no problems with my draw side shoulder. However, when cams started to get more radical (draw force curve also changed dramatically),I started gettingproblems. Draw weight did not matter. I always shot between 60 and 70 pounds. Went back to traditional exclusively a few years agoand have not had any problems, even with my 74# longbow. Personally, I think this all has to do with the draw force curve.
#34
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
[blockquote]quote:
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
[blockquote]quote:
This is my point, how in the world could it matter? If the draw curve makes that big a difference, then I suspect the person drawing is WAY overbowed!
[/blockquote]
The force curve on a compound could also be important to a person with bad shoulders.
[/blockquote]
If it comes down to draw force curve then that person is overbowed no doubt about it. Maybe that person should back it down a few lbs huh? That will save his/her shoulders more than the draw force curve they choose.
Maybe try to sit back and listen to other views, before cutting down opinion. This has to do with the LEARNING CURVE.
I'm not a doctor, however, when I used traditional or compounds with eccentric wheels I had no problems with my draw side shoulder. However, when cams started to get more radical (draw force curve also changed dramatically),I started gettingproblems. Draw weight did not matter. I always shot between 60 and 70 pounds. Went back to traditional exclusively a few years agoand have not had any problems, even with my 74# longbow. Personally, I think this all has to do with the draw force curve.
[blockquote]quote:
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
[blockquote]quote:
This is my point, how in the world could it matter? If the draw curve makes that big a difference, then I suspect the person drawing is WAY overbowed!
[/blockquote]
The force curve on a compound could also be important to a person with bad shoulders.
[/blockquote]
If it comes down to draw force curve then that person is overbowed no doubt about it. Maybe that person should back it down a few lbs huh? That will save his/her shoulders more than the draw force curve they choose.
I'm not a doctor, however, when I used traditional or compounds with eccentric wheels I had no problems with my draw side shoulder. However, when cams started to get more radical (draw force curve also changed dramatically),I started gettingproblems. Draw weight did not matter. I always shot between 60 and 70 pounds. Went back to traditional exclusively a few years agoand have not had any problems, even with my 74# longbow. Personally, I think this all has to do with the draw force curve.
My issue, and the point of my question is I feel alot of people have purchased bows with high poundage and maxed them out only to be just able to pull them back. Then and only then I contend the draw curve makes a difference. I have pulled alot of 60lb and 70 + pound bows back in my life time and I have yet to pull even the harshest of 60 pounders that even came close to the draw of a 70lb bow not even with the "Super Duper Butter Smooth Modules". You just can't hide 10lbs like that.
I'll say it again, if all of the bows maxed out at 40lbs NOBODY would be making draw cycle force a talking point. Why???? because it would be easy to draw, not because of the cams that are on it but because of the weight it is set at.
#36
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
BigJ I see what you are getting at. 70 is 70 is 70. If you are having trouble drawing a bow at 70 compared to another at 70, you are most likely over bowing your self and perhaps should bump her down 5 or 10 pounds rather to split hairs at the dealer deciding what bow to buy based on the draw characteristics .
But, I also see what the other guys are saying as well. I myself wouldn't want a very stout draw (no matter the poundage) that drastically drops off into the valley as this wouldbea uncomfortable transition to have such a sudden change in your draw force.
[/align]
But, I also see what the other guys are saying as well. I myself wouldn't want a very stout draw (no matter the poundage) that drastically drops off into the valley as this wouldbea uncomfortable transition to have such a sudden change in your draw force.
[/align]
#37
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
ORIGINAL: GMMAT
My opinion.....if you can't set your sight pin on your target....and keep it on there smoothly during your draw cycle....you're over-bowed. I see guys on TV over-bowed (im MYopinion) ALL THE TIME.
My opinion.....if you can't set your sight pin on your target....and keep it on there smoothly during your draw cycle....you're over-bowed. I see guys on TV over-bowed (im MYopinion) ALL THE TIME.
This was one of the reasons why I posted this question, I was watching a hunting show and the guy shooting had a hell of a time pulling his bow back. Later in the show he's talking to his buddy about his bow and says something to the effect of how he would like to try the smooth mods that are available forit. I don't need to tell you what bow he was shooting I think we all can figure it out plus it does not matter.
