Bees

are your broadheads grouping together or are they just all over the place?

At any rate www.eastonarchery.com downlaod the tuning guide and that might explain things better than I..

early in

Hi statjunk, you'r not unique, I used to have that same problem until Iquit practiceing with field points! I practice with what I'm going to be hunting with, broadheads. I use the three blade Muzzy 100 grain and get real nice groups.You wear out targets faster but I believe it's worth the expense. I push the shaft through the target, carefully unscrew the broadhead then pull the shaft out doing as little damage to your target as possible. I use theBlock.

5 shot

http://www.broadheadtests.com/TUNING.html
read through my link. It should help you get on the right track.

statjunk

Thanks for the info. Unfortunetly I am heading up north today. I am a bit nervous and I hope that if and when the time comes that I can pull off a good shot. I am going to limit my shots to about 15 yards. Wish me luck.

Tom

BGfisher

For an easier way to spin-test arrows you can roll them across any flat, smooth surface, such as a coffee table, that is short enough to allow the point and fletching to hang off the end. Just roll the arrows and see if there is any wobble in the point or nock end.
If both wobble it's probably an inferior arrow (not stright). If only the broadhead wobbles then it's not in proper alignment with the shaft. You can try different remedies to get them right. Sometimes a rubber O-ring can help. Or a nylon washer made for this. Try different heads on different arrows. Remember, you only have to get a couple right. You don't need the whole dozen.

I did notice from your signature that you are shooting 350's. These are probably a little sitff for your setup, but really shouldn't havge that much effect on grouping ability. I shoot GT Pro 22's, with a .300 spine as low as 52# with very good results, and these I could shoot at about 75#. Just goes to show that stiffer is better (wish my wife would say that).

The other guys have mentioned it may be form related. It's true, and probably grip. Over on www.bowsite.com there is a good tutorial about how to properly grip (NOT) a bow. Look under "features/practical_bowhunter/get a grip. It has pictures and all and is by far a lot easier than trying to explain it all.
Shooting an open hand is not good either. To hold your hand open involved tightening muscles in the hand and forearm, which should be as totally relaxed as possible. And many people have a tendency to start grabbing the bow upon release if they shoot an open hand. Read what I told ya about GRIP.