Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Posts: 546
Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
Hi all. This is my first post to the archery forum
I bought an older PSE compound. I have set up the sights up to 40 yards. I have been practicing in my backyard. I plan to go out for Archery Turkey and archery deer on my lease in Northwestern OK.
I bought my first set of broadheads and installed them. But my groups are about 6 inches low now. A freind has suggested some mechanical tips.
Question is, Are mechanicals reliable? I remember hearing horror stories in the old days about the mechanicals failing to deploy.
SO what are some of your feelings about mechanicals and can you suggest some good ones? If you like broadheads, tell me why. NAd are there special broadheads for turkey?
Or should I just re sight in my bow with the broadheads I have?
Thanks
okcmco
I bought an older PSE compound. I have set up the sights up to 40 yards. I have been practicing in my backyard. I plan to go out for Archery Turkey and archery deer on my lease in Northwestern OK.
I bought my first set of broadheads and installed them. But my groups are about 6 inches low now. A freind has suggested some mechanical tips.
Question is, Are mechanicals reliable? I remember hearing horror stories in the old days about the mechanicals failing to deploy.
SO what are some of your feelings about mechanicals and can you suggest some good ones? If you like broadheads, tell me why. NAd are there special broadheads for turkey?
Or should I just re sight in my bow with the broadheads I have?
Thanks
okcmco
#2
RE: Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
Your friend is suggesting mechanicals because it will save you the trouble of having to properly tune your bow.
Personally, I would find a good cut on contact head like a Magnus Stinger or a Montec and work with your equipment until you get your field points and broadheads hitting the same.
Too many things can go wrong with mechanicals for me to trust them. Considering you're using an older bow, I would wonder if you'll have the needed kinetic energy required for mechanicals anyhow.
Personally, I would find a good cut on contact head like a Magnus Stinger or a Montec and work with your equipment until you get your field points and broadheads hitting the same.
Too many things can go wrong with mechanicals for me to trust them. Considering you're using an older bow, I would wonder if you'll have the needed kinetic energy required for mechanicals anyhow.
#3
RE: Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
You have several things going on. First, your form most likely isn't as consistent as it needs to be. Focus on doing the same thing every time. Second, you need to paper tune the bow. Head to your local pro shop and get it tuned up. The arrow needs to come off of the bow as straght as possible. Poor tuning is exacerbated after you install wings on the front of your arrow.
Yes, mechanicals do work, if you are producing enough KE. Dan up there gives good advice, though. Magnus Stingers are great, and fly like darts from a well tuned bow. Though I admit, I have a couple of arrows in my quiver tipped w/ Rocket Hammerheads, I use those strictly for turkeys. I use Stingers for deer.
Yes, mechanicals do work, if you are producing enough KE. Dan up there gives good advice, though. Magnus Stingers are great, and fly like darts from a well tuned bow. Though I admit, I have a couple of arrows in my quiver tipped w/ Rocket Hammerheads, I use those strictly for turkeys. I use Stingers for deer.
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Posts: 546
RE: Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
I just had my bow tuned at a pro shop. It is set up to shoot 100 grain tips andmy arrows are cut to size. The draw length is right as well. It is as quiet as an older bow can be. It is a PSE thunder flite ezpress. I would estimate it is about 10 or 11 years old. ALot has happened in the last decade as far as bow developement. I just can't afford a new bow now.
I believe I will buy several broadheads and see which I shoot best. Then I will stock up on those and properly tune my bow to those. When I get it sighted in, I will practice until my arthritis tells me to stop.
Thanks for the advice.
I believe I will buy several broadheads and see which I shoot best. Then I will stock up on those and properly tune my bow to those. When I get it sighted in, I will practice until my arthritis tells me to stop.
Thanks for the advice.
#8
RE: Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
Howdy fellow Okie... I'm in Tulsa OK.
When shooting the mechanicals, the key thing to consider is kenetic energy as you need to ensure the mechanical tip opens up on impact. There are some KE calculators online such as http://www.archeryhq.com/kin.htm (be sure you're using Microsofts Internet Explorer for this one to work) that will give you your KE numbers. I believe the general consensus is that you should be generating 65 lbs of Kinetic Energy when considering mechanicals.
All that aside, paper tuning your bow is key. You want your arrow to fly straight and not kick out to one side or another. Also consider your arrows when tuning and insure you're not underspined.
Anyway, I shoot a PSE as well and love it. It'll drive tacs I tell ya!
MS
When shooting the mechanicals, the key thing to consider is kenetic energy as you need to ensure the mechanical tip opens up on impact. There are some KE calculators online such as http://www.archeryhq.com/kin.htm (be sure you're using Microsofts Internet Explorer for this one to work) that will give you your KE numbers. I believe the general consensus is that you should be generating 65 lbs of Kinetic Energy when considering mechanicals.
All that aside, paper tuning your bow is key. You want your arrow to fly straight and not kick out to one side or another. Also consider your arrows when tuning and insure you're not underspined.
Anyway, I shoot a PSE as well and love it. It'll drive tacs I tell ya!
MS
#10
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Posts: 546
RE: Broadheads VS Mechanicals (AGAIN)
Well money is tight in thatt I can't drop 350-800 bones on a new and modern bow. But since money is tight and I spent 750 on a lease, 50 bucks on arrows, 60 bucks on a 3d target, and more ongas and liscenes, I would hate to have a bad hunt because I skimped on heads. I am willing to spend a few more bucks to increase my chances at a clean kill. Oh! and I will keep practicing till game day and beyond.
But I think I will just go with a good broadhead this time
okcmco
But I think I will just go with a good broadhead this time
okcmco