Carbon or Aluminum?
#11
RE: Carbon or Aluminum?
I started with wood arrow, went to aluminum for years, tried carbon for a year (about 6 years ago now) and went back to aluminums. I just could not get the consistancy from the carbons and fixed broadheads. I also go through a lot of arrows in a year, and I just can't afford to shoot carbons, or cabon/aluminums.
I use aluminums on all my bows, they shoot better for me and are cheaper. Even the plain old all green XX75 gamegetters.
Pictured are $30/dz gamegetters and legacy by easton shot from my longbow:
I use aluminums on all my bows, they shoot better for me and are cheaper. Even the plain old all green XX75 gamegetters.
Pictured are $30/dz gamegetters and legacy by easton shot from my longbow:
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: Carbon or Aluminum?
I started with carbons, Nitro Stingers, the tapered ones. Then I tried some aluminums because I'm cheap. I have tried several other brands of carbons, all in the 50-80 per dozen range. I went back to aluminums. Basically ditto on everything Arthur said. If decided to shoot carbons again it would most likely be the Arrow Dynamics tapered arrows again. The shot really well with fixed blades for me. However they are stiffer than all get out, especially with my set up.
As far as bending or breaking arrows, if you take care of your arrows like you should it shouldn't be an issue with either kind. I have never bent an aluminum unless I glanced it off the side of something. And the same shot would have broke a carbon into two or three pieces. I have broke more carbons than I have bent aluminums. I get scared when I hear people talking about hitting things with carbons and then using them again. If glance a carbon off from something, put it thru a board and have to wiggle it out or hit something hard you should just pitch the arrow or use it for a tamoto stake. Carbons can break inside where you can't see it, if you even bother to look, most don't. This is usually what happens when they warp at the tip. I have seen enough pictures on the net of people with carbons stuck in thier hands to take that risk. If I question my arrows are bad, I get rid of them, carbon or aluminum.
As far as trajectory being much better between the two, unless you are shooting really heavy aluminums and switch to really light carbons I bet the difference is not as great as you think it is. I can change more than 100 grns in arrow weight and not have to change my pins at 20 and 30 yards. Now at 40, 50 and 60 it does make a difference. But I shoot at known distances so speed really doesn't matter as long as my sight is set up correctly.
Plus for me aluminums are much easier to work with and tune. I can build them with a tubing cutter some hot melt glue and a gas range. And if an insert is off when I spin test them I just heat it up and fix it. Or if I want to shorten my arrows to stiffen them up. And the larger diameter is easier to get clearance on certain rests.
Paul
As far as bending or breaking arrows, if you take care of your arrows like you should it shouldn't be an issue with either kind. I have never bent an aluminum unless I glanced it off the side of something. And the same shot would have broke a carbon into two or three pieces. I have broke more carbons than I have bent aluminums. I get scared when I hear people talking about hitting things with carbons and then using them again. If glance a carbon off from something, put it thru a board and have to wiggle it out or hit something hard you should just pitch the arrow or use it for a tamoto stake. Carbons can break inside where you can't see it, if you even bother to look, most don't. This is usually what happens when they warp at the tip. I have seen enough pictures on the net of people with carbons stuck in thier hands to take that risk. If I question my arrows are bad, I get rid of them, carbon or aluminum.
As far as trajectory being much better between the two, unless you are shooting really heavy aluminums and switch to really light carbons I bet the difference is not as great as you think it is. I can change more than 100 grns in arrow weight and not have to change my pins at 20 and 30 yards. Now at 40, 50 and 60 it does make a difference. But I shoot at known distances so speed really doesn't matter as long as my sight is set up correctly.
Plus for me aluminums are much easier to work with and tune. I can build them with a tubing cutter some hot melt glue and a gas range. And if an insert is off when I spin test them I just heat it up and fix it. Or if I want to shorten my arrows to stiffen them up. And the larger diameter is easier to get clearance on certain rests.
Paul
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,236
RE: Carbon or Aluminum?
Carbons breaking has certainly not been my experience, glad to say. We don't usually hit hard objects with them though. The worst case for us would be deflecting one off the back of a lifesize deer target, you know the slap that makes aluminum shooters cringe, because they know that they just ruined an arrow.
I must add that my brother shot a buck this past season with an Easton Axis and the buck snapped the arrow off when it rolled to it's death. The break was clean as a whistle with no splinters whatsoever. I have always worried about carbon splinters in the meat. This eased my mind.
I must add that my brother shot a buck this past season with an Easton Axis and the buck snapped the arrow off when it rolled to it's death. The break was clean as a whistle with no splinters whatsoever. I have always worried about carbon splinters in the meat. This eased my mind.
#15
RE: Carbon or Aluminum?
Long time ago I shot wood arrows from a fibreglass recurve. 20 years later I started bowhunting & got alluminum arrows. They tried getting me to buy carbons at the shop but after looking at a bunch & reading the specs not many carbons aproach alluminum straightness & since that seemed important I decided agin them. Then I started making my own & was again thinking about carbon but again looking at the specs found I could buy easton fall or gold stalkers for $20 a dozen that are as straight as most carbons. I use them for practice mostly but in a pinch have taken several deer with them. It seems I only bend or break them hunting for the most part & since I can get about 3 or 4 dozen for the price of a dozen carbons I cant see them saving me money. I have 4 in my quiver right now that have been thru a deer or 2 & theyre just fine.
I guess I should add that I dont mind & actually like building them. Maybe I'd think different if I wanted to just buy & shoot but thats not me.
If it works I see no reason to fix it.
I guess I should add that I dont mind & actually like building them. Maybe I'd think different if I wanted to just buy & shoot but thats not me.
If it works I see no reason to fix it.