Triple Se7en

" A pore is a pore regardless of size , and if moisture and a corrosive agent enter that pore then galvanic cell corrosion will result."
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Kevin

Unless you are seasoning a " rifled" frying pan -- then subjecting it to massive weather changes in your family kitchen, then your theory should not apply here.

Also, the corrosion that' s being " inhibited" on the seasoned frying pan is " surface determent" ... again it does not apply to moisture forming underneath. Bore butter " seasoning' will not absorb moisture. Every microspec of your riflings & bore need to be completely dry before you apply the butter -- then every microspec of your rifling better be lathered for it to provide serviceable protection providing you don' t subject the rifle to any moderate temperature & humidity changes.

It is so much simpler to apply a good gun oil with " rust prevention" written on the front label -- then stand-up the rifle inside your gun safe -- then let the natural flow of the gun oil enter every cavity/pore of your rifling that you accidently missed with your patches.

Bore butter " inhibiting" does not " flow" when you place your rifle bore-side up in the gun safe...rust " preventing" gun oils do. Use the butter for patch or conical lube. If you only use sabot/bullets... throw it in the garbage.

Wolfhound76

I tried the seasoning bit once. I ended up with rust in the barrel. IMO it does not work as advertised. I prefer to use a good gun oil and make sure that the barrel is clean and dry before hunting with it.

herman

The first time i shot a muzzleloader was back in the 40" s,I have used oil,homemade lard,crisco,bore butter (probably crisco with a little food coloring).I would think that if you used anything to coat the barrel after shooting and shoot the rifle afterwards you are seasoning the barrel to some extent.
If T/C didn' t think much of the idea,I don' t see why they would put in their manual,telling you how to do it and how to clean it
T/C quote: The #13 bore cleaner will remove only the surface coating of natural lube not the lube which has impregnated the pores of the steel.
I would say do whatever you think works for you.

RandyWakeman

Just follow the money. Surprised that Knight, that does not sell it, does not mention it?

Oxyoke comes up with even more stunning news:
Q: Can I use Wonder Lube 1000 Plus on sabots and will this improve the accuracy and increase the number of rounds between cleaning?
A: Yes. Sabot accuracy will improve even more if a Wonder Wad is placed between the powder and the sabot.



Anybody ever ask, " like how?"

Underclocked

I absolutely, positively, 100% agree with Herman.

kevin1

Gents ,
use or don' t use whatever you care to . I like the product , have always had good results , and will continue to use it . I' ve stated my reasoning for using it based on known metallurgical facts , and stick by it . If petro gun oil , WD-40 , or swabbing with Parkay work for you then go with what works .

eldeguello

I have to concur with Randy on this one! After reading an article on this subject by Ross Seyfried in RIFLE Magazine, I decided to try it to see if I could get the " miraculous" , fouling-free shooting he said he gets with actual black powder. I have been shooting muzzleloaders since around 1954, and had always been bothered by the fouling problem, despite always using plain boiling water to clean my guns, and a product like Sheath or Break-Free for after-cleaning protection. I followed Seyfried' s published instructions EXACTLY, and almost ruined two prized barrels (one a Bill Large, made of chrome-moly steel, the other a Green River Rifle Works .577" ) due to after-rusting which occurred when Bore Butter was used as a preservative! I ABSOLUTELY warn EVERYONE against expecting Bore Butter to protect a clean, modern steel barrel!! I don' t know if it would work OK in a " soft-iron" type barrel of the old-time muzzleloader type, but would not take a chance on it !!

No more " seasoning" for me!!

Wolfhound76

You read your Knight manual? Check the very bottom of your inside back cover.

bugs11

I am compelled to throw my two cents into the pot.

Last Sat. I discussed MLers with an older gentleman whilst standing in line for a controlled hunt deer license application. He stated that one should clean MLers with room temperature water, rinse with hot water and run patches until dry, then use light coating of modern rust preventive. His exact words were “They’ve discovered cleaning with hot water…”; I didn’t ask him who they were. (I assumed he was talking about Randy et al.) He said that washing with hot water forced moisture into the pores of the steel and caused latent rust (as in the day after a patch would show rust).

Now I’ve used nothing but Bore Butter in my round ball shooter and I have had a little rust in the barrel the day after cleaning, but then I was washing and rinsing with hot water after a days hunt and maybe I wasn’t getting the barrel completely dry. And I have to admit I never have done anything to specifically “season” the barrel. I just started using BB after a buddy gave me tube, before that I used WD-40. About the only thing I’ve ever seasoned is a pie iron (cast iron) I got for fathers day with cooking oil and that worked like a charm.

eldeguello

NO, IT DOES NOT! I have cleaned my rifles with 2 quarts of boiling water poured through the bore, followed by three or four dry patches, then used Break-Free or Birchwood casey Sheath as a bore preservative since 1967. NO ML barrel treated this way has ever rusted! The only time I had a rust problem was when I substituted Bore Butter for Break-Free or Sheath. And, I have found that that T/C No. 13 " bore cleaner" doesn' t get a bore clean. Boiling water does. Boiling water was the Mountain Man' s Choice to clean Hawken rifles! But they used bear' s oil or Sperm oil for a preservative. Sperm oil is great for this purpose, if you can find some! I once had a small bottle of the stuff from a 19th century cache of it!!