Mechanical Broadheads
#11
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
A 32" draw and a 28 1/2" arrow? I don't get it.
Speed at the expense of safety though. I quit using overdraws one windy daywhen the arrowblew off the rest at full draw, bounced over the safety lip and wedged itself between the string and my wrist. [:-]
#12
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
Many people don't realize that you mightneed to tune mechanicals as well. I was shooting a two blade mechanical w/ a 2" cut at my foam target and the arrows kept sailing on me. When I went to my fixed blades, they flew great. Don't assume that just because you have a mechanical they will fly like your field tips. Practice with them just in case. I'm glad I did or I would have missed a buck. Even mechanicals have blades that slightly portrude and when you are shooting todays high speed bows anything can happen when you introduce aerodynamics. Practice Practice and Practice some more....
#13
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
ORIGINAL: CamoCop
oh, i forgot to mention my set up...i dunno if this would have an effect on the destruction of the mechanical broad heads. i am shooting a 28 1/2" carbon arrow at approximately 320 fps. i shoot a jennings buckmaster /w a 3 1/2" overdraw /w a 32" drawlength at 80 pounds pull.
oh, i forgot to mention my set up...i dunno if this would have an effect on the destruction of the mechanical broad heads. i am shooting a 28 1/2" carbon arrow at approximately 320 fps. i shoot a jennings buckmaster /w a 3 1/2" overdraw /w a 32" drawlength at 80 pounds pull.
#14
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 519
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
ORIGINAL:
but the mechanicals do not get the penatration alot of times because so much is used in the opening of the head!
but the mechanicals do not get the penatration alot of times because so much is used in the opening of the head!
Three things relate to poor penetration when using mechanicals: improper shot placement, a bow (with low Kenetic Energy)that doesn't have what it takes to get the job done in the first place and aset-up that isn't tuned properly.
CamoCop,
There is no one perfect arrow for everybody, just as there is no one perfect broadhead for everybody. Match your broadhead with your set-up period. You obviously have enough KE to use mechanicals that require more KE due to their larger cutting diameter, not because they use more KE to open blades. If you have more KE than most bow hunters it doesn't make since to use the same size broadhead as they are...that is a waste of all that good, hard to find KE. Put that higher level of KE to work for you and use a larger cutting diameter blade; which will in turn give you other advantages. Mechanicals with larger cutting diameter blades have their place and they really shine when you have higher levels of KE to push them cleaning through your target.
Yes...there are some mechanicals that are junk, just as there are some fixed blade broadheads that are junk. It's your job to research and test to find what mechanicals will hold up. Don't go out and buy a cheap set of mechanicals with thin blades and expect them to perform to your standards. Take as much time picking out a good solid mechanical as people do picking out a good solid fixed blade.
Tune your bow just as precisely as with any other broadhead. Less tuning was never a reason I went with mechanical broadheads. Some may even put a fixed blade broadhead on to double check tunning, then reinstall their mechanicals and check point of impact with them also. Do whatever it takes to make sure your bow is tuned to the best of it's ability.
If you want to get real technical take your set-up and shoot it through a chronograph at various ranges like I did. Once you get a speed that takes your KE down below55 ft pounds of KE at target impact distance, then you have found your max safe effective range of proper penetration for that broadhead. You can get away with less than55 ft pounds of KE, but55 is the number I have made my personal lower level to help compensate for shots that areless thanperfect. Keep in mind this is not 55 ft pounds of KE from the bow through a chrono at 10 feet, but at the distance the kill will be made.
If your skills and accuracy match the range that gave you a KE number above 55,then that is your max distance for taking a kill shot. If you find your KE level remains much higher than your accuracy level then obviously bring your max kill range back to where your accuracy falls into acceptable levelsunder field environmental conditions. I'm certain that with your set-up you will find that your accuracy will be the limiting factor for distance and penetration, not that the mechanicals will be low on KE to gain the required penetration. If you like to take the time to test and get the most you can out of your set-up then have at it. Many peopledon't havethe time, equipmentor patience to testand tune, but if you do it sure gives you a higher level of confidence when you go to release your arrow.
CamoCop, I will recommend that you be consistant in all you do and take a second thought about using lightweight arrows as it appears you may be doing. Too heavy is bad and too light is bad. However, there is a sweet spot there that will balance speed, trajectory and momentum all in one arrow weight that matches your set-up. It's that challenge alone that gives us something to do in the off season...have fun in all your tuning and refining of your gear, for me that is as much as the game as shooting the animal.
#15
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
Wis Bow Hunter,
How many deer have you killed with Mechanical heads? None, I'm guessing. I'll put my kill percentage with Mechanical heads against yours with whatever you're useing for the past 5 years. You in?
How many deer have you killed with Mechanical heads? None, I'm guessing. I'll put my kill percentage with Mechanical heads against yours with whatever you're useing for the past 5 years. You in?
#17
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
ORIGINAL: The Lone Wolf
Wis Bow Hunter,
How many deer have you killed with Mechanical heads? None, I'm guessing. I'll put my kill percentage with Mechanical heads against yours with whatever you're useing for the past 5 years. You in?
Wis Bow Hunter,
How many deer have you killed with Mechanical heads? None, I'm guessing. I'll put my kill percentage with Mechanical heads against yours with whatever you're useing for the past 5 years. You in?
#18
RE: Mechanical Broadheads
ORIGINAL: The Rev
I question those stats as a former owner of a Jennings buckmaster, good shooting bows, but certainly not that fast, the IBO isn't even 320, chroned the best I could get out of mine was 270... Regardless to answer your question. If your intent on shooting mech. broadhead, go with the grim reaper. I've used them, they are tough strong, and consistant.
ORIGINAL: CamoCop
oh, i forgot to mention my set up...i dunno if this would have an effect on the destruction of the mechanical broad heads. i am shooting a 28 1/2" carbon arrow at approximately 320 fps. i shoot a jennings buckmaster /w a 3 1/2" overdraw /w a 32" drawlength at 80 pounds pull.
oh, i forgot to mention my set up...i dunno if this would have an effect on the destruction of the mechanical broad heads. i am shooting a 28 1/2" carbon arrow at approximately 320 fps. i shoot a jennings buckmaster /w a 3 1/2" overdraw /w a 32" drawlength at 80 pounds pull.
Rev, when i shot through the chrono, i could never get a consistant reading. it always ranges from 310 to 322 fps.