1874sharpsshooter

I often hear people either asking what would be the best load or looking for recommendations on the best load for their gun. Usually we offer suggestions on what shoots good for us or what we use in a similar model gun but we all admit that each gun is different and each person usually needs to work up their own best load. Yet how often do we think about what the term "best load "means .A long time back I adopted Doc' s definition of best load . I think he is right on . Here's the definition of "best load"

I quote

"A "Best Load" is an entirely subjective matter. Its determination largely depends on the needs and whims of a particular shooter. So the information that follows constitutes my personal opinion as to what is a "Best Load". It may differ substantially from yours.

The loads I am interested in are those that are safe for the rifle and system they are used in, are easy to perform, meaning that they are quick to load and get ready to fire, are as accurate as needed for the game hunted, and powerful enough that they will penetrate and kill game animals by multi-system tissue destruction without problem. I want my chosen target animal to die suddenly, without time to escape or turn on me, or even think about it.

I have chosen loads that are accurate, are easy to clean up after, deposit minimal amounts of lead or plastic in the barrel, don’t kick too hard or foul the barrel badly and are effective at 100-200 yards range on deer-size or larger big game."

End of quote . So there are the characteristics of a " best load"

falcon

Yep, works for me.

cayugad

Very well written Doc...

I think depending on the person and where he lives and what he hunts makes a huge difference. For instance I am a short range hunter in thick woods. Also the game is deer sized. So I do not need a slam bam powder charge, or an expensive bullet. But if I were hunting out west or across open fields, I might think very different of what is the best load for me.

freebirdfb

That is a proper description. I agree with Cayugad as well. In my neck of the woods, I have never killed a deer over 75-80 yards, but if I moved to he woodline I could potentially shoot into a field which could extend target range.

Anyways, if a target kill zone is the size of a 6" circle there is nothing wrong with a 3-4" group that can effectivly kill deer sized game at the ranges for your location back with enough trigger time to achieve consistent groups. On the other hand, if we are shooting at squirrels then we need a group that is much smaller, but at closer ranges. So best load boils down to proper load matched to proper game.

I like many of us can obsess about the smallest sized shot groups, but we need to draw the line (so to speak) and accept that there is a time to accept good enough for our intended purpose.

TNHagies

I think when we speak of accuracy, cayugad's statement is very true. I've had guys laugh at me at deer camp for using a ML all year long. They brag about their 300 H&H or their semi-auto and I always ask them "How far can you shoot and how many times in the last 10 years have you shot more than once at a deer?" Generally the response is "75 yards max and maybe once or twice" People then begin to realize that muzzleloaders really are not a handicap as some originally think.

Just about every ML I've ever had my hands on, I can load 80 grains of any powder and any 300g bullet and have a load that will be accurate enough out to 75 yards. Accuracy is relative in my opinion.

drcollins1

I was curious if anyone could give me some advice? My dad has a cva optima and loves the powerbelt bullets in 295 gr. loads 100 gr. triple seven pellets, this is a relatively new gun and I cant get it to group up?....the group will end up being about the size of a paper plate at 100 yds. I was wanting to know if someone has had issues similar and could offer me a possible power belt, bullet that will work the best in the cva optima.?..

edmehlig

I agree with what everyone has said so far. Like most that have posted my shots are generally under 75yds with a long shot being around 90. The longest shot was about 150yds with my ML, but I was extremly lucky and I knew where my rifle would shoot if I did my part.

With that said once you sighted in your rifle and get your group to be as small as possible, start shooting off the bench to see where your true maximum range would be. I remember when my ex-brother-in-law and I was shooting one day and he said "I can't see how guys can miss a deer at 100 yds with a zeroed in scoped rifle" I told him to get off the rest, stand up and lets see you hit that target never mind the bullseye. Well to say the least he never did shoot as he could not hold that rifle steady enough.

Josmund

Generally speaking, people here would advise against PB's and against Pellets.

PB's have a reputation of being very accurate but can't be pushed too hard. I'm not sure how you can back down some while shooting pellets.

The long term solution is to switch to loose powder and use a saboted bullet. If committed to the PB's switch to loose powder, start at 80 grains and move up until you find the sweet spot.

Of course you've checked the bases and rings, etc. Right?

nchawkeye

He is making two mistakes, the biggest is using pellets...With a muzzleloader you are handloading, using loose powder allows you to tailor the charge to the gun...

Here is a buddy's Optima I sighted in for him a couple of years ago...I ended up with 80grs FFF Goex with a Hornady .429 XTP in 300gr inside a Harvester plain green sabot....

drcollins1

yes, originally we had the base and ring problem, went and bought him some new ones, had them put on, and at 50yds. I seemed to do ok with the group, backed to 100, and no bigger than a paper plate?. if I switch to loose powder, will the 209 primer work ok with loose powder? I used to use loose powder and changed to the triple seven pellets in my Remington they work excellent, and I assumed it would in dads as well. this is why I started him on the pellets. I greatly appreciate all your assistance