.45 GM caplock & conicals
#11
#12
That's great Mike. Thank you. It looks like the 80gr load will be more than enough for elk and bear. Even at a longer range than i'd take. At a max of 75 yds 70gr might be enough. 1200lb of energy is enough for elk and bear. 70gr would have that easily.
I need to tame the recoil a bit though. I'm thinking a thin shoulder pad will be enough.
I need to tame the recoil a bit though. I'm thinking a thin shoulder pad will be enough.
Last edited by Muley Hunter; 06-25-2017 at 08:39 AM.
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,184
I've been playing with shooting big 405 gr conicals out of my GM 1:30 twist barrel. I've been trying paper patched bullets and bare conicals. After several outings I've determined that the paper patched bullets do not shoot as well as the bare lubed ones. In fact group size using the bare bullets are about half the size of the PP bullets.
The target below is the best PP group shot followed by the bare bullets' group. Other covered holes are from other PP tries.
The target below is the best PP group shot followed by the bare bullets' group. Other covered holes are from other PP tries.
If your taking the 45-70 down to get them to go naked your not sizing down much. but sizing down to get them to paper patch then they are probably finning a bit too. Remember I was pretty sure that the results were not going to be favorable.
The best results are from paper patching a bullet that falls from the mould very close to what you need. You need a bullet that is .446 to .448 as a finished size ready to shoot. So you need a bullet that is .442 or .443. The paper with two wraps should add about .006 so that gives you a finished size of .448 to .449 I wold lean to the .448 but that is me.
I use a RCBS 11mm bullet. It drops out at .446 which is .004 too big but I wrap them with two wraps of 9# onion skin. Then I size again at .446 they are a bit on the small side but my gun loves them.A guy would be okay with .448 too. My bullets are also hardened a bit for better results.
This method is vastly different than what I believe your doing. Taking a .459 bullet down to .443 is a LONG way to size down and really affects the bullets.
If your willing to cover the cost of some shipping I will send you some of mine to test. Do you have pyrodex P?
The thing is the barrel has to be clean of all lead. A barrel that is shot a few times with lead, then paper, then lead again isn't going to work. Even barrels with plastic in them hurts accuracy with paper patched bullets.
I have seen a lot of barrels that have a build up of lead. That build up of lead continues to build over time until the rifle is no longer shooting like it was. Plastic will do the same. I have bought a few inlines that were coated with plastic on the inside.
A barrel that is shooting paper patched bullets is in my opinion more consistent. No lead build up and no plastic build up.
I too have never seen a rifle shoot poorer with paper patched that is done the way I do it.
#14
Ron after the last shooting session I gave the rifle a good scrubbing to make sure I got all the leading out of the rifling. I'm hoping your bullets shoot well for me. If they do I will definitely be buying an 11mm bullet mold like the one you have.
I do have some plastic solvent also that I guess it wouldn't hurt to run down the bore because I was shooting saboted XTPs out of it.
I do have some plastic solvent also that I guess it wouldn't hurt to run down the bore because I was shooting saboted XTPs out of it.
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,184
Great make sure it is pristine when you shoot the paper. If it tares then the test is bad. The friend of mine swears that using a veggy wad gives more accuracy than the wool wads. If you have the veggy wads try them too. I sent you 20 bullets to try. I got them sent today.