I sat there and thought to myself "how about turning that rig down a few lbs instead!"
#38
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
ORIGINAL: buckeyebuckhntr
BigJ I see what you are getting at. 70 is 70 is 70. If you are having trouble drawing a bow at 70 compared to another at 70, you are most likely over bowing your self and perhaps should bump her down 5 or 10 pounds rather to split hairs at the dealer deciding what bow to buy based on the draw characteristics .
But, I also see what the other guys are saying as well. I myself wouldn't want a very stout draw (no matter the poundage) that drastically drops off into the valley as this wouldbea uncomfortable transition to have such a sudden change in your draw force.
BigJ I see what you are getting at. 70 is 70 is 70. If you are having trouble drawing a bow at 70 compared to another at 70, you are most likely over bowing your self and perhaps should bump her down 5 or 10 pounds rather to split hairs at the dealer deciding what bow to buy based on the draw characteristics .
But, I also see what the other guys are saying as well. I myself wouldn't want a very stout draw (no matter the poundage) that drastically drops off into the valley as this wouldbea uncomfortable transition to have such a sudden change in your draw force.
I'll put it this way....If all bows were set to the correct poundage so that the shooter could draw with ease and keep on target the entire time, be able to shoot all day like this, I suspect draw forcewould not be as big a factor as it has become to some and thus.....wouldn't REALLY matter. Nice to have but not essential.
Gotta run...be back later
#39
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
Without knocking on any of you guys, I'm just glad I can't enjoy the intricate details that I read about in this thread. It seems that when I concentrate too much on these, it ruins my enjoyment of something. Being able to get a bow that I can afford, within budget, without taking food from my kids mouths makes buying one a fairly easy decision. I know there are differences, extreme and subtle, that cancontribute to long term enjoyment and accuracy.It's good to see and hear that people who can afford high dollar equipment actually look for something more than the price tag and prestige involved in owning it. I commend every one of you for this. Should the opportunity to get a new bow arise, I now know to focus on the draw back and pay attention to the details instead of the overall fit and feel. And I also believe that unless a flat out steal of a bargain comes along, I'll be shooting my $100 used bow for a while longer to save more toward a new, better than I would have bought, bow. I think in the long run, this thread will probably contribute to an extended period of enjoyment rather than regretting a purchase. Thank you.
#40
RE: Does It REALLY Matter????
ORIGINAL: Beezer
Without knocking on any of you guys, I'm just glad I can't enjoy the intricate details that I read about in this thread. It seems that when I concentrate too much on these, it ruins my enjoyment of something. Being able to get a bow that I can afford, within budget, without taking food from my kids mouths makes buying one a fairly easy decision. I know there are differences, extreme and subtle, that cancontribute to long term enjoyment and accuracy.It's good to see and hear that people who can afford high dollar equipment actually look for something more than the price tag and prestige involved in owning it. I commend every one of you for this. Should the opportunity to get a new bow arise, I now know to focus on the draw back and pay attention to the details instead of the overall fit and feel. And I also believe that unless a flat out steal of a bargain comes along, I'll be shooting my $100 used bow for a while longer to save more toward a new, better than I would have bought, bow. I think in the long run, this thread will probably contribute to an extended period of enjoyment rather than regretting a purchase. Thank you.
Without knocking on any of you guys, I'm just glad I can't enjoy the intricate details that I read about in this thread. It seems that when I concentrate too much on these, it ruins my enjoyment of something. Being able to get a bow that I can afford, within budget, without taking food from my kids mouths makes buying one a fairly easy decision. I know there are differences, extreme and subtle, that cancontribute to long term enjoyment and accuracy.It's good to see and hear that people who can afford high dollar equipment actually look for something more than the price tag and prestige involved in owning it. I commend every one of you for this. Should the opportunity to get a new bow arise, I now know to focus on the draw back and pay attention to the details instead of the overall fit and feel. And I also believe that unless a flat out steal of a bargain comes along, I'll be shooting my $100 used bow for a while longer to save more toward a new, better than I would have bought, bow. I think in the long run, this thread will probably contribute to an extended period of enjoyment rather than regretting a purchase. Thank you.
Oh BTW, I have been at this archery thing since I was about seven, that's 35+/- years and I just purchased my first "brand new" bow ever so you still have time.