Mike Salyards

Now that it's clean, what is your go to barrel treatment, protectant?

hardcastonly

too be fair, I always carefully clean my rifle bores and repeatedly swab the bores after carefully cleaning the bores with a dripping wet ,
repeatedly soaked series of moly soaked swabs
a squeaky clean bore repeatedly swabbed with moly builds a micro surface like greased glass thats perfect for cast bullet use.
Ive used the process on rifles shooting jacketed, cast and black powder, loadings,
regardless of rifle type, theres always been a noticeable improvement in ease of cleaning and usually accuracy,
after several repetitive cleaning and swabbing sessions.
because black powder is corrosive Id follow the moly with a good gun oil on a swab,
to prevent moisture reaching the bore surface (I do that with all rifles)


http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrica...cteristics.htm
Moly exists as microscopic hexagonal crystal platelets Several molecules make up one of these platelets. A single molecule of Moly contains two sulfur atoms and one molybdenum atom. Moly platelets are attracted to metal surfaces. This attraction and the force of moving surfaces in contact, rubbing across one another provide the necessary thermochemical reaction necessary for Moly to form an overlapping protective coating like armor on the rifle bore surface, This protective armor coating has a number of properties that are very beneficial for your rifles bore surface



The Moly platelets that make up the protective layers on your bore wall surfaces slide across one another very easily. Instead of metal rubbing against metal, you have Moly platelets moving across one another protecting and lubricating the bore to projectile surface contact

This coating effectively fills in the microscopic pores that cover the surface of all micro bore imperfections making them smoother. By filling in the craters and pores Moly improves this seal

This overlapping coating of Moly also gives protection against loading (perpendicular) forces. The high pressures that occur between these moving surfaces that tend to squeeze normal lubricants out.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...41/#post-84978

Idaholewis

I use to use the newer version of Rem Oil in the pump spray bottle, I had really good luck with it, But I decided to try something different in my Guns, for no other reason than i wanted to, I had GREAT luck with this Pump spray Rem Oil in my Guns. I stil use it on my Steel Bullet molds etc. it is GOOD Stuff, i tested Sidelock Barrels that i had cleaned, and treated with this stuff, and had sat under my Bed for over a Year, They had Zero signs of Rust. Again, Good stuff in my opinion


I did some pretty extensive research on Oils for my Guns, I watched some Corrosion tests, and Decided to go with this Hoppes Elite T3, Watching a YouTube video test of Gun oils in Salt Spray This Hoppes Elite T3 did STELLAR! I have been using it for about 6 months or so now? I REALLY Like this stuff! This is a VERY Different Oil than the Rem Pump Spray stuff, The Rem Oil stuff i used would eventually Dry on the Surface, This new Hoppes T3 Stays the Same, 6 Months later it stil looks like Fresh Clean Oil on the Surface, I recently ran Fresh patches down my Rifle Bores to check on them? No discoloring of patches, They look just like they Did when i put them away. I like this Hoppes T3 Oil Better than my Old Pump Spray Rem Oil, So Far anyway
https://www.hoppes.com/elite/elite-gun-oil-with-t3

sabotloader

After doing this for way to many years - I reduced it to a very simple method to clean the bore that works AWESOME!





Makes no difference to me whether it is BP & Subs or BH.

It seems everybody develops their own method....

One thing that I would highly suggest - do not use any petroleum products in the bore. Montana Ex-treme is a fully synthetic oil.

Mike Salyards

Do you swab it out before you shoot?

Idaholewis

Fyrstyk54

Idaholewis: The next time you are about to fire off the 209 primer, try running a dry patch down the bore and leave it there with the ram rod. The black soot from the primer, and any remaining oil in the breech will be transferred to the patch for easy removal. Not much different from your method, but it has worker for me and I feel confident that all of the oil residue has been picked up. Give it a try to see if you like the results.

BarnesAddict

I agree 100% on the Montana. I used it exclusively in the BP Xpress and also now in my custom.

I will say...……… I'm now using another part of your methods..... WINDEX w/ammonia D.
I found the first time cleaning my muzzle brake was a complete PITA. I'm friends with the designer/builder, so I asked him about the best way to clean the brake.
"Windex Original. Just spray the brake, let it set for 30sec or so, then continue to spray the brake clean. Dry and lubricate the brake well".
Works perfectly and just that easy